In our quest to educate people about all the best face oils, passionfruit seed oil hits the spotlight today!
Extracted from the seeds of the passion fruit, maracuja oil is a luxurious and beneficial oil to use on your face. It's rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins, which protect the skin from the damage of free radicals. Its distinctive characteristic is its capacity to provide deep moisturization without leaving the skin oily, making it excellent for all skin types.
The passion flower is a vine native to South America, celebrated for its delicious fruit. The name "passionfruit" doesn't stem from romantic connotations but from the flower's symbolism and history in colonialism.
In the 16th century, Spanish Christian missionaries adopted the passion flower as a symbol to explain the Passion of Christ to indigenous people, with various parts of the flower representing elements of the crucifixion story, such as the crown of thorns and the five wounds.
"Maracuja" comes from the Tupi-Guarani language, spoken by the Indigenous People of Brazil. The term translates roughly to "food prepared from the fruit," reflecting its cultural significance and widespread use in South American cuisine and traditional medicine long before it captivated global audiences.
Passionfruit's journey from a tropical vine to a global culinary and skincare sensation speaks to its versatility and appeal. Its fruit, bursting with a tangy sweetness, has seduced palates worldwide, while the oil extracted from its seeds has quietly carved a niche in the beauty industry.
Maracuja oil, as it's known, stands out not just for its moisturizing abilities but for retaining the delicate, fruity scent of the passionfruit itself—a rarity among plant-based oils. This characteristic fragrance, combined with the oil's fatty acids and antioxidants, makes it a great choice for those seeking to nourish their skin naturally.
The trivia surrounding passionfruit extends to its botanical peculiarities. Its vine can grow to astonishing lengths in just a single season. The diversity within the passionfruit species, with over 500 varieties, showcases a range of flavours and uses.
Passiflora edulis seed oil and Passiflora incarnata seed oil are derived from the seeds of different species of the passionflower plant. They share similarities in their composition and benefits.
These oils are celebrated for their rich content of essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic, which contributes to their moisturizing and healing properties. Both are lightweight and easily absorbed. They provide moisture without leaving a greasy residue, promoting a healthy scalp and stronger, more elastic hair. Additionally, the antioxidant properties in both oils help protect the skin and scalp from environmental stressors.
Despite being sourced from different species, Passiflora edulis and Passiflora incarnata seed oils offer comparable benefits, making them versatile and valuable additions to skincare and haircare routines.
Maracuja oil protects the skin from free radicals. Antioxidants work tirelessly to brighten the skin and ward off the signs of aging.
We find maracuja oil a game-changer for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Its non-comedogenic nature means it won't clog pores, making it a safe and effective facial oil for all skin types.
When applied to the face, maracuja oil provides deep moisturization without greasiness. This is particularly beneficial for those of us with dry skin, as it locks in moisture and nourishes the skin at a cellular level. But it's not just for dry skin – even if your skin is oily, you'll find that maracuja oil balances sebum production, preventing that unwanted shiny look.
Beyond its moisturizing benefits, maracuja oil is also known for its anti-aging properties. It works to restore the skin's barrier, reducing the visible signs of aging and helping your skin glow.
The benefits of maracuja, particularly for skin health, are far-reaching. It's not just about a brighter, more youthful complexion. The oil's nourishing properties extend to stronger nails and healthier scalp, offering an all-round solution for beauty care.
Maracuja oil is notable for its high concentration of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid with skin-healing properties. The approximate percentages of its main fatty acids are:
Maracuja oil is also rich in phytochemicals and vitamins that provide additional skin benefits.
It's important to note that the specific percentages can vary due to factors like the oil's source, extraction method, and purity. However, the high linoleic acid content combined with the presence of beneficial phytochemicals makes maracuja oil an excellent choice for nourishing and protecting the skin.
Maracuja oil retains some of the delightful, fruity scent of passion fruit. This characteristic sets it apart from many other seed-extracted oils, which often lose their plant's original aroma during the extraction process.
This unique fragrance retention can be attributed to the gentle, cold-press extraction method which preserves the oil's nutritional profile and its volatile compounds, including those responsible for its aromatic qualities. Additionally, passion fruit seeds contain a higher concentration of these aromatic compounds than seeds of other plants, contributing to the oil's distinctive, fruity scent.
The natural fragrance adds an extra sensory experience to the skincare routine, making maracuja oil a favourite for those looking to enjoy the essence of passion fruit along with the oil's skin-nourishing benefits.
Since cold-pressed maracuja oil is a carrier oil and not a concentrated source of volatile compounds, any presence of things like limonene and coumarin, known for their aromatic properties, would be minimal. In higher concentrations in essential oils, these components are linked to skin sensitivity but are unlikely to pose significant risks in the trace amounts possibly found in maracuja oil, making it an unlikely sensitizing agent.
Remember, oils do not directly hydrate the skin! Hydration occurs because moisturization (the addition of lipids into the skin) helps seal in water, preventing its loss, and also improving the health of the skin barrier.
Maracuja oil penetrates the skin deeply, locking in moisture for a hydrated and healthy complexion. It works by improving the skin's moisture barrier, preventing water loss, and maintaining the skin's natural hydration levels. This, in turn, helps to reduce the appearance of dry, flaky skin and promotes a radiant, youthful glow.
Passionfruit seed oil is generally safe for most skin types. If you are particularly prone to allergies or skin reactions, there is a potential increased risk because this oil contains more natural aromatics than other carrier oils. However, as mentioned above, this increased risk is nowhere near what you would experience if using essential oils. This risk may only be theoretical since maracuja is considered a natural, safe, non-irritating ingredient.
If worried, a patch test is straightforward. It involves applying a small amount of Maracuja oil on a discrete area of the skin, like the inside of the wrist or the back of the ear, then waiting 24 to 48 hours to observe any reactions. If any signs of irritation or allergy appear, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.
This oil's ability to balance sebum production and reduce inflammation on the skin makes it an effective solution for acne sufferers. It's not just about controlling breakouts; it's about nurturing your skin back to health.
Maracuja oil's benefits extend beyond acne treatment. We've discovered that regular use on the face can improve the look of scars and dark spots and give your skin a smoother texture. This is the kind of detail that makes a significant difference to your skin's appearance and feel.
Here's a detailed look at how Maracuja oil can help combat acne:
1. Balances Oil Production: Maracuja oil helps keep the skin's oil production in check, preventing clogged pores and subsequent breakouts.
2. Reduces Inflammation: With its anti-inflammatory benefits, Maracuja oil can soothe and calm inflamed skin, reducing redness and discomfort associated with acne.
3. Moisturizes and Protects Skin: A strong skin barrier further helps to prevent and reduce acne.
Key to maracuja oil's efficacy are essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid. These crucial nutrients nourish the skin, enhancing its elasticity and firmness.
The result? A reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, hallmarks of aging skin. Additionally, these essential fatty acids contribute to the maintenance of skin hydration and barrier function, ensuring your skin feels as good as it looks.
We've found that regular use of this oil can dramatically improve skin texture and tone. The skin appears smoother, more radiant, and overall healthier. This combination of qualities makes maracuja oil instrumental in achieving that elusive, youthful-looking skin.
Harnessing the power of maracuja oil for facial cleansing can effectively dissolve excess sebum and impurities, making it an ideal solution for balancing oil production in the T-zone. This lightweight and non-greasy oil is suitable for all skin types.
Maracuja oil is an excellent balancing oil when used as part of the oil-cleansing process. That, and the luxurious aroma, is what won it the spot on our list of 10 best cleansing oils. That's also why it's made it's way into our collection of oil cleansers and balms.
Its hydrating properties help to moisturize dry scalp, alleviating issues like dandruff and promoting a healthier scalp environment. The oil's lightweight nature ensures that it nourishes the hair without weighing it down or leaving it greasy, making it ideal for all hair types.
The linoleic acid found in maracuja oil can aid in improving hair strength and elasticity, reducing breakage. By penetrating the hair follicles, it helps to rejuvenate and protect hair strands from environmental stressors, leading to shinier, more manageable hair. This makes maracuja oil a valuable addition to hair care routines, offering a natural solution for maintaining healthy, vibrant hair and scalp.
The farming and production of maracuja oil supports sustainable practices in the Amazon, contributing to responsible harvesting and offering an essential source of income for local communities. It's fantastic to see how the beauty industry's love for this oil is driving ethical and environmentally conscious practices.
Passionfruit seed oil production encourages responsible handling of the Amazon region's rich biodiversity. By fostering an environment where sustainable practices are encouraged, we're seeing a key impact on the ecosystem. The oil's harvest doesn't involve deforestation or habitat destruction, preserving the Amazon's unique flora and fauna.
Moreover, the cultivation of passionfruit seeds for oil production contributes greatly to local economies. The revenue generated provides these communities with a viable income source, promoting economic growth and stability. In turn, this aids in reducing poverty and elevating living standards.
If you're looking for 100% pure maracuja oil for your face, your best bet is to shop from a natural ingredient supplier. Do not pay a premium price to a brand that is just repackaging and reselling directly from a distributor.
If you order from a natural ingredient supplier, you can trace back the supply chain to ensure sourcing and you can find the freshest supply available.
Otherwise, you're probably shopping for a more comprehensive product that contains maracuja oil as one of the ingredients -- and many options are out there. Passionfruit seed oil is a key ingredient in the bareLUXE CoreComplex Reveal Blend, which you'll find in our ultra-luxurious, Crystal Infused Polishing Balm.
Yes! It's rich in vitamins and antioxidants, beneficial for all skin types, and it even helps combat signs of aging. It's truly a skin elixir!
We've found that maracuja oil doesn't clog pores. It's non-comedogenic, so it's suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone. It balances oil production without causing congestion, leaving skin nourished and hydrated.
We've found Maracuja oil to be a superfood for the skin. It hydrates, soothes, and brightens, while providing essential vitamins and antioxidants. It's a boon for all skin types, even aiding in anti-aging and acne prevention.
You're tired of breakouts and want a solution. Enter non-comedogenic oils: your new skincare superheroes. They won't clog your pores or cause acne and they are amazing moisturizers and antioxidants.
Whether you've got dry, oily, or combination skin, there's a non-comedogenic oil that's just right for you. Different types of complexions respond differently to oils, but knowing your options is the first step.
Let's debunk some myths, understand the science behind these oils, and help you find the perfect match for your skin type.
Understanding what causes comedones is essential in your skincare journey.
The concept of comedogenicity refers to the ability of a substance, such as an oil or cosmetic ingredient, to clog pores and potentially cause acne or blackheads when applied to the skin.
A comedone is a type of acne lesion that forms when a hair follicle or pore becomes clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria. Comedones are a common feature of acne and can appear as small, raised bumps on the skin.
Both open and closed comedones can become inflamed and develop into more severe forms of acne, such as pustules or cysts, if they become infected or if there is a significant inflammatory response in the area.
Effective skincare routines and acne treatments aim to prevent the formation of comedones and treat existing ones to help clear up acne-prone skin.
The comedogenic rating for oils was not invented by a single individual but rather developed through research and experimentation by dermatologists and scientists. The comedogenicity of oils is often measured and reported using a comedogenicity scale.
One of the most well-known comedogenicity scales is the one attributed to Dr. Albert Kligman in the 1970s. Dr. Kligman was a dermatologist and researcher. He conducted experiments in which various substances, including oils, were applied to the skin to determine their potential to cause acne or other skin issues. Based on the results of these experiments, he assigned comedogenicity ratings to different substances on a scale from 0 to 5, with 0 being non-comedogenic (unlikely to clog pores) and 5 being highly comedogenic (likely to clog pores).
Over the years, other researchers and dermatologists have refined and expanded upon this work, leading to the development of various comedogenicity scales and databases used by the skincare and cosmetics industry to assess the safety of their products.
The comedogenic scale, used to evaluate skincare and cosmetic ingredients for their pore-clogging potential, is a contentious concept for several reasons:
Carrier oils play a vital role in skincare and are commonly used as the base for beauty and wellness products. However, understanding their comedogenicity is a complex and often misunderstood aspect of skincare.
Often oils that are high in oleic acid cause higher rates of pore-clogging. However, it's essential to understand oleic acid itself is not the culprit behind comedogenicity. Instead, the balance between oleic acid and linoleic acid in a carrier oil determines its comedogenic properties.
Oleic acid isn't a "bad" oil, but it needs to be offset with high levels of linoleic acid to ensure you receive the positive benefits and not the side effects. Oils, like argan, that are high in oleic acid AND linoleic acid are the best for your facial skin because the balance gives you the best of both worlds - the oleic acid moisturizes, and the linoleic acid reduces inflammation and acne.
Another consideration is the pore-clogging and inflammatory potential of other fatty acids, such as palmitic acid. In this context, a nuanced understanding of the specific fatty acid composition of carrier oils is crucial for making informed decisions about skincare and product suitability.
Given the nuances of oils and controversies discussed above, it can be hard to write a definitive list of the best non-comedogenic oils for skin care.
As a general rule, if you have oily or acne-prone skin and are worried about clogging pores, your best oil to start with will be squalane. This oil is bioidentical to your own skin oil (with the exception of one hydrogen bond) and it's a purified, fractionated oil. This means the only thing contained in squalane is squalane. You don't have to worry about fatty acid ratios and phytochemicals - just pure, 100% squalane goodness.
The flip side though is that squalane doesn't have all the other benefits that you get when you use carrier oils. These benefits can be huge for the skin and for reducing acne breakouts and improving overall skin health and skin barrier health. These skin benefits include anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-aging effects.
Finding your favourite non comedogenic carrier oil is simple. People with oily skin should stick to oils with a comedogenic rating of 0-1. People with dry and mature skin can expand to oils with a comedogenicity score of 2. Unless you have extremely dry skin or have already used (and loved) oils with a score of 3 or higher, just skip them.
Here's a summary and links to our more in-depth focus article:
Facial Oil Comedogenicity |
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You can incorporate face oil in many different ways! Our non comedogenic oils list is a great place to get started, but knowing how to use them is the next step.
As we've said, if you're particularly worried about clogged pores or sensitivities, start with a single oil. Your best bet would be squalane. You can use this full strength directly on your face. You could also mix a few drops into a moisturizer you already know and love.
After researching options and matching oils to your skin type and skincare concerns, choose any number of them to mix together and make your own topical face oil. Choose the highest quality, organic carrier oils you can find. As a general rule, we recommend a 3-5 facial oil blend when you're getting started. That makes it easy to adjust the ratios of each oil and find a blend that works for you. If you're looking for some tailored suggestions, check out how we designed our CoreComplex™ Oil Blends for inspiration.
The popularity of facial oils has exploded. However, this often requires you to know a bit while reading ingredient labels. Most of your favourite brands will have an oil or two to choose from and you can incorporate them into your skincare routine as described above.
Shopping with a specialist brand, like bareLUXE, will up the ante and have you finding more complex and powerful oil serums for more visible results.
The comedogenicity stakes aren't quite as high when you're oil-cleansing because pore clogging is less likely when the oils are washed away. However, this is a great time to try out other non-comedogenic oils that you might not routinely use on your face.
Castor oil is a great example. Because of it's fatty acid profile, it feels quite thick/substantial on the skin. It's still non-comedogenic and wont clog pores, in fact it helps to cleanse them better than many other oils.
You still need to be judicious and attentive to your skin, even if the oils you're using are unlikely to clog pores. Here are a few myths in need of busting:
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The issue is that so much marketing terminology exists and it can be hard to understand exactly what you really need in your skincare routine.
While the market is flooded with serums, lotions, and potions, there's one hero product that stands out: oil serums. You might be searching keywords like "best face serum for men" or "best face oils for men," but did you know that the pinnacle of these categories is the oil serum for men?
Whether you're sporting a thick beard or prefer a clean-shaven look, I'm here to demystify a concept that’s been making waves in the beauty industry but hasn’t quite caught on with the male demographic = and that’s face oil serums for men.
Before we discuss why oil serums are the best choice for men, it's essential to grasp what sets them apart. We've taken a more general discussion in this other article, but today's focus is on face oils for men.
An oil serum is a potent amalgamation of active ingredients delivered seamlessly through an oil base. This combination allows these elixirs to not only deeply nourish the skin but also tackle specific concerns, from aging to hydration, redness, and uneven skin tone. What makes them so great for men is their versatility when it comes to facial hair.
So why are oil serums a skincare gamechanger in men's skin care and beard care?
Deep Penetration and Efficacy: Traditional serums can be water-based, and while they're beneficial, they don't always penetrate the deeper layers of the skin as effectively as oil serums do. Oil-loving (lipophilic) molecules in oil serums mesh well with the skin’s natural lipid barrier, facilitating deeper absorption and ensuring the active ingredients work their magic more efficiently.
Packed with Potent Actives: While face oils primarily provide moisture, and regular serums offer active ingredients, oil serums combine the best of both worlds. Think of it as a double-action solution that not only hydrates but also actively treats the skin.
Long-lasting Hydration: Men's skin can get dehydrated too, especially after shaving or exposure to harsh weather conditions. Oil serums form a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture for longer periods than their water-based counterparts. They help strengthen and repair broken skin barriers.
Whether you rock a full beard, stubble, or a clean-shaven look, oil serums cater to all.
For the Bearded: Traditional beard oils often focus on the beard hair itself, neglecting the skin underneath. However, the best face oils for men, which are indeed oil serums, nurture both the beard and the skin beneath, ensuring neither is compromised. This is not just a beard serum though, you can use it on the rest of your face too. That's why targeting your skincare goals is possible with one product. There's no harm using a plain beard oil made of simple carrier oils, but upping the game with active ingredients targets visible results.
For the Clean-Shaven: Shaving comes with the risk of stripping away the skin's natural oils, resulting in dryness and irritation throughout the day. The use of an oil serum helps to restore the balance of moisture and nourishment in the skin, soothing the skin after shaving and providing proper moisture and nourishment. This adds comfort and reduces the risk of skin problems such as razor burn or bumps.
Either way, bearded or not, oil serums are the best for men's skin because they're both protective and active in targeting the issues you want to resolve. Smooth out your laugh lines, clear up some acne, and moisturize/protect your beard or shaven skin - all in one!
So, if you're out here googling "best face serum for men" or the "best face oils for men," your search ends with oil serums. Embodying the power of both oils and active ingredients, they’re scientifically formulated to cater to the unique needs of men's skin - bearded or not!
The bareLUXE Approach
We specialize in oil serums and are experts in all the best face oils out there. None of our products are designed for a specific gender and we stay away from scenting agents other than ingredients that serve an active purpose in our oil. In fact, the first award our hero product won was a "Best Skincare for Men" award - and we didn't even know we entered that category 🙈.
All our oil serums use performance botanicals and oil-soluble active ingredients, like bakuchiol and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, to target specific skin types and skincare goals. They work as serums for the face as well as beard oils, if you happen to be bearded. Regardless, they are effective and results-oriented, unlike simple face oils or simple beard oils.
Age Support Bakuchiol Serum Targets: Wrinkles, fine-lines, age spots, acne, dehydration Best for: All skin types Active ingredients: Bakuchiol, Imperata cylindrica extract, Lupeol, Date seed extract |
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Radiant Glow Elevated Vitamin C Oil Targets: Hyperpigmentation, dark spots, dullness Best for: All skin types Active ingredients: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil soluble Vitamin C), Pterocarpus marsupium extract, Licorice root, Bearberry, Lemon peel bioferment |
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Clarity Elevated Perfecting Oil Targets: Imperfections, blemishes, spots, oily skin Best for: Acneic skin, including oily Active ingredients: Ceramides, Willow bark extract, Bakuchiol, Bisabolol, Manuka oil |
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Vitalis Hair & Scalp Strengthening Oil Targets: Hydration, growth, reduced hairfall, strengthening and fortification Best for: Scalps and beards Active ingredients: Hydrolyzed proteins, Barley, Sandalwood, phellodendron extract, Vitamin E Nicotinate, Palmitoyl Isoleucine, Targeted EO blend |
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Northern Rescue Elevated Recovery Oil Targets: Dry skin exposed to harsh environments Best for: Dry skin Active ingredients: Marshmallow extract, Edelweiss extract, Bisabolol |
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bare Essential Elevated Barrier Oil Targets: Sensitive and irritable skin barriers Best for: All skin types and damaged barriers Active ingredients: Bisabolol, Organic Calendula, Aloe & Chamomile |
Regardless of whether you have a beard or not, the best serum for men is an oil serum. The best face oil for men is an oil serum too. It's all semantics and marketing terminology - beard oil, face oil, beard serum, face serum - the list of keywords goes on and on. But keywords are just words - what you want are results!
The bottom line is that an oil serum will target the skin on your entire face, plus a beard if you have one.
Soothing carrier oils will target things like beard dandruff, acne due to facial hair, skin barrier repair and support, environmental protection from free radicals, and they will balance natural sebum levels.
Active ingredients will target the specific skin concerns you have which might include anti-aging, stimulating beard growth, fighting acne, reducing sunspots and hyperpigmentation, etc.
These natural ingredients multi-task to give you the best results overall.
]]>Navigating menopause is a journey, and guess what? Your skin is along for the ride. Whether you're going through surgical menopause at a younger age or experiencing these changes later in life, this guide has got your back.
It's no secret that hormones are the puppet masters here. They can make your skin dry, bring on wrinkles, and—surprise, surprise—even cause acne. But don't sweat it; you've got some control in this situation.
The aim here isn't to chase the fountain of youth or erase every wrinkle. Aging is a part of life and we are pro-healthy skin. There's no shame in wearing your wrinkles like badges of honor. But we're all about giving your skin the TLC it deserves to set you up for a healthier future.
Expert Tip: Oil serums, like our Bakuchiol Age Support Serum , are excellent for menopausal skin because they multitask to tackle hydration, moisture, wrinkles, pigmentation, and acne.
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You will notice a lot of changes to the elasticity of your skin during menopause . The hormonal changes that accompany this phase, specifically the decrease in estrogen levels, are largely responsible.
At the cellular level, menopause heralds some significant changes that impact the health and appearance of your skin. A decline in estrogen levels, has a domino effect on collagen and elastin, the building blocks that keep your skin firm and elastic. This reduction can lead to a loss of skin thickness, making it more susceptible to wrinkles, sagging, and dryness. Additionally, reduced blood flow to the skin can compromise its ability to heal and repair itself, while the diminished activity of sebaceous glands can result in drier skin as the levels of natural oils decrease.
Testosterone production does not increase, but the ratio of the sex steroids changes as all your hormone levels find a new baseline. In the context of menopause, the relative levels of testosterone become more pronounced as estrogen levels decline. This shift sometimes leads to increased sebum production and acne or oily skin. Additionally, elevated levels of androgens can be responsible for the growth of unwanted facial hair during menopause.
Understanding these cellular shifts is crucial for designing a menopausal skin care routine that will work for the specific skin problems you're facing. Menopause skin care is an emerging niche in the skincare world, and it's one that is here to stay. You can mitigate the intensity of these changes with the right care regime.
Starting in the perimenopause period, and as you transition through the whole process, your estrogen levels decrease. The role of hormones in skin changes during menopause is crucial. Here are some effects you might experience:
Dryness: A decline in estrogen levels can hamper your skin's ability to hold onto moisture.
Itchiness: General itching is common, and exceedingly annoying. In fact, itching during menopause can become a source of skin injury if scratching becomes a problem.
Wrinkles: Reduced estrogen impacts the production of collagen and elastin, proteins essential for maintaining skin's firmness and elasticity, leading to the formation of wrinkles.
Sensitivity: As hormonal levels shift, you may find your skin becoming more sensitive, reacting adversely to skincare products or environmental factors that it previously had no issue with.
Thinning Skin: Lower estrogen levels can result in reduced skin thickness, making it more fragile and prone to bruising and tearing. This also makes dark undereye circles a lot more noticeable.
Reduced Elasticity: The decline in elastin production means your skin might not bounce back as quickly as it used to, leading to a saggy appearance.
Hyperpigmentation: Hormonal changes can trigger dark spots or patches on the skin, commonly known as age spots or liver spots.
Impaired Healing: The rate at which your skin repairs itself may slow down, making you more susceptible to cuts, bruises, and scars.
Acne: Menopause can trigger acne in some women due to hormonal imbalances affecting sebum production or due to barrier damage and dryness.
Rosacea Flare-ups: Women with existing rosacea may experience increased flare-ups during menopause, aggravated by hormonal changes.
Increase in Facial Hair: Lower estrogen levels and a relative increase in androgens can lead to the growth of unwanted facial hair.
Understanding these hormone-driven changes is the first step toward tailoring a skincare routine that effectively addresses the challenges unique to menopausal skin.
Although some women do have increased oiliness, by far the most common menopause skin changes is dryness. Staying properly hydrated can significantly improve the dryness, sensitivity, and itchiness during menopause. The importance of hydration for menopausal skin can't be overstated.
Increase your water intake. It's a simple but effective step for combating dry skin from menopause (and any other cause too). Also Consider using a humidifier. It can add moisture to the air in your home, helping to hydrate your skin.
Avoid skin barrier damage. A damaged skin barrier results in water loss and skin dehydration. The main culprits are excessive washing, over-exfoliation, using cleansers that strip oils, using hot water, and using too many (or too frequent) irritating active ingredients.
Use humectants to bring water to the skin. Look for products that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerine, beta-glucan, aloe, and allantoin.
Seal moisture into your skin using lipids (fats) which come from moisturizers and emollients. Some of the best moisturizing emollients are found in natural plant oils. Check out our beginner's guide to face oils as well as our list of face oils for dry skin and our list of anti aging face oils for LOTS more information.
Soothe your skin with ingredients that help calm and relieve dry, stressed skin and improve your moisture barrier include: ceramides, niacinamide, bisabolol, colloidal oatmeal, and hydrolyzed proteins.
Re-examine your exfoliation regimen. What was working before menopause might now be excessive and damaging. Lactic acid is gentler than glycolic and also functions as a humectant. Another great option is to try polyhydroxy-acids which are antioxidant, humectants, and gentle exfoliators.
As we discussed above, the imbalance in sex-hormones results in higher levels of testosterone, relative to the drop in estrogen. For some people, this translates into increased oiliness. However, many times the acne-hormone connection is not related to increased oil or sebum.
Dehydrated, dry, itchy, damaged skin barriers can trigger acne. Taking the approach to sensitive, dry and damaged skin that we described above will also often deal with the acne as well. A win-win!
We recommend using a high-quality face oil or oil serum that contains evening primrose oil or borage oil as part of your moisturization regimen. Both oils are high in GLA (gamma linolenic acid) which possibly influences hormonal acne.
Natural remedies can be a safe and effective way to manage your acne, but there's a lot to know so that you don't end up with more barrier damage and a worsening of your condition. Bottom line, simplify your routine first and get hydration levels fixed before you try too many other products.
This is a category where you have a lot of choice in effective ingredients that range from natural to prescription-based and even in-office procedures.
Different agents have differing levels of skin irritation potential, so consumers can really tailor their regimen to their skin type. We've written separate articles on managing hyperpigmentation as well as natural alternatives to hydroquinone. The topic is too big to discuss here.
Mainstays of treatment generally include Vitamin C or retinoids, but the options are vast.
Although preventing skin cancer is the main purpose, sunscreen is critical for preventing hyperpigmentation from worsening. Menopause comes with a lot of general symptoms like hot flashes. It's important to know that skin changes with menopause make your skin more vulnerable to the sun's harmful rays. And that's why dermatologists recommend that you apply sunscreen on your face daily, rain or shine.
When you're going through menopause, wrinkles, sagging, and skin thinning often occur in concert, and understanding this interrelationship is key to effective treatment. The underlying factors—like the loss of collagen, diminished fat stores, and alterations in the skin's natural matrix—often result in these three visible signs of aging. They're essentially different manifestations of the same root cause: the skin losing its youthful components and structure.
This is where skincare marketing can go bonkers promising unrealistic and inappropriate results. Very few ingredients have a solid base of scientific evidence, but everyone wants you to think they've got the next-big-thing.
Starting with the simple basics described above will do wonders for your fine lines. Nothing makes wrinkles look more prominent than having dry, irritated, flaky skin.
Hydration = plumpness = reduced wrinkles.
If you're on a budget, focus on hydration & moisture first!
That said, there are various skincare ingredients designed to target collagen quality or production.
Retinoids: There's a good amount of evidence for effectiveness and retinoids target more than just wrinkles. They're effective against acne and hyperpigmentation as well. The issue with retinoids is the dryness and irritability they cause and some women (who previously use/love retinoids) suddenly become intolerant of them when menopause hits. This is often where bakuchiol can come to the rescue because of its less-irritating nature.
Peptides and Growth Factors: These types of ingredients claim to land in your skin cells with a message - grow collagen! There may be truth to their effectiveness, but the issue is that so many variations exist (and so few have any good data) that the options are muddied. Our recommendation is to target hydration, moisture, pigmentation, and antioxidants first and if you have money left over, go peptide shopping.
Antioxidants: These combat free radicals that exacerbate aging, helping to improve the skin's overall texture and reduce wrinkles. Good news -ingredients like Vitamin C have overlapping effects, so you can multi-task.
Niacinamide: Known for its versatility, niacinamide can improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and strengthen the skin barrier, making this another multi-tasking ingredient.
The term inflammaging is relatively new. It's a broader category that looks at aging from a different perspective - a whole body, holistic one. We've written a comprehensive article about inflammaging, but the TL;DR on the topic is about your overall lifestyle. Your lifestyle choices can significantly impact how your complexion reacts to hormonal changes during this transitional period.
Drinking plenty of water, for instance, can help to maintain your skin's elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Smoking and excessive alcohol consumption can deteriorate your skin's health and make your cells age faster due to free radical damage, among other things.
Diets rich in antioxidants like berries, spinach, and nuts can help to fight off free radicals that speed up skin aging. Additionally, incorporating foods high in phytoestrogens, such as flaxseeds and soy products, may help balance your hormones naturally.
Regular physical activity plays a key role in maintaining your complexion's vibrancy and elasticity. Exercise boosts circulation, promoting a healthy glow, and it also helps to nourish skin cells. Sweating can even help to expel toxins, potentially reducing breakouts and improving your overall skin health.
You're not limited to natural remedies; there are also professional treatments available that can address your complexion issues effectively.
Consider visiting a dermatologist to get a personalized treatment plan. You could benefit from procedures such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, microneedling, or laser treatments to stimulate collagen production, reduce fine lines, and improve your skin's texture. Prescription topical treatments also exist.
If you've been started on hormone replacement therapy by your healthcare provider, you may notice changes to your skin as well, though this would not be a primary indication to initiate treatment.
Remember, there's no one-size-fits-all solution. Every woman's menopausal journey is unique, and what works for others might not work for you. Dealing with your skin in menopause may require you to hit the reset button. The skin you thought you had figured out has now changed and your routine will need to change with it.
Yes, it's possible. During this transitional period, your body undergoes hormonal changes that can manifest as new skin sensitivities or allergies. It's crucial to adjust your skincare routine to these changes.
Yes, menopause can slow down wound healing. Your body's decreasing estrogen levels reduce skin elasticity and moisture, affecting its ability to repair. If you have severely itchy skin, try to focus on ways of soothing without scratching so you don't worsen fragility.
Topical estrogen is often the mainstay treatment for vulvar and vaginal issues post menopause. Topical estrogen face cream is controversial, so you would need to discuss this with a physician well-versed in the current evidence and potential risks.
Existing skin conditions like rosacea or eczema can worsen during menopause. You'll notice increased dryness and sensitivity due to hormonal changes. It's important to adjust your skincare routine to manage these changes effectively.
Yes, it can. Your hormonal changes during menopause can indeed lead to skin pigmentation changes, causing dark spots or discoloration. It's important to protect and nourish your skin during this time.
References
Lephart ED, Naftolin F. Menopause and the Skin: Old Favorites and New Innovations in Cosmeceuticals for Estrogen-Deficient Skin. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2021 Feb;11(1):53-69. doi: 10.1007/s13555-020-00468-7. Epub 2020 Nov 26.
Nair PA. Dermatosis associated with menopause. J Midlife Health. 2014 Oct;5(4):168-75.
Zouboulis CC, Blume-Peytavi U, Kosmadaki M, Roó E, Vexiau-Robert D, Kerob D, Goldstein SR. Skin, hair and beyond: the impact of menopause. Climacteric. 2022 Oct;25(5):434-442.
Thornton MJ. Estrogens and aging skin. Dermatoendocrinol. 2013 Apr 1;5(2):264-70.
Kendall AC, Pilkington SM, Wray JR, Newton VL, Griffiths CEM, Bell M, Watson REB, Nicolaou A. Menopause induces changes to the stratum corneum ceramide profile, which are prevented by hormone replacement therapy. Sci Rep. 2022 Dec 15;12(1):21715.
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Hibiscus oil has made its way onto the bareLUXE list of luxurious carrier oils for several reasons. This delicate, light, and subtly scented carrier oil is special because of the skin benefits you'll experience when using it, but also because it is romantic and rarer than a lot of other carrier oils used in natural skincare products.
I fell in love with hibiscus oil because of its scent. Because it's a carrier oil, the scent is very subdued, but that's why I love it. With none of the risks of added essential oils, using lightly scented carrier oils like hibiscus can really amp up your daily experience while improving your skin health.
The hibiscus flower is much more than just a pretty bloom; it's a symbol that carries deep cultural meanings across the globe. In many societies, the hibiscus represents beauty, love, and fertility, often featured in celebrations like weddings. In Hawaii, the hibiscus encapsulates the "Aloha spirit," signifying warmth, hospitality, and friendliness. Additionally, this radiant flower holds a place of honour as the national flower of Malaysia, where it is known as "Bunga Raya" and stands as a symbol of courage.
In Chinese folklore, hibiscus is valued for its cooling properties and has been used to treat respiratory issues. African traditions incorporate hibiscus tea in wedding ceremonies, symbolizing the mix of sweetness and challenges in a marriage. In Ayurveda, hibiscus oil has long been used for skin rejuvenation and hair care, touted for its supposed "youth-boosting" properties.
Hibiscus seeds are harvested and dried to reduce their moisture content. This is crucial, as excess moisture can affect the oil's quality and longevity.
The dried hibiscus seeds are then cold-pressed, a method favoured for preserving the beneficial properties of the oil. This process involves applying high pressure to the plant material, forcing out the oil without using heat, which can degrade the oil's quality. It's a meticulous procedure, but it ensures you're getting the most potent and beneficial hibiscus oil possible. The quality and effectiveness of hibiscus oil can vary greatly depending on the extraction method and the quality of the hibiscus used.
Hibiscus oil has a balanced fatty acid profile that leans towards being more moisturizing and better for drier skin types due to higher levels of oleic acid. The Oleic acid content usually ranges 35-40% and is well-balanced by 25-35% linoleic acid. Having these two critical fatty acids balanced in that proportion results in an oil that's anti-inflammatory as well as moisturizing while being very unlikely to clog pores.
The comedogenicity of hibiscus oil isn't well studied. Given the fatty acid profile and how well it's balanced, you would expect it to fall in the 1-2 range on the comedogenicity scale. It is a light oil that wouldn't be expected to clog pores, but the higher oleic acid levels make it best for dry skin types.
The specific use of hibiscus for acne is not well studied. Given that it is a more moisturizing oil, those with oily skin may want to look elsewhere. However, its ability to balance sebum production still makes it reasonable to try for those with acne and drier skin.
Check out bareLUXE's award-winning serums |
The extract from hibiscus flowers is a powerhouse of bioactive compounds, many of which have potential benefits for the skin and hair. This is often sold in the powdered form. Hibiscus flower powder contains many phytochemicals with skin benefits. Among the most notable are the astringent tannins, which can help tighten pores and control excess oil on the skin. The extract is also rich in specific phenolic acids like protocatechuic acid, a potent antioxidant that has shown anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. These phenolic acids can be beneficial for a variety of skin issues, including acne, signs of aging, and uneven skin tone.
However, it's important to differentiate between hibiscus extract and hibiscus carrier oil. While the extract is rich in water-soluble compounds like flavonoids and certain phenolic acids, not all of these will be present in the carrier oil, which is primarily lipid-based. That said, hibiscus carrier oil retains many of the beneficial properties of the plant, particularly lipid-soluble components like fatty acids, Vitamin E, and quercetin, a phytochemical known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. These compounds offer their own set of benefits for skin and scalp health, including moisturization, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant protection.
All varieties of carrier oils have many overlapping benefits for the skin. Hibiscus oil skin benefits include:
Hibiscus oil retains some of the astringent properties of the extract, which makes it excellent for the scalp and as a cleansing oil. When used for skin care, hibiscus oil for face products is both safe and beneficial.
When it comes to choosing the best oils for the face, don't overthink it. They all have overlapping benefits and will all contribute to beautiful skin. Choose the ones that appeal to you based on your skin type (dry vs. oily) and your preferences (scent, affordability, organic farmed, etc.). But if you're looking for serious results-based skincare, you need to look for oils that are formulated as serums with more active botanicals and ingredients. It was this realization that got me onto the path of formulating oil serums and face oils that are elevated far beyond simple carrier oils.
Hibiscus oil is great for the hair and scalp. There is some thought that it may stimulate hair growth and could function as a natural alternative to medicated options for some people trying to regrow hair. Hibiscus hair oil is lovely, light, and non-greasy.
Additionally, the emollient properties of hibiscus oil make it an excellent moisturizer for dry and damaged hair. Its rich, moisturizing properties strengthen hair and restore its natural shine. Hibiscus oil can also help to balance the pH of your scalp, preventing issues like dandruff and scalp irritation. These reasons are why we love hibiscus for hair and have included it in our list of best hair oils.
Because it retains some of the astringent properties and (again) because of its luxurious feel and scent, hibiscus oil is on our list of best oils for cleansing.
Hibiscus oil is rich in antioxidants that fight against skin-damaging free radicals. It also has natural exfoliating properties, promoting a brighter and smoother complexion. Furthermore, it's packed with omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids that nourish and hydrate the skin, making it a perfect contender for oil cleansing.
Hibiscus farming and oil production present unique opportunities for humanitarian and sustainability initiatives, although the impact can vary depending on regional practices and scales of operation. From a humanitarian perspective, hibiscus cultivation can empower local communities, especially in developing countries.
Small-scale farmers often grow hibiscus as a cash crop, which can provide a more stable and reliable source of income than other agricultural options. This economic empowerment can lead to improved educational and health outcomes for the farmers and their families.
On the sustainability front, hibiscus plants are relatively hardy and can thrive in a variety of climatic conditions, making them a suitable choice for sustainable agriculture. They often require less water and fewer pesticides compared to other cash crops, contributing to a more sustainable and environmentally friendly farming practice.
However, it's crucial to note that the actual sustainability of hibiscus oil production can vary widely and depends on factors like extraction methods and transportation. Cold-pressed oils, for example, are generally considered more eco-friendly than oils extracted using chemical solvents.
The delicate scent is what makes this oil stand out among many others. Unlike some plant-based oils, hibiscus oil is rich in antioxidants and vitamin E, making it exceptional for skin and hair health. It's unique in promoting hair growth and providing anti-aging benefits for your skin.
This is highly unlikely. There are no unique side effects to worry about that are specific to hibiscus. While rare, some people may experience allergic reactions. This is why it's always important to patch-test new products or discuss them with your dermatologist if you're worried.
Yes, you can use hibiscus oil in aromatherapy. Research shows its floral, calming scent promotes relaxation. However, it's essential to ensure you're not allergic to it before incorporating it into your aromatherapy routine. That said, the aroma is very subtle, so it makes a great carrier oil for massage, and other scents can be used in the diffuser.
Discover the best face oils with bareLUXE Skincare.
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References
Mohamed R, Fernández J, Pineda M, Aguilar M. Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) seed oil is a rich source of gamma-tocopherol. J Food Sci. 2007 Apr;72(3):S207-11.
di Martino O, Tito A, De Lucia A, Cimmino A, Cicotti F, Apone F, Colucci G, Calabrò V. Hibiscus syriacus Extract from an Established Cell Culture Stimulates Skin Wound Healing. Biomed Res Int. 2017;2017:7932019.
Dos Santos Nascimento LB, Gori A, Raffaelli A, Ferrini F, Brunetti C. Phenolic Compounds from Leaves and Flowers of Hibiscus roseus: Potential Skin Cosmetic Applications of an Under-Investigated Species. Plants (Basel). 2021 Mar 10;10(3):522.
Wang ML, Morris B, Tonnis B, Davis J, Pederson GA. Assessment of oil content and fatty acid composition variability in two economically important Hibiscus species. J Agric Food Chem. 2012 Jul 4;60(26):6620-6.
Adhirajan N, Ravi Kumar T, Shanmugasundaram N, Babu M. In vivo and in vitro evaluation of hair growth potential of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Linn. J Ethnopharmacol. 2003 Oct;88(2-3):235-9.
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The prevalence of microplastics in skincare products has become a significant concern. While invisible to the naked eye, these minute chemicals pose substantial threats to marine ecosystems and, potentially, human health.
This article will explore the role of microplastics in the beauty industry, their environmental and health impacts, current regulations, and the potential for eco-friendly alternatives.
It will also examine the role consumers play in combating this ubiquitous pollutant.
Microplastics do not biodegrade; they pose a threat to aquatic ecosystems and work their way back up the food chain.
Eco-friendly alternatives, such as natural ingredients and biodegradable alternatives to traditional plastic, can mitigate environmental damage.
Consumers play a crucial role in combating microplastics by making informed purchasing decisions and advocating for stricter regulations, like global bans on microbeads.
Microplastics, typically defined as plastic particles smaller than 5mm in size, have increasingly become a subject of concern. These particles can be compared to tiny grains of sand, but their impact on the environment is disproportionately larger. Nanoplastics are the same, just even smaller.
Primary microplastics are tiny plastic pieces or fibres that are intentionally designed to be small, usually less than 5mm in size. They are often used in products like facial scrubs, toothpaste, and synthetic clothing.
Secondary microplastics are created when larger plastic items degrade over time due to environmental factors such as sunlight and wave action. These larger items fragment into smaller and smaller pieces, eventually becoming microplastics.
Microplastics come in a variety of forms, including plastic microbeads, which are often incorporated into skincare products for their exfoliating properties. These tiny plastic particles are designed to be washed down the drain after use, but their small size allows them to bypass wastewater treatment plants and enter waterways and oceans. It is analogous to a sieve that fails to catch finer particles, allowing them to slip through unnoticed. Thankfully, this specific form of microplastic has largely been banned. Unfortunately, the ban does not extend to microplastics in makeup, like glitter, as well as other particles that don't qualify as microbeads, like abrasives in toothpaste.
When they enter the food chain, these chemicals can be ingested by marine life and, subsequently, by humans. Marine pollution is a very harmful form of environmental contamination linked to beauty industry pollution.
By far, the largest source of microplastics comes from packaging materials. Packaging materials such as plastic bags and bottles break down into microplastics over time. This happens particularly when these materials are exposed to sunlight or physical stressors, like when a plastic bag is crumpled, or a bottle is crushed. It's like a cookie crumbling into small crumbs, except these 'crumbs' are plastic particles that persist in the environment for hundreds of years.
Tiny plastic particles are also used as ingredients that are usually abrasive. They are usually found in toothpaste and exfoliants. The use of decorative elements like glitter is also often plastic.
Microplastics are also released from synthetic clothing during washing. A single wash of a synthetic garment can release up to 700,000 microplastic fibres. This is akin to emptying a small packet of glitter into a river; the particles disperse widely, making them virtually impossible to retrieve completely.
One commonly overlooked form of microplastics in skincare is the ingredients themselves. Liquid microplastics are truly invisible to the naked eye and wash easily down the drain. These ingredients are used as texture modifiers in skincare products - usually thickening and gelling agents like carbomer, acrylates copolymer, and polyethylene.
Microplastics are ubiquitous, infiltrating all corners of the environment, from the deepest ocean trenches to the highest mountain peaks. Their sources are as diverse as their destinations, making their management and reduction a complex, global concern.
The proliferation of these minute plastic particles in water bodies poses a significant threat to marine life. These particles are so small that they easily bypass water treatment facilities, leading to an increased presence in marine ecosystems.
The detrimental impact on marine life is multifaceted:
There is an urgent need to address the issue of microplastics in skincare, acknowledging the far-reaching implications on marine life and, consequently, on human health and the environment.
Exposure to these minuscule plastic particles, predominantly through the consumption of contaminated seafood, poses potential health risks for humans. Microplastics are small enough to infiltrate the tissues of various marine species, which are then ingested by humans. This creates a direct pathway for microplastics to enter the human food system.
The potential health risks of such contamination are still under investigation. However, numerous studies suggest harmful effects. Due to their small size, akin to a grain of sand or smaller, microplastics can evade the body's natural filtration systems, potentially leading to accumulation in various organs.
Moreover, these tiny particles can carry other pollutants, acting like minuscule vessels for other chemicals. These potential toxicants can potentially be released into the body, leading to adverse health effects.
The exact amount and type of harm to humans is up for debate. The plastic and petroleum industries would like us to believe they are passive, inert bystanders. Sorry, I don't buy that! The only way to properly study this question is to be able to have a comparison group - a group of humans with no microplastic exposure. Unfortunately, this doesn't exist.
Recent studies have revealed alarming evidence of microplastics being found in fetal tissue, human placentas, human breast milk, and newborn meconium (the first poop a baby forms was developed in the womb from swallowing amniotic fluid).
The presence of microplastics in fetal tissue and placentas suggests that these tiny particles can cross the protective barrier of the womb, potentially exposing developing fetuses to harmful substances. The implications of this are yet to be fully understood, but it's concerning, particularly as these particles can carry toxins and have been shown to cause inflammation and damage to tissues in animal studies.
Moreover, the detection of microplastics in human breastmilk is another alarming indication of our daily exposure to plastic pollutants. While breastfeeding remains the best source of nutrition for infants, the presence of these pollutants is an unwanted addition, the long-term effects of which are still largely unknown.
The most easily identifiable culprit is plastic skincare containers.
Identification of microplastics in various products, particularly liquid microplastic ingredients, is essential in understanding their potential impact on human health and the environment.
Some organizations, like Beat the Microbead (by the Plastic Soup Foundation), are trying to make it easy for consumers to identify liquid microplastics. Even better, they help consumers identify microplastic-free brands like bareLUXE.
Numerous skincare products contain liquid microplastic ingredients. Texture modifiers and gelling agents like carbomer and acrylates are pervasive. Some others include:
There is an ever-growing list of liquid microplastic ingredients, which is why using apps like Beat the Microbead can be so helpful for consumers.
Should you have a product clearly filled with plastic beads or particles, disposal should be carried out in a manner that prevents them from entering water bodies.
One approach is to filter out the microbeads from products before discarding the remaining solution. This is akin to sifting flour to separate the finer particles. The collected microbeads can then be disposed of with solid waste, thereby reducing their chances of contaminating water resources. However, this approach requires considerable effort and may not be feasible in all scenarios. It also doesn't eliminate the liquid microplastics from going down the drain.
Hence, the promotion of microbead-free products is a more sustainable solution.
Natural ingredients have gained prominence as viable substitutes for microplastics in skincare products. For instance, ingredients like jojoba beads, apricot kernels, and salt are increasingly being used as exfoliants instead of polyethylene. These natural alternatives function similarly to microplastics, offering the desired scrubbing effect without the associated environmental cost. Baking soda is a good example when it comes to toothpaste abrasives as well.
Skincare formulators have an ever-increasing list of natural gelling and thickening agents like xanthan, guar, acacia, tara, sclerotium, and locust bean gums; there's also cellulose, pectin, alginate, lecithin, and various clays. So many options that biodegrade and still make luxurious cosmetics and beauty products.
Packaging innovations and biotechnology have led to the development of biodegradable plastics derived from plant-based materials. These novel materials disintegrate and biodegrade, some are even compostable, negating the persistent pollution problem posed by conventional microplastics.
The role of consumers in addressing the environmental crisis precipitated by the presence of minute plastic particles in personal care products is paramount and multifaceted. Their actions can influence manufacturers to transition towards more sustainable practices.
Consumers can help mitigate the microplastics issue in several ways:
Imagine a world where consumers act as watchdogs, scrutinizing product labels as diligently as they would a food menu. In this scenario, companies would be compelled to offer environmentally friendly options. This is the ultimate scenario and why we advocate for the slow beauty movement.
Consumer decision-making can stimulate industry-wide changes, driving manufacturers to abandon harmful practices. This emphasizes the power of the consumer wallet, turning it into a tool for environmental protection.
Transitioning from the realm of consumer responsibility, it becomes apparent that the onus to mitigate the environmental impact of microplastics also lies with beauty industry stakeholders.
The beauty industry needs to step up! Small indie brands have caught on, but the impact comes when major cosmetics brands get on board. Being a 100% plastic-free beauty brand is not yet possible, but having the goal is admirable.
The cosmetics industry is gradually recognizing the environmental implications of its products, with microplastics emerging as a significant concern. This recognition is translating into a shift towards more sustainable practices, which can be seen in a growing trend of brands opting for natural, biodegradable ingredients over synthetic, non-degradable ones. This is akin to switching from plastic bags to reusable totes in an effort to reduce plastic waste.
Conscious packaging is another area where a notable shift is occurring. More brands are now choosing materials that are recyclable or, even better, biodegradable. This mirrors the shift from plastic water bottles to glass or metal alternatives.
The ubiquity of microplastics, particularly in skincare products, poses significant challenges to marine life and, potentially, human health. Regulatory measures are critical in managing this issue, but consumer choices also hold considerable power.
The shift towards eco-friendly alternatives is a promising step towards sustainable beauty practices. Continued research, innovative alternatives, and increased awareness are necessary for a future that harmoniously combines beauty and environmental responsibility.
Ragusa A, Notarstefano V, Svelato A, Belloni A, Gioacchini G, Blondeel C, Zucchelli E, De Luca C, D'Avino S, Gulotta A, Carnevali O, Giorgini E. Raman Microspectroscopy Detection and Characterisation of Microplastics in Human Breastmilk. Polymers (Basel). 2022 Jun 30;14(13):2700.
Campanale C, Massarelli C, Savino I, Locaputo V, Uricchio VF. A Detailed Review Study on Potential Effects of Microplastics and Additives of Concern on Human Health. Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2020 Feb 13;17(4):1212.
Park JH, Hong S, Kim OH, Kim CH, Kim J, Kim JW, Hong S, Lee HJ. Polypropylene microplastics promote metastatic features in human breast cancer. Sci Rep. 2023 Apr 17;13(1):6252.
Ragusa A, Svelato A, Santacroce C, Catalano P, Notarstefano V, Carnevali O, Papa F, Rongioletti MCA, Baiocco F, Draghi S, D'Amore E, Rinaldo D, Matta M, Giorgini E. Plasticenta: First evidence of microplastics in human placenta. Environ Int. 2021 Jan;146:106274.
Zhu L, Zhu J, Zuo R, Xu Q, Qian Y, An L. Identification of microplastics in human placenta using laser direct infrared spectroscopy. Sci Total Environ. 2023 Jan 15;856(Pt 1):159060.
Liu S, Lin G, Liu X, Yang R, Wang H, Sun Y, Chen B, Dong R. Detection of various microplastics in placentas, meconium, infant feces, breastmilk and infant formula: A pilot prospective study. Sci Total Environ. 2022 Sep 13;854:158699.
Braun T, Ehrlich L, Henrich W, Koeppel S, Lomako I, Schwabl P, Liebmann B. Detection of Microplastic in Human Placenta and Meconium in a Clinical Setting. Pharmaceutics. 2021 Jun 22;13(7):921.
Medley EA, Spratlen MJ, Yan B, Herbstman JB, Deyssenroth MA. A Systematic Review of the Placental Translocation of Micro- and Nanoplastics. Curr Environ Health Rep. 2023 Jun;10(2):99-111.
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I've written a deep dive about the skincare ingredient bakuchiol, and I've also discussed the reasons some people quit retinoids in favour of a natural alternative. However, there's no question that retinoids are highly effective, so now it's time to pit the two ingredients head-to-head in this article that will definitively compare bakuchiol vs retinol.
If you've decided you cannot (or will not) use retinoids, you've probably been scouring Sephora's shelves for an effective replacement option. Wrinkles and acne can be stamped out with different strategies and ingredients. Bakuchiol is the popular choice, and there's good reason why.
But in the debate between bakuchiol vs retinol, what comes out ahead?
Bakuchiol vs retinol? The answer is: it depends.
For me, bakuchiol, absolutely. I have amazing skin benefits and none of the downsides of retinol - an ingredient I'm completely intolerant of. It doesn't matter if retinol is a million times more effective than bakuchiol; I can't use it.
For you? It depends on your shopping preferences, skin tolerance, and goals. If you're interested in trying bakuchiol, the research evidence comparing the 2 ingredients is compelling. However, retinol has many more years of experience and data. Bakuchiol hasn't been studied in large trials or in head-to-head studies against other retinoids (i.e. prescription strength) or in situations of very long-term use. From a pure results standpoint, it's likely that retinol would win; however, there is so much more to consider.
Clearly, I'm biased. I love bakuchiol, and I'm the founder of a skincare brand that sells an award-winning bakuchiol serum. There are many differences between bakuchiol and retinol. In order to provide as balanced and unbiased a review as possible, I decided to ask Ai for an unbiased summary comparing the two ingredients, then I declared a winner in each category:
The research comparing bakuchiol vs retinol head-to-head found bakuchiol to be comparable to retinol (this was at a 0.5% concentration for both ingredients).
This makes it safe to assume you will see results regardless of which ingredient you choose.
When it comes to chemical structure and function, bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol. Even though the skin effects and visible results are comparable to retinol, the bakuchiol molecule is not similar. They are entirely different chemicals. The two both work on cells that produce collagen and melanin. The end result is similar, but the chemical structures are unrelated. This explains why the two have such different side effects.
Everybody wants to know if bakuchiol is better than retinol.
The current evidence only suggests bakuchiol is comparable - not better. For some people, it's better (particularly people who can't or won't use retinol). Although the research supporting bakuchiol as an alternative is promising, we need larger and longer studies that are controlled and blinded to avoid bias.
Another issue is that isn't any data comparing bakuchiol to prescription retinoids. When it comes to a long-term comparison of bakuchiol vs retinoids (not just retinol), the safe assumption is that retinoids (as a whole) are probably more effective. The data for retinoids goes back to at least 1984.
However, there are many other factors to consider when deciding what to use. Results matter, but not if the risks or side effects are too high. So many people can't tolerate retinol due to the skin barrier damage it causes. That is why we view retinol alternative regimens as important options.
If results are top priority and you have no specific reason to avoid retinoids (pregnancy, preference for natural ingredients, known history of eye involvement or severe irritation) then starting with a prescription retinoid is probably the best bang for your buck. See a dermatologist. Stick with it. Push through the pain. Be patient.
If that doesn't describe you, the bakuchiol is the ingredient for you!
I'm putting the finishing touches on a review of all the bakuchiol research that's been done to date. Check back soon to read it!
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I spent a lifetime uninformed about the impact plastic skincare containers have on our environment and oceans.
That changed in August 2019 when we took a family trip to Vancouver. We visited the art exhibit by Douglas Coupland at the Vancouver Aquarium - a provocative display highlighting the extent and the impact of plastic trash in our oceans.
It really stuck with me.
Always one for a good case of mom guilt, I felt overwhelmed about my own contribution to the problem. I ruminated about the fact that somewhere out there lies every single toothbrush I've ever used. Every single diaper my kids ever used (and the ones from when I was a baby, 40 some odd years ago). Every straw. Every ribbon, piece of packaging, grocery bag, and iconic coffee drink stopper.
Everything. It's all still out there somewhere.
So, I cancelled my beloved beauty sample box. I LOVED my beauty sample box. It was like Christmas every month. That shiny, pink bubbly envelope would arrive and I could feel my brain bursting with glee, knowing I'd get 5 shimmery, fragrant, joy-bringing items (most of which would shortly find their way into my cosmetics graveyard).
When I got my "tell us why you cancelled" email, I answered: "Too many single-use plastic items, nothing recyclable, have to make a change."
Nobody really cares if I personally subscribe or not, but if 1000 or 10 000 or 100 000 people all did the exact same thing, companies would pay attention.
Brand owners have a corporate and ethical responsibility to do our research too. Eco friendly, sustainable skincare containers exist and technology is ready to replace plastic. Consumers have the power to challenge the status quo and force corporations change!
The petroleum, plastic, and beauty industries only started to develop exponentially in the 1920s. That's only 100 years ago.
In less than 2% of our time here on Earth, consumerism has created a climate catastrophe that threatens our own survival.
In 2017, the beauty and personal care market size was over 455 billion dollars - and growing at a rate of 5% per year. It's estimated that global production of cosmetics containers is 120–150 billion per year.
Simply packaging skincare products into 'recyclable containers' and thinking they've done enough is an error companies make. It puts the responsibility on to the consumer. What needs to happen is total redesign of our system.
The beauty industry needs to step up.
Nothing is perfect.
We love glass as an alternative to plastic. However, glass is heavy. It costs more to ship. It can shatter (so not the best option for bath products). It persists in the environment literally forever if it's thrown away. Mining sand from ocean and riverbeds also has environmental consequences.
The great thing is that glass is infinitely recyclable, and it will never leach toxins into the environment or produce microplastics. However, not all glass bottles or cosmetic containers are able to be recycled, and many that can still never make it to the depot.
Cosmetic packaging can be tricky to sort out. The bioplastic and plastic-alternative worlds are growing and very promising. However, greenwashing and misinformation is tricky to spot sometimes.
Much of the cost associated with skincare products is not for the formulas themselves, but the brand image, packaging, and shopping experience. For example, a luxury face serum might sell for $300, but the product's production cost doesn't warrant such a price. Instead, consumers are paying for the prestige of the brand, the packaging, and the unboxing experience, contributing to the price inflation and unnecessary waste.
The opposite end of the spectrum – affordable skincare brands – are often viewed as 'disposable' due to their lower price points. This mindset, however, encourages overconsumption and results in increased plastic waste, as these products usually come in plastic containers.
The private label skincare industry is another aspect adding to the complexity. These brands buy generic formulas in bulk, repackage, and market them as unique or premium, sustaining the illusion of pricing.
As consumers, we can challenge these practices by being aware of these pricing illusions and understanding the environmental impact of our choices. Our purchases can prompt the industry to seek truly sustainable alternatives to their packaging needs.
Another driver of unsustainability (and profits) is impulse shopping. Brands expertly leverage this propensity to buy on a whim through various strategies, such as offering add-ons, paid samples, mini-trial sizes, and subscription boxes. These tactics are intricately designed to stimulate the release of serotonin and dopamine, neurotransmitters that boost our mood and make us more inclined to purchase.
One of the most prominent impulse buying lures in the beauty industry is the concept of "free samples." These are usually small-sized versions of a product given out for free, either as a standalone offering or included as a bonus when purchasing other items. The allure of receiving something for free can be a strong motivator, leading consumers to spend more than they originally planned.
The tactic of offering "paid samples" is another twist in the impulse buying game. These are mini versions of products available for purchase, often at a considerably lower price point than their full-sized counterparts. The smaller price tag can make these samples seem like a bargain, but the environmental implications are far from cost-effective. Much like free samples, paid samples also generate a significant amount of plastic waste due to their packaging.
Skin care sample containers and packets are rarely recyclable. Given the size, even if they are able to be recycled, most usually are not sent down that pathway. They just sit in your discard drawer for a few years and get dumped into the trash when you do some spring cleaning.
Subscription boxes present another challenge. While these services can seem like an excellent way to try multiple products at a discounted rate, they also encourage overconsumption. Many consumers end up with products they don't need or won't use, leading to wasted product and excess packaging.
And let's not forget the impact of shipping. Brands often set a minimum purchase amount to qualify for free shipping, knowing full well that many consumers will buy more to avoid the shipping fee. This tactic contributes to overconsumption and, consequently, more plastic waste from excess product packaging.
Certainly, the charm of pretty little things is hard to resist, and most of us, consciously or unconsciously, fall into the trap of impulse buying. As consumers, though, we have a responsibility to scrutinize our shopping habits and the choices we make.
At the heart of a truly sustainable lifestyle is minimalism - using only what we need and making mindful choices about our consumption habits. That's where the slow beauty movement originates.
In the context of skincare, the concept of Skinimalism emerges. It reflects a pared-down approach to beauty routines, urging consumers to prioritize quality over quantity.
However, an important message often gets lost in this conversation: overconsumption of even 'sustainable' products can be environmentally detrimental.
Regrettably, the beauty industry has frequently prioritized convenience over sustainability. Single-use plastic packaging remains a pervasive choice for many brands due to its low cost and convenience for consumers. Though the emergence of refillable containers is a promising trend, it is yet to become mainstream. It's also fraught with its own paradoxes, but it's still a step in the right direction.
Consumer sentiment is a powerful catalyst for industry transformation. When we, as consumers, start shifting our focus towards more sustainable choices, large corporations are left with two options: adapt or risk irrelevance. We all play a role in driving this change.
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My husband and I both have childhood memories of baby oil. There's something about the scent of mineral oil that can take you back 40 years in an instant. For both of us, it reminds us of our dads. My husband's dad was a professional clown, and mineral oil was the only thing to get the thick, white face paint off his skin. My dad does woodworking and gunsmithing, and mineral oil is a mainstay in his world.
When it comes to skincare, choosing the right products can be quite a challenge. There's a dizzying array of choices out there, and one that often comes up is baby oil. Known for its gentleness, baby oil is often touted as a simple, effective moisturizer.
But what exactly is baby oil? How does it affect your skin and the environment? Is it safe? Can you use mineral oil on your face?
These were the exact questions I faced when trying to resolve my son's horrible newborn eczema. My mom-brain knew (properly purified) petrolatum was safe, but my doctor-brain wanted something more natural and nourishing.
In this article, we'll delve into the science behind baby oil and explore the perspective of green beauty advocates on its use.
Mineral oil and baby oil are essentially the same thing.
Mineral oil is a clear, odourless byproduct of distilling petroleum into gasoline. It is a common ingredient in various cosmetic and personal care products due to its properties as a moisturizer and a barrier to moisture loss. It is highly refined and purified for cosmetic use, which means that it doesn't contain the impurities that unrefined mineral oil, used in industrial applications, might contain (and which are known to be harmful and potentially carcinogenic).
Baby oil, on the other hand, is mineral oil with added fragrance to give it its signature scent. The mineral oil used in baby oil is the same highly refined and purified oil used in other cosmetic products. The name "baby oil" is more about marketing than the product being fundamentally different from other mineral oil products.
When using either oil on your face, the results will essentially be the same. However, baby oil has the potential to trigger irritation if you are sensitive to fragrances.
Baby oil is a petroleum-based mineral oil that's been refined and fragranced. As an 'occlusive,' baby oil forms a barrier on your skin, preventing water loss. This function benefits dry skin, which can suffer from excessive moisture loss. This is a benefit seen when using any oils on your face, not specific to mineral oil.
The mineral oil used in skincare is highly purified, eliminating potentially harmful contaminants found in its unrefined form. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, composed of independent scientists, has affirmed the safety of mineral oil in cosmetics. However, the proper purification steps are critical to ensuring this safety is maintained.
Despite being an effective moisturizer that is generally felt to be safe, baby oil may not meet everyone's skincare needs or personal values. From a green beauty standpoint, there are important aspects to consider.
First, baby oil is a byproduct of the petroleum industry, an industry linked to significant environmental issues like air and water pollution, habitat destruction, and climate change. As conscious consumers, we must all work to eliminate our dependence on fossil fuels and their derivatives.
Second, many baby oils contain fragrances. While these can enhance user experience, they can also cause irritation or allergic reactions in some people. The lack of transparency regarding fragrance components—due to proprietary reasons—also raises concerns for those of us committed to knowing exactly what we're applying to our skin.
Most importantly, while baby oil may be a simple solution for preventing moisture loss, it lacks other skincare benefits. Unlike plant-based oils such as meadowfoam or jojoba, baby oil does not possess any benefits beyond simple moisturization.
If you use baby oil or mineral oil on your face, you're missing out on the opportunity to use nourishing oils that are antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antibacterial, and able to improve skin health, skin barrier function, and wound healing.
Because of its relationship with the petrochemical industry, mineral oil is on the bareLUXE list of worst oils for your face.
If the points above have led you to reconsider baby oil, there are plant-based alternatives that not only moisturize but also nourish your skin.
Oils derived from plants like jojoba and sunflower seed are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and fatty acids that can help repair and rejuvenate your skin. Not to mention, they are more environmentally friendly.
If you're specifically looking for a "baby" oil (to use on a baby), sunflower seed oil has been studied in the neonatal and premature birth scenarios in the developing world and is safe and helpful with newborn skin.
If I was going to make a DIY baby oil, I would choose 2 or 3 oils and 0 fragrance:
Squalane is a saturated, plant-based hydrocarbon that is a perfect replacement for petrochemical mineral oil. It is essentially bioidentical to the squalene we produce on own skin, so reactions and allergies are almost unheard of.
Sunflower seed oil (not high-oleic) is also excellent for the reason I mentioned above.
Three others to consider would be meadowfoam, for it's gentleness, borage oil, for the GLA levels, and jojoba oil, for it's wax-like properties.
Yes, you can put baby oil on your face, but whether it's advisable or not depends on your skin type, needs, and personal values.
Baby oil is a petroleum-based mineral oil that's been refined and often fragranced. It's a controversial ingredient because many do not believe it to be safe, despite evidence to the contrary.
From my perspective, there are hundreds of better, natural, plant-based emollient oils to use, so why bother?
Unlikely. Despite being an occlusive agent, mineral oil doesn't clog pores for a majority of people. Baby oil could have a higher risk depending on how it is fragranced.
Baby oil itself does not bioaccumulate.
While both mineral oil and liquid microplastics are derived from petroleum, they are chemically distinct and behave differently. Liquid microplastics pose a risk to the environment as they do not degrade easily and can accumulate in various ecosystems. The chemical structure of mineral oil does not present the same concerns regarding environmental persistence or bioaccumulation. However, refining petroleum to produce mineral oil contributes to the petroleum industry's environmental impact, which is dire.
While baby oil isn't inherently bad for your skin and can function as a straightforward moisturizer, it's critical to consider both your skin's needs and personal values when deciding on your skincare routine.
Choosing skincare products is not merely about immediate effects but also long-term health and environmental impact. After all, a beautiful complexion is even more rewarding when it's achieved sustainably.
Chuberre B, Araviiskaia E, Bieber T, Barbaud A. Mineral oils and waxes in cosmetics: an overview mainly based on the current European regulations and the safety profile of these compounds. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2019 Nov;33 Suppl 7:5-14.
]]>I didn't start my natural skincare journey planning to become an expert in face oils. However, as I developed my own product line, I got deeper and deeper into the nuances of each carrier oil. They are all unique and stand out for different reasons - phytochemicals, fatty acid composition, natural scent, viscosity, etc.
That's why I have written this face oil guide - this is the most comprehensive guide to choosing and using face oils that you will find! Don't start shopping until you've read it.
BUT... to be clear, using oils for the face should be fun, not overwhelming - so don't get bogged down in the details! If you are looking for a quick-start guide, here is our list to get you started!
The single-carrier-oil approach is as simple as you can get. If your entire daily beauty ritual includes only cleansing and a single carrier facial oil, your skin will be healthy, soft and glowing.
Irritated Skin
Start with: squalane, sunflower, meadowfoam
Read more: Best Oils for Sensitive or Irritable Skin
Shop bareLUXE: bare Essential Elevated Barrier Oil
Dry Skin
Start with: jojoba, plum, oat
Read more: Best Facial Oils for Dry Skin
Shop bareLUXE: Northern Rescue Elevated Recovery Oil
Oily Skin with Acne
Start with: abyssinian, squalane, borage
Read more: Best Face Oils for Oily or Acne Prone Skin
Shop bareLUXE: Product coming soon!
A face oil is an anhydrous (contains no water) mixture of oils that may also contain oil-soluble, active ingredients, such as herbal extracts.
By not adding water or water-soluble ingredients, there is no need to add emulsifiers, solubilizers, surfactants, or preservatives. This helps give your skin a radiant glow with the fewest ingredients. For many people this is appealing because pure, natural face oils are as close to nature as you can get.
A carrier oil is a mild oil that doesn't have many of its own dramatic properties such as color or scent. Carrier oils high in antioxidants are especially healthy for the skin.
The term carrier oil originates from the aromatherapy world, where the purpose is to dilute essential oils so they can be used for the aroma while doing massage.
When developing bareLUXE specialized facial oils, I considered anything that could be used at 100% concentration on your face as a carrier oil and anything else as a specialized oil.
As I said above, specialized oils are plant-based oils with unique or outstanding properties that make them best used in diluted form.
Examples of specialized oils not generally used at 100% concentration are: broccoli seed oil (which has a strong odour), tamanu oil (which is thick and almost black), and sea buckthorn oil (which will stain your skin and clothes if used at high concentration).
They each have a specialized purpose and are effective in lower concentrations. They are still created using standard processes like cold-pressing, so they are not the same as essential oils.
Essential oils are concentrated plant extracts that retain the natural smell and flavour, or "essence," of their source. These oils are usually obtained through steam distillation or solvent extraction.
Essential oils are often used in aromatherapy. Depending on the skin benefits and scent you're looking for, they may or may not be included in a face oil.
Essential oils are the most concentrated and contain very high levels of phytochemicals and volatile, aromatic compounds. They require knowledge and training to use safely and are not always safe to use on your face.
Oils are extracted from various seeds, nuts, kernels, and vegetables. Each is unique and contains different types and percentages of fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins, phytochemicals, and minerals.
Cold pressing is the best method to extract phytonutrients from seeds. It's the least destructive extraction method that protects the delicate phytochemicals. Generally, the best face oils are cold-pressed and organic.
But, do they all possess such different compositions that they are each uniquely able to target individual skin concerns?
Yes and no.
This is a big question that took me down the rabbit hole learning about the difference between carrier oils and oil serums.
The short answer is yes, carrier oils are all unique. For example, pomegranate oil is one of the only sources of punicic acid; meadowfoam oil is high in eicosenoic acid, while borage and evening primrose oil are highest in GLA. Each unique carrier oil can be the star player in different products for different skin types and concerns.
However, carrier oils are passive in the quest for dramatic, results-based skincare. They are nourishing, protective, soothing, and lovely, but if you're looking for an active approach, you must look at oil serums and other products with more bioactivity and functional ingredients to target specific skincare concerns.
When delving into the science of facial oils, several key concepts stand out: the fatty acid composition, phytochemical profile, and their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial/antifungal properties.
Let's break things down.
Face oils are rich in fatty acids, the proportion of which can significantly influence their properties and benefits. There are three types of fatty acids: saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated, each with different effects on the skin.
Linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated fatty acid) is beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin, as it regulates sebum production and can unclog pores. Oleic acid (an Omega 9) is a bit thicker and feels richer, so it's much more moisturizing and better for dry skin. The ratio between the two is a major factor in determining the skin-feel, absorption rate, and whether it is suitable for oily or acne-prone skin.
Common fatty acids in most carrier oils include palmitic acid, stearic acid, and lauric acid. Palmitic and stearic acids, both saturated fats, help improve skin texture and appearance. Lauric acid has antimicrobial properties.
Not all oils fit into these typical carrier oil compositions. For instance, jojoba oil is technically a wax ester, not an oil, and it's uniquely composed mostly of eicosenoic acid, which closely resembles human sebum. Pomegranate oil contains a rare Omega-5 fatty acid called punicic acid, with strong anti-inflammatory properties. Tamanu oil is another unique carrier oil, as it contains a rare lipid called calophyllic acid known for its wound-healing properties.
These unique oils underscore the diversity and potential benefits of carrier oils in skincare.
Carrier oils are rich in bioactive compounds like polyphenols, flavonoids, and sterols, which each provide a range of skincare benefits.
Estimating the total number of phytochemicals in plant oils is challenging due to the immense diversity of plant species and the complexity of their chemical makeup. However, it's safe to say that there are thousands of different phytochemicals present in the wide range of plant oils used in skincare and other industries.
Polyphenols such as resveratrol in grape seed oil have potent antioxidant properties that protect skin from free radical damage.
Flavonoids like silymarin in milk thistle oil offer additional antioxidant protection and can help soothe inflammation.
Additionally, sterols, or plant steroids, support the skin barrier. One example is beta-sitosterol, a phytosterol found in oils like soybean and avocado, that helps retain moisture in the skin and reduce inflammation.
These bioactive compounds contribute significantly to the therapeutic properties of carrier oils in face care, aiding skin protection, hydration, and soothing inflammation.
The sebaceous glands in our skin produce a natural oil called sebum. Genetics and hormones decide how much (or how little) sebum you produce.
Sebum moisturizes, waterproofs, and protects your skin.
Sebum is composed of 57% fatty acids, 26% natural waxes, 12% squalene, and 4.5% cholesterol. Clogged pores come from a buildup of sebum and dead cells.
The skin's sebum production is largely controlled by hormonal signals, particularly androgens (sex steroids), and is not directly controlled by the application of oils. However, the application of oil influences the skin's perceived need for additional sebum.
Applying oil to your face effectively moisturizes the skin and creates a protective barrier that prevents water loss. This signals to your skin that there's no need to produce excess sebum, thereby reducing oiliness.
Some oils, such as jojoba, closely mimic the structure of human sebum, which tricks the skin into believing it's produced enough oil, thereby reducing sebum production.
While cleansing and exfoliating the skin removes excess sebum and dead cells, it is important to know that over-washing, over-scrubbing, or using harsh cleansers can strip and dry out your skin enough that it starts producing even more sebum. A damaged skin barrier will make acne worse.
The skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, functions as a natural barrier that protects underlying tissue from infection, dehydration, chemicals and mechanical stress. This barrier also regulates transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the process of water evaporation from the skin's surface.
Face oils support the skin barrier and help prevent TEWL in several ways. The lipids in face oils closely resemble those in the skin's lipid matrix, consisting of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. By replenishing these lipids, face oils maintain the integrity of the skin barrier.
Face oils form a light, occlusive layer on the skin's surface, reducing evaporation and thus decreasing TEWL.
Face oils also act as emollients, filling in gaps between skin cells in the stratum corneum. This results in a smoother, more hydrated skin surface.
Essential fatty acids (that the body cannot produce on its own) are crucial for the production of ceramides, a type of lipid that plays a key role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing TEWL. Oils high in linoleic acid directly support the production of your own natural ceramides. PLUS, some oils even contain natural ceramides, so it's a win-win situation.
In addition to these mechanisms, the antioxidants found in face oils protect the skin barrier from damage caused by environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution.
Face oils each possess potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties due to their bioactive compounds.
Inflammation is a common issue that causes redness, irritation, and worsens conditions such as acne and rosacea. Certain oils, like rosehip and argan, are rich in linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. Gamma-linolenic acid, found in borage and evening primrose oil, also reduces inflammation. These fatty acids work by reducing the production of pro-inflammatory molecules called cytokines.
Antioxidants play a crucial role in protecting the skin against oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution. Oxidative stress causes premature aging, skin damage, and various skin conditions. Oils like pomegranate and sea buckthorn are rich in antioxidants such as vitamin E, carotenoids, and polyphenols. These antioxidants neutralize harmful free radicals, preventing them from damaging skin cells and collagen, thus helping to maintain skin health and reduce signs of aging.
Several face oils showcase potent antibacterial and antifungal properties, which can be advantageous for individuals with acne-prone skin. For instance, neem oil is renowned for its extensive antimicrobial properties. It is rich in compounds like nimbin and azadirachtin, which have been shown to effectively combat a variety of bacteria and fungi, including Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria primarily responsible for acne.
Likewise, thyme oil, particularly thymol, one of its main active constituents, has been studied extensively for its antibacterial properties. Thymol disrupts the integrity of bacterial cell membranes, inhibiting their growth and eventually leading to their destruction.
Jojoba oil regulates the skin's natural oils and prevents the overgrowth of Malassezia, a type of yeast implicated in conditions such as dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Additionally, some essential oils are recognized for their robust antifungal properties.
The skin health benefits of face oil are numerous, and all stem from the long list of physiologic properties discussed in the section above.
Hydration and moisturization are different.
Technically speaking, when something is marketed as a hydrating face oil, the wording used is incorrect. This is because oils do not directly hydrate the skin. That really is a semantic debate, however, because using face oils will result in healthy skin that's more hydrated.
Hydration is determined by how much water stays within your cells. Dehydration is due to water loss and is caused by low humidity, aging, UV exposure, low water intake, hot showers, air-conditioned environments, etc. Humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, work by pulling moisture from the air and bringing it to your skin.
Even oily skin can become dehydrated.
Skin dryness is determined by the amount of oil present. Dry skin may feel rough and look flaky. Moisturization traps and seals moisture while building the skin's protective barrier to prevent water loss. Skin that is damaged and irritated will lose water. Dry skin needs emollients to help re-establish the broken barrier.
Face oils work as emollients and moisturize your skin. However, they still improve your overall skin health and hydration because they lock it in and prevent water loss.
This is why face oils are so beneficial for all skin types.
Occasionally. For some people, using face oils alone without other products is enough to keep the skin both fully hydrated and moisturized.
However, even with the simplest skinimalism routines, you often need to add a product with humectants. When layering products with face oils, use the oil last so you seal in all the water-containing products.
We've taken a deep-dive into the world of non-comedogenic oils, but here are the key things to know:
The degree to which a carrier oil causes clogged pores can be classified according to a scale ranging from 0 (extremely unlikely) to 5 (likely).
Oils with a rating of 0-1 are best for all skin types and should be the oils of choice if you have oily skin. They are often referred to as "dry oils" because they are light and penetrate quickly. The chance of clogging pores is extremely low and they are the best for acne and blemish-prone skin.
Oils in the 2-3 range are best for people with normal, dry, or mature skin. They feel a bit heavier at first but will still absorb without leaving a greasy feel. Clogged pores are still unlikely for most people.
Anything rated 4 and 5 should usually be avoided in face products. An example is coconut oil, which is great for your hands and body, but best avoided for your face.
It's also important to remember that pore-clogging doesn't automatically lead to acne. Therefore, while comedogenic ratings can be a useful guideline, they should not be the sole determinant when selecting skincare products.
The Truth: Carrier oils are safe. Some, like sunflower, are extremely unlikely to cause issues and even studied in the hospital population for newborn babies.
However, there is always a "but"... as products get more and more complex and contain higher numbers of ingredients, risks may increase for things like irritation.
Some people may have allergies to certain oils, particularly those derived from nuts. Additionally, overuse of certain essential oils can lead to skin sensitization, causing redness, irritation, or allergic reactions.
Always perform a patch test when trying a new oil, and stop using it if you notice any adverse reactions.
If you're prone to allergy, eczema, or irritation - be careful with essential oils, they may make a product smell amazing, but they are a regular culprit for reactions.
Tea-tree oil is an example that is known to be sensitizing, which means it might work at first, but it can cause inflammation and skin reactions over time.
Another example is babchi seed carrier oil which contains psoralen, a skin irritant. If you're looking to use the amazing ingredient bakuchiol, best to find products containing the pure version and skip the babchi carrier oil.
If you have known allergies or an underlying medical skin disorder, discuss new products with your dermatologist.
The Truth: Most are, but watch the ingredient lists! Emu oil, lanolin, and beeswax might make their way into your oil-based face products. There are vegan alternatives to emu oil that are just as effective.
The Truth: If you're shopping for a commercially prepared face oil, watch out for the ingredient list. A variety of synthetically derived oils and oil-soluble emollients, some of which originate from petroleum, include PEG compounds, or have potential for bioaccumulation, are used in facial oils.
These include mineral oil and petrolatum, both of which are derived from crude oil. PEG (polyethylene glycol) compounds, often used as emulsifiers or penetration enhancers, are also synthetically derived.
Some synthetic oils, such as silicone-based oils like dimethicone, while providing a smooth application and barrier protection, have been scrutinized for their potential to bioaccumulate in the environment.
There is also a dark-side to the plant-based skincare industry that stems from the rampant consumerism and push to rapidly produce the latest 'skin superfood' ingredient. This is why conscious consumerism and buying from brands who are transparent about their corporate ethics is so important.
It's crucial to recognize these components when choosing skincare products, especially for individuals aiming for a pure and natural skincare routine or those who are environmentally conscious.
If you're trying to simplify your routine and get down to a single product or two, facial oils are essential to your routine.
Beauty routines often change based on skin type, condition, and the season of the year. Hormones contribute to skin needs and people who menstruate have cyclic changes.
You may find you need a more occlusive or heavier oil at certain times of the year. However, even in the summer months, light facial oils are important to help prevent water loss from your tissues.
Potentially yes. If you're using any of the oils on this list and they're working for you, quitting isn't necessary. However, here is our list of 18 Worst Oils for the Face with some good explanations for why we prefer the ones listed above.
It's usually fine to just stick with the same oil for whatever purpose you need it for. For example, your favourite oil would be fine for different purposes like guasha, face rolling, or massage. These same principles also apply to men's face oils, beard care, the best hair oils, and the best cleansing oils.
bareLUXE is proud to be a specialist in face oils. There are innumerable options out there and trying new ones is so much fun!
If you're brand-new to using face oil or are worried about your complexion remember this:
After that, the world becomes really exciting and trying different oils (either from your favourite brand or DIY making them at home) is both enjoyable and super-beneficial for your skin.
Most skin types tolerate oils beautifully and natural face oils are an amazing addition to your skincare routine to help restore your natural glow.
Oils are key ingredients in many important skincare products, so eliminate the middle-man and add pure oils to your beauty ritual!
Discover the best face oils with bareLUXE Skincare.
We specialize in scientifically-formulated face oils, merging traditional wisdom with modern data to create oils for every skin type and concern.
Transform Your Beauty Ritual and Explore Our Award-Winning Collection Now
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Diana Draelos Z, Gunt H, Levy SB. Nature-based botanical facial oil oxidative stress protection. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Feb;20(2):522-525. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13879. Epub 2020 Dec 21.
Vaughn AR, Clark AK, Sivamani RK, Shi VY. Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2018 Feb;19(1):103-117.
Nurzyńska-Wierdak R, Pietrasik D, Walasek-Janusz M. Essential Oils in the Treatment of Various Types of Acne-A Review. Plants (Basel). 2022 Dec 24;12(1):90.
Moore EM, Wagner C, Komarnytsky S. The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care. Front Pharmacol. 2020 May 29;11:785.
Couteau C, Diarra H, Lecoq M, Ali A, Bernet M, Coiffard L. The Role of Essential Oils in Homemade Cosmetics: A Study of 140 Recipes. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2023 Jan;16(1):18-24.
Blaak J, Staib P. An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):1-9.
Poljšak N, Kočevar Glavač N. Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies. Front Pharmacol. 2022 Apr 25;13:868461.
Michalak M. Plant-Derived Antioxidants: Significance in Skin Health and the Ageing Process. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Jan 6;23(2):585.
Sarkar R, Podder I, Gokhale N, Jagadeesan S, Garg VK. Use of vegetable oils in dermatology: an overview. Int J Dermatol. 2017 Nov;56(11):1080-1086. doi: 10.1111/ijd.13623. Epub 2017 Apr 19. PMID: 28421610.
Mack Correa MC, Mao G, Saad P, Flach CR, Mendelsohn R, Walters RM. Molecular interactions of plant oil components with stratum corneum lipids correlate with clinical measures of skin barrier function. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Jan;23(1):39-44.
Guidoni M, de Christo Scherer MM, Figueira MM, Schmitt EFP, de Almeida LC, Scherer R, Bogusz S, Fronza M. Fatty acid composition of vegetable oil blend and in vitro effects of pharmacotherapeutical skin care applications. Braz J Med Biol Res. 2019 Feb 14;52(2):e8209.
Ayanlowo O, -Adeife OC, Ilomuanya M, Ebie C, Adegbulu A, Ezeanyache O, Odiase O, Ikebudu V, Akanbi B. African oils in dermatology. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Mar;35(3):e14968.
Stallings AF, Lupo MP. Practical uses of botanicals in skin care. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2009 Jan;2(1):36-40.
Ferreira MS, Magalhães MC, Oliveira R, Sousa-Lobo JM, Almeida IF. Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics. Molecules. 2021 Jun 11;26(12):3584.
Nong Y, Gahoonia N, Rizzo J, Burney W, Sivamani RK, Maloh J. Prospective Evaluation of a Topical Botanical Skin Care Regimen on Mild to Moderate Facial and Truncal Acne and Mood. J Clin Med. 2023 Feb 13;12(4):1484.
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This spotlight article focuses on the active botanical - Pterocarpus marsupium.
While hard to pronounce, you'll want to consider including it in your routine for its anti-aging and skin-brightening effects.
Pterocarpus marsupium, or as it's more commonly known, the Indian Kino Tree or Malabar Kino, is a large, deciduous tree that originally comes from India and Sri Lanka. This plant is seriously respected for its range of health and wellness properties, and it's been a mainstay in traditional and Ayurvedic medicine for a long time. Recently, it's started making waves in the skincare world, and it is a great example of how some of the best ingredients come from a mix of nature and science.
Pterocarpus marsupium is a standout in the Fabaceae family. The heartwood of this tree is prized because it's tough and lasts a long time. But it's actually the bark that's the star of the show - it's loaded with healthy phytochemicals. The tree also produces a reddish resin from its trunk, which has led to its nickname, the "Indian Kino."
This tree has been a key player in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries. Everything from the bark to the leaves and even the resin have been used for a variety of health uses. Traditionally, it's been used to handle things like diabetes, inflammation, and different skin problems, which really highlights how versatile this plant is as a therapeutic resource.
As someone who specializes in natural skincare ingredients, I find the transition from traditional uses to scientific validation a fascinating journey.
The bark, which peels off in large flat pieces, has a surface marked with deep vertical and horizontal fissures. It's within this bark where the magic happens; it is rich in bioactive compounds that offer numerous health benefits.
Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract is a goldmine of beneficial compounds. The bark is full of flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic compounds, all doing their part to boost health in their own unique ways. Epicatechin, a flavonoid, has shown promise in managing blood sugar levels, while the phenolic compounds are praised for their antioxidant powers.
So how powerful is this antioxidant??
Comparing the antioxidant power of one substance to another is tricky. The gold standard can change based on the method used for testing and the concentration of the antioxidant. However, it's worth noting that pterostilbene, a star player in the Indian Kino Tree, might be more powerful than resveratrol, an antioxidant found in things like red wine and berries.
Pterostilbene is a lot like resveratrol but has extra methoxy groups, which could make it more bioavailable and more effective as an antioxidant. That's a big win for skincare since topical antioxidants' success often comes down to how well they can penetrate the skin.
While we still need more research to understand the relative antioxidant power fully, early signs point to Pterocarpus marsupium being a strong source of antioxidants.
Skincare goes far beyond just looking good; it's about feeling good and nourishing your skin to enhance its overall health.
As a natural skincare user and creator, I've seen first-hand the transformative effects of Pterocarpus marsupium extract as an ingredient.
Pterocarpus marsupium benefits start with its antioxidant properties, which come from its rich flavonoid and phenolic compounds. These antioxidants protect the skin from harmful free radicals, slowing down the aging process and enhancing skin's natural glow.
The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of Pterocarpus marsupium are a powerful duo against signs of aging. By protecting against free radical damage and reducing inflammation, this extract helps to maintain the skin's elasticity and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It's a good addition to both anti-aging and anti-inflammaging skincare routines.
The claim to fame for this ingredient is its skin-whitening properties. At a concentration of 90% Pterostilbene, one commercially available form of this ingredient (trademark name Pterowhite -- an active botanical produced by Sabinsa) has been shown to inhibit melanin production in cultured human cells.
In their experiments, it was notable that the skin lightening effect was stronger than both kojic acid and resveratrol.
The whitening properties makes this ingredient a natural alternative to hydroquinone. Although the two ingredients haven't been tested head-to-head in a research trial, consumers who want to treat facial hyperpigmentation in a more natural fashion could consider trying it.
Some small studies, primarily done in animals, have shown pterostilbene to facilitate wound healing and strengthen the skin barrier. This, in conjunction with human data that shows a lack of irritation in users suggests its a safer ingredient for those prone to sensitive skin.
Likely due to the antioxidant power and ability to fight free radicals, pterostilbene has also been studied for sun protective effects. This might be an ingredient that can enhance the effectiveness of suncare products. However, it should not be used as a sunscreen unless products have had proper, formal SPF testing.
While research is still in the early stages, preliminary studies suggest that pterostilbene may have potential anti-cancer properties. It's yet another testament to this ingredients impressive range of benefits.
It's important to note that many skincare ingredients have shown similar anti-tumour possibilities in lab studies, and much of the research has been done on diabetic rats or other animals. Still, the power of nature is inspiring!
Safety is always paramount. As biotechnological advances continue, more and more powerful, concentrated, natural actives will become available. This is usually good! However, side effects like irritation or allergic reactions are always possible - even more so when ultra-concentrated phytochemicals are used.
Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract is considered safe for topical use. However, there is a lot to know when it comes to lightening vs brightening your skin. As with any new skincare ingredient, it's always recommended to conduct a patch test before full application to ensure no allergic reactions occur.
Sustainability is a critical concern in the harvesting and production of ingredients for natural products.
As of the last review in 2017, the IUCN lists this tree as decreasing in population numbers with the potential to become a threatened species - a situation that could become dire by 2050 if climate change continues.
So, although I love the ingredient and its powerful results, it's on the bareLUXE watch list for now. Unfortunately there can be a dark side to plant-based skincare ingredients, one consumers must be aware of.
From a personal perspective, I've seen the effects of Pterocarpus marsupium from my formulations, and the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. It is said to brighten better than kojic acid, likely due to its enhanced penetration - something that may be further enhanced by the fact we deliver this ingredient in an oil-based serum. You can find it featured in our Vitamin C Oil for Brightening.
As research continues to uncover this ingredients potential, I'm confident it will become a staple in many more skincare formulations in the future.
However, the potential for sustainability issues makes it a grey-zone ingredient for me. If demand exceeds supply and if the supply chain cannot prove sustainable practices, then this ingredient may find itself on our cutting room floor.
References
Majeed M, Majeed S, Jain R, Mundkur L, Rajalakshmi HR, Lad PS, Neupane P. An Open-Label Single-Arm, Monocentric Study Assessing the Efficacy and Safety of Natural Pterostilbene (Pterocarpus marsupium) for Skin Brightening and Antiaging Effects. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 Jan 31;13:105-116.
Chaiprasongsuk A, Panich U. Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2. Front Pharmacol. 2022 May 12;13:823881.
Majeed M, Majeed S, Jain R, Mundkur L, Rajalakshmi HR, Lad P, Neupane P. A Randomized Study to Determine the Sun Protection Factor of Natural Pterostilbene from Pterocarpus Marsupium. Cosmetics. 2020; 7(1):16.
Majewski G, Craw J, Falla T. Accelerated Barrier Repair in Human Skin Explants Induced with a Plant-Derived PPAR-α Activating Complex via Cooperative Interactions. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021 Sep 18;14:1271-1293.
Sirerol JA, Feddi F, Mena S, Rodriguez ML, Sirera P, Aupí M, Pérez S, Asensi M, Ortega A, Estrela JM. Topical treatment with pterostilbene, a natural phytoalexin, effectively protects hairless mice against UVB radiation-induced skin damage and carcinogenesis. Free Radic Biol Med. 2015 Aug;85:1-11.
Hu W, Yu H, Zhou X, Li M, Xiao L, Ruan Q, Huang X, Li L, Xie W, Guo X, Yao P. Topical administration of pterostilbene accelerates burn wound healing in diabetes through activation of the HIF1α signaling pathway. Burns. 2022 Sep;48(6):1452-1461.
]]>When it comes to caring for your skin, all of it is equally important and must be properly tended to. However, the skin around the eyes requires different care and attention than the rest of your face. It’s one of the thinnest and most delicate areas of the body, making it prone to conditions such as flaky eyelids. Aside from the eye skin naturally having less collagen and fewer oil glands than other body parts, this sensitive skin can also experience dryness, sagging, roughness, and discoloration through the use of harsh chemicals and improper product application techniques. So, here’s a brief guide to keeping sensitive skin around the eyes healthy and safe from any damage.
The skin around your eyes is at high risk for sun damage due to its thinness and photosensitivity, but it’s often forgotten during sunscreen application. Thus, it helps to use an eye-safe sunscreen with minerals like zinc oxide and titanium oxide, as traditional chemical sunscreens can potentially sting and irritate the eyes. The Supergoop! Bright-Eyed 100% Mineral Eye Cream provides complete protection at SPF 40, as well as color correction with its blend of probiotics, caffeine, and pomegranate.
Wearing sunglasses when outdoors also serves as a physical barrier against harsh sunlight. Even if you currently wear eyeglasses, you can get prescription sunglasses for combined sun protection and vision correction. High-quality, sun-safe frames come in styles like the Ray-Ban Clubmaster for maximum eye coverage and with polarized lenses like Oakley’s Holbrook to prevent ultraviolet rays from damaging your skin and eyes.
Healthy lifestyle habits can also make a huge difference in improving the condition of the skin surrounding your eyes. For diet, among the foods and supplements that can help reduce dark under-eye circles are tomatoes with antioxidants that promote blood circulation, cucumbers that boost collagen production, and vitamin C that can decrease photodamage.
Staying hydrated can also aid in brightening the skin around the eyes and reducing puffiness. Since water flushes out toxins from your system, adequate fluid intake can bring a natural glow and plumpness to the skin around your eyes. In contrast, consuming too much salt, caffeine, and alcohol can worsen dryness.
Another healthy lifestyle technique to help battle dry skin and dark circles is sleep! Chronic fatigue leads to eye bags, dry eyes, puffiness, and dark circles in the thin skin under the eyes.
In terms of skincare, opt for products that are specifically formulated for the eyes or are labeled as eye-safe. Instead of relying on the same moisturizer you use for the rest of your face, use a hydrating and nourishing eye cream. The RoC Retinol Correxion Eye Cream has a gentle formula but still contains active ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration and retinol to improve skin texture and avoid fine lines. If you're looking for a more natural alternative to retinol, the skin care ingredient bakuchiol is effective and does not cause the same issues with dry eyes or eye irritation as retinol.
Incorporating a cleansing oil into your skincare routine is also advisable, considering traditional soap-based cleansers have surfactants, emulsifiers, and preservatives that create an imbalance in the natural layer of sebum on the eyelid skin. As mentioned in a previous post about oil cleansing, this technique benefits the sensitive skin in the eye area not only in terms of removing dirt and pore-clogging impurities for a clear complexion but also in maintaining the skin’s natural pH levels.
Lastly, you can use facial oil serums that are specialized for each skin type, striking the right balance between dissolving excess oil around the eyelids and being gentle enough to protect the skin’s moisture barrier.
At bareLUXE™ Skincare, we offer these products through a base blend of carrier oils with active botanicals that help brighten your skin and prevent signs of aging. Check out the rest of our website to learn more.
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Bamboo powder is a natural skincare ingredient rising in popularity due to its many benefits. Derived from the stems of the bamboo plant, the powder is used extensively for its exfoliating properties. Its granular texture gently removes dead skin cells, making the skin look radiant and smooth. Unlike synthetic exfoliants that can harm your skin and the environment, bamboo powder is a safe and eco-friendly alternative.
In my bareLUXE development journey, I quickly fell in love with bamboo powder as an exfoliating ingredient and also with bamboo as a replacement for plastic in some of our eco-friendly products. It's featured in our award-winning Crystal Infused LUXE Polishing Balm as well as our Zero-Waste Beauty Kit. Check them out if you're shopping.
If you're here to learn more about this fantastic, versatile ingredient, then read on!
Bamboo, scientifically known as Bambusa Vulgaris, is a versatile plant that has been used for centuries in various forms of traditional medicine, particularly in Asia. Its abundant presence in skincare and personal care products today is a testament to its beneficial properties.
One of the lesser-known treasures of the bamboo plant is its sap. Bamboo sap is rich in essential amino acids and minerals, vital for maintaining skin health. These essential amino acids, including alanine, serine, and glycine, are known for their ability to boost collagen production, promoting firmer, smoother skin over time. They also offer anti-inflammatory benefits, helping to soothe irritated or inflamed skin.
The minerals in bamboo sap, such as potassium and calcium, strengthen the skin's moisture barrier. This barrier acts as the skin's first defence against environmental stressors, keeping harmful substances out and locking in hydration. By supporting this protective barrier, bamboo sap helps to maintain skin hydration, preventing dryness and keeping the skin plump and supple.
Extracts derived from the leaves and stems of the bamboo plant pack a powerful punch in skincare. They are known for their high antioxidant content, which helps to protect the skin from harmful free radicals. These free radicals, often a result of environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution, can cause premature skin aging, leading to wrinkles, fine lines, and a loss of elasticity. The antioxidants in bamboo extracts help to neutralize these free radicals, reducing their impact and helping to maintain a youthful complexion.
Furthermore, bamboo extracts are a rich source of natural silica. This mineral is a crucial component of collagen, a protein that gives skin its strength and elasticity. With age, the body's collagen production decreases, leading to sagging skin and wrinkles. The silica in bamboo extracts helps stimulate collagen production, restoring elasticity and reducing the signs of aging.
Bamboo charcoal, or "takesumi" in Japanese, is a specific type of charcoal made directly from the bamboo plant. It's not a mixture of bamboo and charcoal; rather, it's produced by burning bamboo stalks at very high temperatures (800°C to 1200°C) in a process called pyrolysis.
This process, which occurs in a low-oxygen environment, transforms the bamboo into a black, porous, and highly absorbent material – the bamboo charcoal. Because of its high surface area and porosity, bamboo charcoal can attract and hold onto various substances, making it an excellent ingredient in skincare for detoxification and deep-cleaning purposes.
Beyond its direct skincare benefits, bamboo also has an impact on the beauty industry in a different yet equally significant way - as a sustainable alternative to plastic in beauty tools.
Many beauty brands now offer bamboo-handled makeup brushes, toothbrushes, bamboo razors, and even bamboo cotton buds. These products serve as eco-friendly alternatives to their plastic counterparts, helping to reduce the environmental footprint of our daily beauty routines.
Bamboo's durability and natural antimicrobial properties make it an excellent material for such tools. Furthermore, as a fast-growing, renewable resource, bamboo is a more sustainable option, contributing to the reduction of plastic waste in the beauty industry. This way, the bamboo plant extends its benefits beyond skincare products, significantly contributing to the beauty industry's overall sustainability.
Creating bamboo powder starts with the mature bamboo plant, typically between three to five years old. The outer layer of the bamboo stem is carefully removed, washed, and sun-dried to maintain its natural qualities. The dried bamboo is ground into a fine powder, preserving the beneficial silica and other nutrient content.
To ensure product purity and quality, bamboo powder undergoes rigorous testing for contaminants and heavy metals, providing a clean ingredient for skincare products. From the harvest to the final product, every step ensures that the bamboo powder's inherent qualities are retained.
Bamboo extract powder's effectiveness as an exfoliant comes from its unique properties. The powder is rich in silica, a mineral known for its ability to promote skin elasticity and regeneration.
It's also a natural absorbent, drawing out impurities from the skin and helping to unclog pores. The micro-size granules provide a gentle, non-abrasive exfoliation that is suitable even for sensitive skin, making bamboo powder a versatile ingredient.
Compared to other natural exfoliants, bamboo powder stands out for its consistency and purity. Many natural exfoliants like apricot kernels or walnut shells can have inconsistent sizes and sharp edges, which can cause micro-tears in the skin. Bamboo powder, with its micro-fine granules, offers a smoother and gentler exfoliation experience.
Beyond exfoliation, bamboo powder offers a range of skin benefits. Its high silica content plays a vital role in collagen production, a protein responsible for skin strength and elasticity. Bamboo powder also has antioxidant properties, which help to combat free radicals and reduce signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.
Studies have shown that bamboo powder can help regulate sebum production, reducing oiliness and preventing acne breakouts. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe redness and irritation. The gentle nature of bamboo powder makes it suitable for all skin types, from sensitive to oily.
Bamboo is one of Earth's fastest-growing plants, making it a highly renewable resource. In fact, it's considered a weed and can be a very invasive plant if introduced into non-native environments.
It requires less water to grow compared to similar plants and absorbs more carbon dioxide, playing a part in climate change mitigation. The production of bamboo powder supports local communities, providing income and improving livelihoods.
Bamboo cultivation is sustainable unlike other skin care ingredients that might contribute to deforestation or overharvesting. Additionally, it does not require pesticides or chemicals, making it a more environmentally friendly skincare ingredient.
While sustainable skincare can be tricky since consumerism is at the heart of it, using ingredients and materials like bamboo is still an improvement. Reducing beauty industry pollution, microplastics, and non-biodegradable materials will go a long way.
Like any skincare ingredient, the safety and efficacy of bamboo powder are crucial. Scientific literature indicates that bamboo powder is generally safe, with few reported side effects. However, as with any product, individuals may have different reactions and patch testing is recommended before full application.
Moreover, several studies have backed the effectiveness of bamboo powder as an exfoliant and its other skin benefits. Its compatibility with various skin types and its efficacy in dealing with skin concerns like dullness, acne, and aging make it a reliable ingredient in skincare.
The benefits of bamboo powder in skincare are profound. Its natural exfoliating properties, skin benefits, and eco-friendly cultivation make it a standout in the realm of natural skincare. As more individuals seek greener, cleaner skincare products, bamboo powder is becoming a key ingredient to look out for. Embracing bamboo powder not only supports skin health but also contributes to a sustainable future.
Choi MH, Jo HG, Yang JH, Ki SH, Shin HJ. Antioxidative and Anti-Melanogenic Activities of Bamboo Stems (Phyllostachys nigra variety henosis) via PKA/CREB-Mediated MITF Downregulation in B16F10 Melanoma Cells. Int J Mol Sci. 2018 Jan 30;19(2):409.
Tundis R, Augimeri G, Vivacqua A, Romeo R, Sicari V, Bonofiglio D, Loizzo MR. Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Effects of Leaves and Sheath from Bamboo (Phyllostacys edulis J. Houz). Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Jun 8;12(6):1239.
Gu Y, Xue F, Xiao H, Chen L, Zhang Y. Bamboo Leaf Flavonoids Suppress Oxidative Stress-Induced Senescence of HaCaT Cells and UVB-Induced Photoaging of Mice through p38 MAPK and Autophagy Signaling. Nutrients. 2022 Feb 14;14(4):793.
Pinsky MA. Efficacy and Safety of an Anti-aging Technology for the Treatment of Facial Wrinkles and Skin Moisturization. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Dec;10(12):27-35. Epub 2017 Dec 1.
]]>Understanding the world of face oils can feel like solving a complex puzzle.
As a skincare formulator specializing in face oils and oil serums, I've spent countless hours navigating this labyrinth. Today, I'm sharing my insights not as definitive judgments but as nuanced observations, aiming to shed light on which oils I believe are the worst oils for face care and should not be a part of your beauty routine.
With that said, there's no such thing as an outright "bad" oil. Each oil has a unique blend of fatty acids, potential benefits, and downsides. Some may work wonders on one skin type but may be less beneficial for others. Some are good for body or hair care but not as suitable for facial care. Some might work great for you, but not for the majority of skincare product users.
Suitability for use on the skin and face is only one aspect that informs my opinions. The impact of these oils isn't just skin-deep. The way they're sourced, their environmental footprint, and the ethical concerns around their production add several layers to this narrative.
When you think of face oils, you automatically think "all-natural," which is usually true. However, targeting natural ingredients is only the tip of the iceberg when designing a product for your face.
Many of these oils have a role in skincare; small amounts of some of them even land themselves in one of our products for one reason or another. However, these oils are far from our list of favourites, and most should just be avoided for the face altogether.
In our quest for better skincare, specific characteristics might bump an oil onto the bareLUXE bad list:
The purpose of this article isn't to demonize certain oils but to arm you, the informed consumer, with knowledge. By understanding these nuances, you can make skincare choices that align with your skin's needs and your values and ethics.
So, let's delve in and uncover the lesser-known side of these oils.
Issue: Comedogenic
Wheat germ oil is derived from the germ of the wheat kernel, a highly nutritious part packed with vitamins and minerals. However, its use in facial skincare is controversial due to its high comedogenic rating, which means it's likely to clog pores and potentially lead to acne breakouts.
Comedogenicity refers to an oil's tendency to clog pores, resulting in blackheads or pimples. The scale ranges from 0 (non-comedogenic) to 5 (highly comedogenic), and Wheat Germ Oil rates a 5!
Wheat germ oil does have a higher amount of oleic acid (around 25%), but that doesn't explain why pore-clogging is so likely. The reason is that wheat germ oil is rich in diglycerides, where two fatty acid chains are bound to a glycerol molecule. These diglycerides are more polar (charge-distributing) molecules that interact with skin lipids in a way that can clog pores. It is also a very viscous oil, partly due to high levels of vitamin E (which is sticky).
It has a thicker consistency and doesn't get absorbed into the skin as readily. This leads to an occlusive layer on the skin surface, furthering the potential for pore blockage, making it one of the worst for acne.
Issue: Comedogenic
Coconut oil has a comedogenic rating of 4, meaning it is highly likely to clog pores, which can lead to acne flare-ups. The primary reason for this is its high concentration of lauric acid, a type of saturated fatty acid that makes up about 50% of the fatty acid content in coconut oil.
As a saturated fat, coconut oil is solid at room temperature, with a dense, heavy texture that can sit on the skin's surface, trapping sebum and dead skin cells underneath and increasing the risk of pore blockage and acne.
Despite the popularity of coconut oil in DIY skincare due to its hydration and antimicrobial benefits, its pore-clogging potential suggests that it's best avoided on the face, particularly for those with oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin types.
Issue: Comedogenic
Marula oil is extracted from the kernels of the marula tree, native to Africa. Rich in oleic acid, vitamin E, and antioxidants, this oil is praised for its hydrating and protective properties. However, its high oleic acid content can cause issues for certain skin types.
Oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid, comprises about 70-78% of marula oil. This fatty acid is known for its moisturizing properties, but its thicker, heavier nature can be problematic for acne-prone or oily skin. It tends to sit on the skin's surface, creating a barrier that can trap sebum and dead skin cells underneath, leading to clogged pores and potential breakouts.
Alternatives with a lower oleic acid content and a higher proportion of linoleic acid may be more suitable for these skin types.
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability, Humanitarian, Common Allergen
Like wheat germ oil, soybean oil has unique characteristics that elevate its potential to clog pores, even though it might not appear the most comedogenic based solely on its fatty acid composition.
Soybean oil has a unique property: it has a high phytosterol content, especially beta-sitosterol and stigmasterol. While these compounds have been associated with potential anti-inflammatory and cholesterol-lowering effects when ingested, topically, they can affect the skin's lipid barrier and may contribute to pore-clogging by influencing sebum production and the function of pores.
Moreover, soybean oil is a common allergen, with soy allergies being one of the most prevalent food allergies globally. Topical application in sensitive individuals can lead to inflammation and irritation, increasing the likelihood of pore blockage.
Lastly, it's important to consider the sustainability and humanitarian issues with soybean oil. Soybean cultivation significantly contributes to deforestation, especially in the Amazon rainforest. Moreover, soybean cultivation often involves the heavy use of pesticides and fertilizers, contributing to pollution and ecological disruption. Soybean cultivation has been associated with land rights issues, particularly in developing countries where large tracts of land are often used for mono-cropping soy. This can result in displacement of local communities, loss of biodiversity, and alteration of local ecosystems.
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability
Corn oil, derived from the germ of corn kernels, has a more balanced fatty acid profile and is moderately pore-clogging (comedogenic rating of 3). We avoid any oils higher than 2 for face oils.
A more important concern with corn oil is the sustainability side of things. From an environmental standpoint, corn farming has significant implications. Large-scale corn production often involves intensive farming practices and heavy pesticide use and contributes to soil degradation, posing environmental and sustainability concerns.
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability
Cottonseed oil has a few concerns that have secured its place on our bareLUXE Bad list. Although it's less commonly found in skincare products than other oils, it is problematic, especially for the face, and isn't worth trying.
In addition to its pore-clogging potential, cottonseed oil comes with environmental concerns - it's considered a very dirty crop to grow. Cotton is one of the most chemically intensive crops to grow, and many pesticides and synthetic fertilizers are used during its cultivation. These practices contribute to soil degradation, water contamination, and harm to local biodiversity.
Moreover, extracting oil from cottonseeds is energy-intensive, often requiring chemical solvents that can further pollute the environment. These factors combined give cottonseed oil a high environmental footprint, which should be considered when considering holistic skincare.
Issue: Comedogenic
Flax or Linseed oil, derived from the seeds of the flax plant, is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and touted for its anti-inflammatory benefits (in nutrition). Alpha-linolenic acid can oxidize quickly when exposed to light and heat, potentially leading to skin irritation. Plus, flaxseed oil is known for its thick consistency, which can clog pores and contribute to acne, particularly in oily or acne-prone skin.
So keep this one on your salad, not your face!
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability, Humanitarian
Palm oil, sourced from the fruit of the oil palm tree, is rich in vitamins A and E and has emollient properties. However, it has 44% palmitic acid, a saturated fat that is highly pore-clogging. Using straight palm oil on your face is a recipe for acne breakouts.
Palm oil derivatives make it into innumerable skincare formulation ingredients. Palm oil production is a primary driver of deforestation in countries like Indonesia and Malaysia, leading to significant environmental concerns, including loss of biodiversity and increased carbon emissions.
Moreover, the palm oil industry is frequently criticized for poor working conditions and labour rights violations, raising serious humanitarian concerns.
Efforts to improve environmental and humanitarian issues exist, and progress is occurring. Avoiding palm oil-derived ingredients is nearly impossible, so paying close attention to supply chain analysis and ethical source confirmation is critical.
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability, Inflammatory
Olive oil, renowned worldwide for its benefits in a heart-healthy diet, often surprises people when it appears on a list of less-desirable facial oils. But when we dig into the details, the reasons become clear.
Looking at the fatty acid composition of olive oil, we find:
The research on olive oil's inflammation potential is less clear-cut. Some studies suggest that it has anti-inflammatory properties thanks to its rich antioxidant content, including vitamin E and polyphenols. However, other research indicates that olive oil can disrupt the skin's barrier function, leading to dryness and potential irritation over time. This disruption could indirectly increase inflammation, particularly in sensitive or already inflamed skin.
When it comes to the sustainability of olive oil, there are both positive aspects and challenges.
On the positive side, olive trees are remarkably resilient and can thrive in poor soil conditions and harsh climates. This hardiness allows them to grow in areas where other crops might struggle, and they can produce fruit (and therefore oil) for many decades, sometimes even centuries. Furthermore, olive trees can help combat soil erosion and contribute to biodiversity, providing habitats for many species.
However, olive farming can be water-intensive, particularly in the Mediterranean region, where water scarcity is a growing concern. While traditional dry-farming techniques can mitigate this to an extent, irrigation is increasingly used to maximize yields, which can strain local water supplies.
Another significant concern is the waste produced during olive oil extraction. Olive mill wastewater is rich in organic compounds and can be challenging to dispose of sustainably. It can contaminate water bodies if not properly treated, although initiatives to repurpose this waste into bioenergy or fertilizer are gaining traction.
Finally, the demand for olive oil, particularly high-quality extra virgin olive oil, has led to instances of fraud and mislabeling. This not only misleads consumers but can also drive unsustainable farming and production practices as producers seek to cut costs.
Issue: Animal Cruelty
Emu oil is derived from the fat of the emu bird. It's been touted for its anti-inflammatory and skin-softening properties. However, as an animal-derived product, it raises ethical concerns.
The production of emu oil involves the slaughter of emus, which brings up animal rights issues. Those who prefer vegan or cruelty-free skincare options would likely opt for plant-derived oils that offer similar benefits without the associated ethical concerns.
Issue: Animal Cruelty
Mink oil is obtained from the fat of minks. It's rich in palmitoleic acid, an omega-7 fatty acid known for moisturizing properties. However, mink oil production involves significant ethical issues as it relies on mink farming, which is widely criticized for its inhumane practices.
Moreover, mink oil can potentially be pore-clogging and lead to breakouts in acne-prone individuals. Thus, given its potential for skin issues and the ethical concerns involved in its production, mink oil is generally not recommended for facial skincare.
Issue: Animal Cruelty, Common Allergen
Lanolin, a wax secreted by the sebaceous glands of sheep, is often used in skincare for its emollient properties. However, lanolin is known to be a common allergen, potentially causing skin irritation and contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
Furthermore, as an animal-derived ingredient, lanolin may not be suitable for those adhering to vegan or cruelty-free skincare practices. For these reasons, it's advisable to use lanolin cautiously, particularly for sensitive or allergy-prone skin.
Issue: Comedogenic, Animal Cruelty
Tallow is a type of rendered fat traditionally derived from beef or mutton. It's been used in skincare for centuries due to its skin-similar composition. However, tallow's high saturated fat content can potentially clog pores and contribute to breakouts, making it a less-than-ideal choice for acne-prone or oily skin types.
In addition to the pore-clogging concerns, the use of tallow raises ethical issues, particularly for those who prefer cruelty-free or vegan skincare options. As an animal-based product, the use of tallow necessitates the slaughter of animals, which poses a moral dilemma for many consumers.
Issue: Animal Cruelty
Squalane, a hydrogenated form of squalene, is a naturally occurring compound in our skin that plays a crucial role in hydration and barrier function. Traditionally, squalane was derived from the liver of sharks, particularly deep-sea sharks. Shark-derived squalane is compatible with our skin due to its biomimetic nature.
However, the extraction process involves the killing of sharks, leading to significant ethical and sustainability concerns. It contributes to the endangerment of shark species and disrupts marine ecosystems. Due to these concerns, many cosmetic companies have shifted to plant-derived squalane (e.g., from sugarcane).
Issue: Petrochemical Industry
Mineral oil, a byproduct of petroleum refinement, is often used in skincare due to its occlusive properties, helping to prevent water loss from the skin. Contrary to popular opinion, it's actually unlikely to clog pores, and it really isn't one of the worst skin oils.
However, the sourcing of mineral oil raises environmental concerns due to its connection with the petrochemical industry, which contributes to pollution and climate change. Additionally, while highly refined mineral oil is considered safe for cosmetic use, concerns persist over potential contamination with harmful substances.
As we said before, face oils are meant to be natural, and mineral oil is about as unnatural as you can get.
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability, Common Allergen
The high oleic acid content in peanut oil (>50%) could potentially lead to clogged pores, especially for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. It's not as high as in some other oils on this list, but when combined with peanut oil's other potential issues, it adds to the concerns.
Undoubtedly, the most significant issue with peanut oil in skincare is its allergenicity. Peanuts are one of the most common food allergens, and even though the allergy is usually associated with ingestion, it can also manifest with topical application in sensitive individuals. Reactions can range from minor skin irritation to severe allergic responses, which can be life-threatening in the most extreme cases.
Peanuts require a significant amount of water and are often grown in regions where water scarcity is a concern. In addition, peanut cultivation can contribute to soil degradation and is often linked with the heavy use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, which can impact local ecosystems and pollute water sources.
All things considered, peanut oil's potential benefits for skin health are overshadowed by its allergenicity, potential to clog pores and environmental footprint.
It's another example of an oil that may be better kept in the kitchen rather than on your vanity.
Issue: Comedogenic, Sustainability, Inflammatory
Canola oil, despite its widespread use in the kitchen, makes its way onto our bareLUXE Bad list for several reasons, primarily related to its environmental impact and potential for causing inflammation.
Pore clogging and inflammation are common due to the high and unbalanced oleic acid level (>65%). This is due to the ratio of Omega-6 to Omega-3 fatty acids. While both are necessary for skin health, an excess of Omega-6 fatty acids can contribute to inflammation.
Canola, or rapeseed, is a high-yield crop, meaning farmers often choose it to maximize their profits. This leads to mono-cropping, a practice that depletes soil nutrients, reduces biodiversity, and makes ecosystems more vulnerable to pests and diseases. This, in turn, results in the heavy use of pesticides and fertilizers.
Moreover, much of the canola oil on the market is genetically modified (GM). While the safety of GM crops for human consumption is a hotly debated topic, their impact on biodiversity is a definite concern. Cross-pollination with non-GM crops can reduce genetic diversity and increase vulnerability to diseases and pests.
Issue: Comedogenic, Inflammatory
While sunflower oil is typically high in linoleic acid and excellent for your skin, a variant known as high oleic sunflower oil contains elevated levels of oleic acid. While this monounsaturated fatty acid has skin-nourishing benefits, an overabundance can potentially disrupt the skin barrier, leading to inflammation and exacerbating skin conditions like acne.
We wouldn't dream of leaving you hanging. If you're looking for a face oil that's versatile and essentially guaranteed to be compatible with your skin, find a high-quality, plant-based squalane and start there.
If you want to dive deep into the options, start with our face oil guide and then, check out our list of favourites specific to your own skin type and needs:
Navigating the world of facial oils can often feel like stepping into a labyrinth. With so many oils on the market, each with its unique composition and purported benefits, it can be challenging to know what will work best for your skin and align with your values.
However, the shades of grey we've discussed remind us that these oils aren't inherently 'bad.' In specific contexts and formulations, many of them can offer notable benefits. Some can contribute positively to sustainability and humanitarian efforts when responsibly sourced and used. The key is understanding potential trade-offs, making informed decisions, and always listening to your skin's responses.
Remember, skincare is personal. What works for one person might not work for another, and that's okay. The world of facial oils is vast and diverse, offering ample opportunities to find what suits your skin needs and aligns with your convictions.
Your journey in skincare is about finding a balance – between your skin's needs, your health, your values, and the impact your choices have on the wider world.
]]>It can be confusing.
The reason it's confusing is because the answer is yes and no; however, for most people the answer is no. Most people should avoid using coconut oil on the face.
The skin on your body is different from the skin on your face, and the body benefits from coconut oil much more than the face.
In my education and deep research into all things related to carrier oils, I've learned exactly what makes one oil better or worse for the face - and I'll answer that for you in this article.
By the end of this read, you'll be better equipped to weigh the pros and cons of incorporating coconut oil into your skincare routine - and you'll know exactly where, when, and how best to use it.
Oils made from seeds and nuts comprise the bulk of what is used today in the skincare industry. Many have unique properties that aren't found in many (or sometimes any) other oils.
Some examples: pomegranate oil has punicic acid, abyssinian oil has erucic acid, ricinoleic acid is found in castor oil, and borage and evening primrose oils are full of GLA. Each oil is unique, and the phytochemical composition and fatty acid profile make them (or break them) as a face oil.
Coconut oil is entirely different from other oils. The phytochemicals and fatty acids are opposite of what you find in many other oils.
The main difference? Coconut oil contains saturated fats and medium-chain fatty acids.
The primary fatty acid in coconut oil is lauric acid, which accounts for approximately 50% of its total fatty acid content. In addition, coconut oil contains other medium-chain fatty acids such as capric, caprylic, and myristic acid, contributing to its moisturizing properties.
Unlike most other oils that contain high amounts of mono and poly unsaturated fats, coconut oil is primarily composed of saturated fats—particularly medium-chain fatty acids (MCFAs), giving it its unique characteristics.
At the heart of coconut oil's uniqueness is lauric acid—a saturated, medium-chain fatty acid that makes up around 50% of the oil's total fatty acid content. It's worth noting that lauric acid has demonstrated antimicrobial properties, offering protection against certain bacteria, viruses, and fungi.
Aside from lauric acid, coconut oil contains capric, caprylic, and myristic acids, each contributing to its moisturizing properties and overall skin benefits.
Fatty acids are vital for skin health. They help maintain the skin barrier, retain moisture, and reduce inflammation. However, not all fatty acids have the same effect on the skin.
For instance, while linoleic acid (found in high amounts in oils like safflower and sunflower) is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to unclog pores, oleic acid (abundant in oils like olive and avocado) is more occlusive. It can potentially block pores, leading to breakouts, especially in those with acne-prone skin. Having a proper balance between the two is what makes some oils, like argan (which contains high levels of both), so versatile. The oleic acid moisturizes and the linoleic acid reduces inflammation and free radical damage. This ratio between oleic and linoleic acid is why marula oil also makes it onto our list of oils to avoid for your face.
Coconut oil's primary fatty acid, lauric acid, is a saturated fat with small molecular size due to its medium-chain structure. Being a small molecule allows the lauric acid to penetrate the skin more easily. While this provides excellent moisturizing benefits, it can also get into pores, leading to blockages and acne.
With a comedogenicity score of 4-5, coconut oil is best for moisturizing your body, not your face.
Bottom line, does coconut oil clog pores? Yes, for a large proportion of people. If you want a safer alternative, look for non-comedogenic oils instead.
Inflammation is the body's natural response to injury, including skin damage. Fatty acids play a crucial role in managing this response. For example, omega-3 fatty acids exhibit potent anti-inflammatory properties, like alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) found in flaxseed oil and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) in borage and evening primrose oils.
Unfortunately, coconut oil lacks these anti-inflammatory omegas and is not considered an anti-inflammatory oil.
So, coconut oil offers excellent benefits for specific skincare needs due to its unique fatty acid profile. However, it is not the best choice for facial skincare, especially for those with pore-clogging or inflammation concerns. Instead, other oils rich in linoleic acid, ALA, or GLA offer more beneficial properties for face care.
Where coconut oil really shines is for use on other parts of your body.
Coconut oil has a long history of use for personal care purposes - body moisturizer, massage oil, cuticle treatment, stretch mark treatment, hair oil, cleansing oil, personal lubricant for intimate activity - the list goes on and on.
The main benefits of coconut oil are in its ability to richly moisturize and deeply nourish. That makes it the most useful for your body as a moisturizer or massage oil.
Diving into an excitingly different use, did you know this tropical treasure can also spice up your intimate moments as a natural sexual lubricant? Coconut oil, known for its skin moisturizing properties, can provide much-needed slickness and comfort during intimacy.
It has been shown to be effective in reducing friction during sexual activities due to its higher viscosity and lubricity. Furthermore, organic coconut oil is free from harmful chemicals and synthetic ingredients, making it a safer choice for sensitive areas.
Several clinical studies have also confirmed its effectiveness and safety in intimate situations. However, it's critical to note that while coconut oil is safe for skin application, it's not compatible with latex condoms.
Coconut oil makes its way onto the top of our list of best hair oils. Specifically, dry hair benefits most.
Deep Conditioning: Coconut oil is known to penetrate deeper than other conditioners, as it is composed of 90% saturated fat, which helps to nourish dry skin and hair from within.
Detangling: Due to its slick nature, coconut oil helps to untangle stubborn knots, which can significantly reduce hair breakage.
Shine and Softness: Regular use of coconut oil can give your hair a glossy shine and make it soft to touch.
Scalp Health: Its antimicrobial properties can help to treat common scalp care issues such as dandruff.
Remember, it's best to use hair oils at night before you know you'll shampoo the next morning. Don't do extra washing! Just shampoo like you normally would.
If you're looking for a beard oil or balm, be cautious with coconut oil. Although it's excellent for hair, the pores on your face are still much more likely to clog. If your beard and face are extremely dry, trying it is reasonable. However, there are still better oils and butters for facial hair that don't have the pore-clogging risk.
When used as a cleanser, coconut oil can penetrate deeply, promoting a healthy and radiant glow. It can also be used as a gentle yet effective makeup remover, including for waterproof makeup.
Due to the issues with pore-clogging, coconut oil should be used as step-1 for the 2-step oil cleansing method. We would not recommend it be used as a cleansing oil alone unless you will be doing step 2 to make sure you've removed the excess. Since unclogging pores is the name of the game, if you're worried you can still use other oils for cleansing.
I know some of you are thinking - but I always use coconut oil, and my face looks great! If that's you, then keep doing it!
The most important thing about any facial skincare product or treatment is that it is tailored to your skin type and that you have the results you're looking for.
Many people use and swear by coconut oil for the face. Even though it's generally not best for everyone, if it works for you, then don't stop. There is no harm. When it comes to face oils, the nuances are vast and everybody's skin is different.
The people who use coconut oil on their face and see the most benefits are those with very dry skin. People with oily skin and acne are best to avoid it. Sensitive skin is usually ok to try unless there is a known allergy or sensitivity.
Regarding skin colour, there is some internet back-and-forth about whether coconut oil is specifically better (or worse) for black skin. As a skincare formulator, I recognize how little research goes into determining the best ingredients for melanin-rich skin. I think the same rules apply no matter where your skin falls on the Fitzpatrick scale - pore clogging is pore clogging, and if you suffer from it, then you should not use coconut oil on your face.
You might be surprised to learn the substantial statistics connected to coconut farming and its implications for the beauty industry.
The worldwide demand for coconut oil is increasing due to its perceived health and beauty advantages.
Coconut farming is mainly in developing countries, which leaves potential for agricultural or humanitarian exploitation.
The spike in demand may cause deforestation, soil erosion, and even exploitation of local farmers.
According to a recent report, coconut farming is responsible for 1.5 million hectares of deforestation in Southeast Asia alone, and the annual rate of deforestation is increasing by 5%. Furthermore, the majority of coconut farmers suffer from poverty, with wages falling well below the minimum wage in most countries.
Another staggering statistic is this: according to IUCN's Red List of Threatened Species (divided by the global oil production for each crop), coconut threatens 18.3 species for every 1 million tons of oil produced, they report. Those numbers for olive oil and palm oil are 4.1 and 3.8 species, respectively; for sunflower oil, it's 0.05.
Though the glossy appeal of your favourite products can be inviting, an uncomfortable truth is hidden behind them: the harsh labour practices in the coconut farming industry. Unmasking this reality, the production of coconut oil has a substantial social impact.
Coconut farmers, mostly in developing countries, are not adequately compensated for their labour. Reports suggest that wages are low and working conditions are often poor, with some farmers earning less than $1 per day.
As an informed consumer, it is essential to be aware of these issues and choose brands that guarantee fair labour practices. Your selection of coconut oil can either perpetuate these problems or contribute to a meaningful transformation of the coconut farming industry.
You can use a range of natural oils for your face instead of coconut oil. We have written extensively about face oil and have linked to many of our articles throughout this one. Even though coconut oil might be a good option for some people with dry skin, check out this list of the best oils for dry skin to get started on an approach that is much less likely to clog pores or cause breakouts.
If you specifically have oily skin or acne, this is our article on the best face oils for acne-prone skin.
Yes, some people may experience allergic reactions to coconut oil when used for skincare. Symptoms can include redness, itching, swelling, and hives. Always patch-test a new product before applying it to your face, and talk to your dermatologist if you're worried.
Coconut oil tends to be less expensive than other popular facial oils like argan or jojoba oil. However, prices can vary depending on the brand, the quality of the oil, and where you purchase it. If you find a high-quality, organic, fair-trade supply, then you're going to pay a premium - but it's worth it.
References
Varma SR, Sivaprakasam TO, Arumugam I, Dilip N, Raghuraman M, Pavan KB, Rafiq M, Paramesh R. In vitro anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of Virgin coconut oil. J Tradit Complement Med. 2018 Jan 17;9(1):5-14.
Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70.
Agero AL, Verallo-Rowell VM. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatitis. 2004 Sep;15(3):109-16.
Nevin KG, Rajamohan T. Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2010;23(6):290-7.
Saxena R, Mittal P, Clavaud C, Dhakan DB, Roy N, Breton L, Misra N, Sharma VK. Longitudinal study of the scalp microbiome suggests coconut oil to enrich healthy scalp commensals. Sci Rep. 2021 Mar 31;11(1):7220.
]]>As part of our ongoing series on the best face oils, almond oil (or sweet almond oil as it's usually called) wins a top spot for its soothing and versatile abilities as a carrier oil that's great for massage or gua sha, and as a facial oil, cleansing oil, hair oil, and more!
Sweet almond oil is derived from sweet almonds and is rich in Vitamin E and monounsaturated fatty acids.
It's widely used in skincare products due to its moisturizing, anti-aging, and hair-nurturing properties.
Sweet almond oil is non-comedogenic and won't clog pores. It's best for those with dry and maturing skin.
Almond oil is a powerhouse of nutrients that comes from sweet almonds. It is rich in Vitamin E, monounsaturated fatty acids, and minerals, all essential for healthy skin and hair. Sweet almond oil is widely used in skincare products due to its immense benefits. It is a fantastic natural moisturizer that soothes dry skin, reduces dark circles, and minimizes signs of aging; it can also promote hair growth, add shine, and reduce scalp inflammation.
The benefits of almond oil are backed by science. Research suggests that the antioxidants found in almond oil can help protect the skin from sun damage and reduce inflammation. The fatty acids help make skin softer and smoother and help keep hair hydrated and healthy, which can help reduces breakage and split ends.
Almond oil production is relatively straightforward. The process begins with the harvesting of ripe almonds, specifically sweet almonds.
Ripe almonds are harvested and dried using a specific temperature range of 38-44°C. This temperature range helps to reduce moisture content, which makes the oil extraction process easier.
The dried almonds are cold-pressed using a hydraulic or expeller press. This method helps preserve the almond oils' nutrients, making them a potent carrier oil for various essential oils.
The oil is filtered to remove any remaining solids and impurities. This filtration process ensures the final product is pure and ready for use.
The result? A golden, nutrient-rich oil full of fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals, perfect for nourishing and rejuvenating your skin and hair.
Almond oil is an umbrella that could refer to oils made from sweet or bitter almonds.
Sweet almond oil comes from the edible almonds that we enjoy snacking on. It's packed with vitamins E and K. It is known for its beneficial skincare properties, such as moisturizing and reducing inflammation. For reasons you'll read next, sweet almond oil is generally the only version that makes it into skin or hair products.
Bitter almond oil comes from a different variety of almond trees, which yields a bitter taste. When processed correctly, it's used as a flavouring or scenting agent. Bitter almonds' unique, intense flavour is used in small amounts to give a characteristic taste to products such as marzipan and amaretto. However, because of the phytochemical amygdalin, which converts to cyanide (!), bitter almonds are not safe for ingestion or use as an oil unless properly processed.
In general, if you see almond oil on the ingredient list of a skincare product, you can assume that sweet almond oil was the variety used. The botanical name for this is Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis. If you see bitter almond listed (Prunus Amygdalus Amara), you might want to dig a bit deeper to be sure it was processed by a reputable manufacturer. Also, it is a known skin irritant, so maybe just pass it all together.
Sweet almond oil stands out for its rich blend of nutritious fats and myriad bioactive compounds.
Fatty Acid Profile
The majority of sweet almond oil consists of beneficial fatty acids, specifically:
Oleic Acid (Omega-9): This monounsaturated fat constitutes around 60-75% of sweet almond oil. It's known for its moisturizing and skin-regenerative attributes.
Linoleic Acid (Omega-6): Making up approximately 20-30% of sweet almond oil, this polyunsaturated fat plays a critical role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preserving its moisture.
Palmitic Acid and Stearic Acid: These saturated fats make up about 1-2% of sweet almond oil and maintain the oil's texture and stability.
The high oleic acid levels make this an excellent oil for dry skin. The high levels of linoleic acid make this a balanced fatty acid profile, so people experience soothing, anti-inflammatory, and non-comedogenic results.
Phytochemical Profile
Sweet almond oil is also rich in bioactive compounds that provide various therapeutic effects:
Vitamin E (Tocopherol): An abundant source of Vitamin E, sweet almond oil contains about 0.5-1mg per gram of this potent antioxidant that defends skin cells against free radical damage.
Phytosterols: Almond oil contains about 100-200mg/kg of these compounds, which structurally resemble cholesterol and assist in preserving the skin's barrier function.
Squalene: Sweet almond oil features significant levels of this natural skin lipid component known for its moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
Phenolic Compounds: These antioxidants are present in small quantities, generally less than 1% of the oil's total composition, but contribute to the protective and anti-aging benefits.
A note about the phytochemical amygdalin: Unlike bitter almond, sweet almond contains only trace amounts of amygdalin, the compound that can break down into toxic cyanide. This makes it safe.
Almond oil is versatile! As a facial oil, a body massage oil, a hair oil, and a cleansing oil - it makes it onto our list of favourites for pretty much all of them.
Used as a skincare ingredient because of its soothing and gentle properties, it has a subtle, sweet scent that makes it more exotic than other carrier oils. For skin care, almond oil benefits both body and facial skin alike.
Here are a few more benefits of using almond oil on your face or body:
High linoleic acid levels are soothing, anti-inflammatory, and help strengthen the skin barrier
Oleic acid is a powerful emollient that moisturizes and protects skin.
Vitamins A and E, plus antioxidants that fight off free radicals and help repair damaged skin cells.
As a full-body massage oil, it can help keep skin supple and potentially ease stretch marks.
By deeply penetrating the skin barrier, sweet almond oil provides your complexion with long-lasting moisturization. This helps to keep the skin looking plump and vibrant.
Almond oil benefits may exist for people with eczema because of its nourishing properties. However, it's always best to review new products with your dermatologist if you have an underlying skin disorder like eczema or psoriasis.
Almond oil is another natural oil on our list of best oils for hair.
Topical application to the scalp provides deep nourishment to hair strands, strengthening them from the roots to the tips. Vitamin E, a potent antioxidant that guards the hair against environmental stressors and UV radiation, helps prevent breakage and split ends. Its lightweight, non-greasy texture makes it an excellent natural conditioner, adding silkiness and shine to the hair without weighing it down. The Omega-6 fatty acids in sweet almond oil regulate oil production on the scalp, maintaining its health while encouraging robust hair growth.
Regularly applying this nutrient-rich oil can transform your hair, leaving it strong, glossy, and full of life.
Due to its delicate scent, almond oil boosts the luxury factor when included in an oil cleanser. This mild, hypoallergenic oil is suitable for sensitive skin types and effectively dissolves excess sebum and impurities. While not specifically astringent or toning, sweet almond oil's gentle cleansing properties make it an excellent choice for the oil cleansing method.
Almond oil is rated 2/5 on the comedogenicity scale.
The higher proportion of oleic acid makes this oil best for people with normal to dry and mature skin. However, it's balanced with the anti-inflammatory effects of linoleic acid, so sweet almond oil is non-comedogenic.
If you have acne-prone or oily skin, you will benefit more from the drier oils, but it's still safe to try almond facial oil without expecting it to cause a breakout.
The Prunus dulcis tree is a member of the Rosaceae family, and its nuts contain proteins that are known allergens. Allergic reactions can range from mild itching, redness or hives to more severe symptoms such as anaphylaxis.
Proteins are generally removed during the refining process because they are not oil-soluble. This means that if people have a nut allergy, almond oil could be safe. However, the issue is that cross-contamination of protein particles could still occur, although rare. Refined almond oil is subject to various steps that should remove proteins, but severely allergic people should still be aware.
If you have a known nut allergy, especially if severe, skip the almond oil. There are so many other oils with similar benefits; it's just not worth the risk.
Almond farming and the subsequent production of almond oil present unique sustainability and humanitarian challenges and opportunities that need to be considered.
Water Use
One of the most prominent concerns related to almond farming is water use. Almonds are a water-intensive crop, with one almond requiring about 12 litres of water to grow. This is particularly significant in areas like California, which produces about 80% of the world's almonds but frequently experiences drought. Advances in irrigation technology and strategies, such as micro-irrigation systems and regulated deficit irrigation, are being implemented to reduce water consumption.
Bee Health
Almond farming also heavily relies on bee pollination. Nearly two-thirds of the commercial bees in the U.S. are brought to California each year to help pollinate the almond orchards. This mass migration of bees can spread diseases and pests within bee populations, impacting bee health. Farmers and researchers are exploring practices like planting wildflowers and cover crops to provide more diverse food sources for bees and better management practices to protect bee health. Almonds are very pollinator-friendly plants, provided they are grown without pesticides!
Labour Rights
From a humanitarian perspective, there are labour rights considerations, especially concerning harvesting. Almond harvesting is labour-intensive and often involves migrant workers who may be vulnerable to exploitation. Fairtrade certifications and initiatives can help ensure workers are paid fairly and work under safe conditions.
Waste Management
Almond farming can generate significant waste, but opportunities exist for sustainable waste management. The almond shells can be used as livestock bedding, while the hard outer hull can be turned into a sweet livestock feed. Innovatively, some companies are looking into using almond waste to generate electricity, thus turning a potential problem into a sustainable solution.
While these sustainability and humanitarian challenges are significant, the almond industry has proactively acknowledged and addressed these issues. With ongoing research and implementation of sustainable and fair practices, the aim is to make the production of almonds and almond oil more sustainable and socially responsible.
References
Ahmad Z. The uses and properties of almond oil. Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2010 Feb;16(1):10-2. doi: 10.1016/j.ctcp.2009.06.015. Epub 2009 Jul 15.
Ouzir M, Bernoussi SE, Tabyaoui M, Taghzouti K. Almond oil: A comprehensive review of chemical composition, extraction methods, preservation conditions, potential health benefits, and safety. Compr Rev Food Sci Food Saf. 2021 Jul;20(4):3344-3387. doi: 10.1111/1541-4337.12752. Epub 2021 May 30.
Blaak J, Staib P. An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):1-9. doi: 10.1111/ics.12758. Epub 2022 Jan 17.
]]>You've likely heard the term 'peptides' floating around in the skincare world. But what exactly are they, and why are they touted as a key ingredient in many skin rejuvenation products?
At a time when skincare technology is continuously advancing, peptides are emerging as a huge player in the beauty industry. However, before you start incorporating them into your skincare regimen, it's crucial to understand what this buzzword means and how they work (or don't work) at the cellular level.
The power of peptides for skin goes beyond just collagen production. Some peptides also perform other functions, such as regulating melanin production, which can help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Others can help improve hydration by strengthening the skin barrier, resulting in plumper, smoother skin. Meanwhile, specific peptides have anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.
Incorporating products with peptides into your skincare routine could be a game-changer. They're found in various products, from serums and creams to masks and eye treatments. And because they're generally well-tolerated, they can be used by almost anyone, regardless of skin type or sensitivity.
A peptide is a short chain of amino acids grouped (think about 16-30). A protein is a long chain of amino acids (think 2000-3000) organized into a specific shape that will give structure and function.
Muscle and connective tissues like collagen are examples of proteins coming together to form a functional unit. These proteins are the foundations of your skin and are responsible for its texture, strength, and resilience. If you think of a paper chain, think of the individual rings as amino acids. Link a few together into short segments, and you have a peptide. String together a large number, and your long paper chain is a functional protein, like collagen.
Approximately 22 amino acids exist - you may have heard names like arginine, cysteine, phenylalanine, and tryptophan. Most are made by cells within our own bodies. Some, similar to the essential fatty acids, must be supplied by diet 100% as we cannot manufacture them ourselves.
When you apply peptides in your skincare products, they're designed to penetrate the top layer of your skin and send signals to your cells to let them know how to function effectively.
The role of a topical peptide applied to the skin is to penetrate and reach the cells and signal them to do something - increase collagen or decrease melanin are two examples.
Sounds amazing right?
There are a few issues that make peptides less desirable.
First, brands are NOT allowed to discuss the benefits of any product in relation to effects at a cellular level. If they do, they are crossing into making drug claims, and they should be expecting a letter from the FDA. Even using the word collagen can get dicey if the language is misused. Many brands push the limits - consider how many products you've seen advertised to "stimulate collagen production." Those claims are usually a no-no, and the brand can get in trouble.
Second, no standardization or formalized guidelines for use or clinical testing is required for proof of efficacy. A brand can just put some protein into a jar, call it a peptide, and off it goes to market. When there actually is some clinical testing done (either by the manufacturer or the brand), sample sizes are very low, and commercial bias is significant.
What does this mean? It means consumers need to be educated about the ingredients they're interested in using and the marketing techniques and scientific evidence (or lack thereof) surrounding them.
Like so many things in cosmetics, there isn't a standard definition of a peptide. Generally speaking, when brands discuss peptides, they refer to a functional unit of amino acids designed to tell cells what to do.
In general, the ingredient list will contain the word peptide: Palmitoyl pentapeptide (a.k.a. Matrixyl™, Matrixyl™ 3000), Acetyl tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl hexapeptide 3, 8, and 20, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Tripeptide 1, etc. Many of these are patented molecules, and many have a good amount of evidence backing up their effectiveness.
Other ingredients, like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil soluble Vitamin C) work on similar pathways, but with different mechanisms.
A signal peptide is a short peptide (i.e. 20 amino acids long) that, when present, tells your cell to manufacture a specific protein like collagen. When your skin is stressed or damaged, it signals that it needs assistance. Signal peptides are designed to communicate with your skin cells, instructing them to produce more collagen, elastin, and other essential proteins that keep your skin looking healthy and young.
Phyto-peptide is a newer word used to describe peptide molecules that are synthesized from plant-derived amino acid sources. Remember, not all peptides are vegan, and many ingredients (like collagen) can only come from animals. Harnessing the power of plants as well as biofermentation processes has opened up a world of botanical-based peptides with skin benefits.
Most peptides used in skin care are water-soluble due to their bioavailability and ease of formulation. The idea of oil-soluble peptides in skincare is intriguing because oil-based products tend to have better skin penetration. However, making peptides oil-soluble can be challenging due to their naturally polar, water-attracting characteristics.
Some oil-soluble peptides do exist, but they are rare. Two good examples are Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, a phyto-peptide associated with firming and plumping, and Undecylenoyl phenylalanine, associated with lightening and brightening.
While peptides are widely celebrated in the skincare industry for their promising benefits, like any other active ingredient, they're not without potential downsides. Here are a few considerations to keep in mind:
Limited Research: While there's a growing body of evidence supporting the benefits of peptides in skincare, some experts argue that more extensive, long-term studies are needed. Many of the current studies are conducted by companies that produce peptide-based products, which can potentially introduce bias.
Skin Penetration: We already know that using large proteins like collagen topically on your skin really has no effect because it doesn't penetrate. Despite being smaller, peptides are still fairly large molecules, and there's an ongoing debate about how effectively they can penetrate the skin to reach the deeper layers where they can stimulate collagen production. Some peptides may not penetrate the skin deeply enough to provide significant benefits.
Product Stability: Peptides can be unstable and may break down when exposed to light and air. Therefore, they require careful formulation and packaging to maintain their effectiveness.
Cost: Skincare products containing peptides can be expensive. While some people see significant benefits, others might not find the cost justified by the results.
Interaction with Other Ingredients: Peptides can react with certain other ingredients, which might render them less effective by breaking down the peptide bonds and reducing them back into non-functional amino acids.
These potential downsides don't necessarily mean you should avoid peptides; they're just factors to consider. Anti-aging skincare routines are filled with options.
The future of peptides in skincare is looking bright, with new peptide products being developed that are more effective and have fewer side effects than their predecessors. One of the most promising emerging trends is the use of copper peptides, which are known for their ability to promote skin regeneration and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
As these trends continue to evolve, it's becoming clear that peptides will play a crucial role in the skincare industry's future. Here are some insights into what that might look like:
More advanced peptide products: Innovation is at the heart of the skincare industry, and peptides are no exception. As our understanding of peptides increases, we can expect to see more advanced products on the market. These could include products with a higher concentration of peptides, or products that combine peptides with other beneficial ingredients, like growth factors and conditioned media, to enhance their effects.
The rise of copper peptides: Copper peptides are already making a splash in the skincare industry. They've been shown to have a range of benefits, from promoting skin regeneration to reducing inflammation. We could see an even greater emphasis on these powerful peptides in the future.
Increased understanding of peptide benefits: As research into peptides continues, we're likely to gain a better understanding of their benefits. This could lead to the development of peptide products targeted at specific skin concerns, such as acne or hyperpigmentation. With the future of peptides in skincare looking so promising, the possibilities seem endless.
Natural peptides in skincare originate from plant or animal proteins, retaining their natural properties. Synthetic peptides, made in labs, mimic natural ones, often enhanced for specific effects. Both types effectively boost collagen production.
Yes, it's rare but possible. Symptoms may include redness, swelling, or itching. Always patch-test new products to ensure your skin won't react adversely. Always check with your dermatologist or primary care physician if you're worried.
It typically takes around 6-12 weeks to see noticeable results from using peptide-based skincare products. However, it varies based on individual skin type, the specific product used, and the frequency of application.
Yes, peptides in skincare are generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin. However, everyone's skin is unique, so it's crucial to do a patch test before fully incorporating any new product into your routine.
The role of peptides in skin care is expanding at a rapid rate. They're often included in moisturizers and serums designed to target aging, and they're often combined with other active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
While skin barrier repair, decreasing melanin production, and plumping are common targets, collagen production is usually the main goal with topical peptides. Dermatologists are a bit divided on efficacy as the evidence exists but needs to be strengthened. However, peptides are an important anti-aging ingredient to consider when building your routine.
References
Jeong S, Yoon S, Kim S, Jung J, Kor M, Shin K, Lim C, Han HS, Lee H, Park KY, Kim J, Chung HJ, Kim HJ. Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression. Int J Mol Sci. 2019 Dec 20;21(1):73.
Rovero P, Malgapo DMH, Sparavigna A, Beilin G, Wong V, Lao MP. The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2022 Dec 14;15:2693-2703.
Skibska A, Perlikowska R. Signal Peptides - Promising Ingredients in Cosmetics. Curr Protein Pept Sci. 2021;22(10):716-728.
Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702.
Nguyen TQ, Zahr AS, Kononov T, Ablon G. A Randomized, Double-blind, Placebo-controlled Clinical Study Investigating the Efficacy and Tolerability of a Peptide Serum Targeting Expression Lines. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2021 May;14(5):14-21. Epub 2021 May 1.
]]>You're likely no stranger to natural skincare remedies and oils, but have you heard of Eclipta alba? It's a powerful herb used in traditional medicine for centuries, gaining recognition in the beauty industry for its impressive benefits.
Often referred to as 'Bhringraj,' this plant is packed with antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and potent phytochemicals that can transform your hair and skin. Native to India, this herb is a cornerstone in Ayurvedic medicine for its powerful healing properties. It's loaded with antioxidants, flavonoids, and coumestans, compounds shown to promote hair growth and skin health.
This article will provide a comprehensive guide on Eclipta alba, delving into its origins, impact on skincare, and profound effects on hair health.
With regular use, you might find Eclipta alba the secret ingredient your hair and skin have been craving.
Eclipta alba is a plant teeming with beneficial fatty acids and phytochemicals.
It originates from India and has a storied history of use in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, showcasing its remarkable versatility and efficacy.
Also known as the false daisy, this little plant hails from the sunflower family. Reaching a modest height of just 40-60cm, this tropical native has an understated appeal that is as practical as it is versatile. This tough and adaptable plant thrives in warm, moist climates.
The true charm of Eclipta alba comes alive during the summer and fall. Small, composite flowers, each no larger than 6-8mm, punctuate the plant with bursts of white – an elegant contrast to the verdant green.
The active compounds found in Eclipta alba play a significant role in its effectiveness as a skincare and haircare ingredient. These include a variety of fatty acids and an array of phytochemicals.
Here's a simple breakdown of the key components found in Eclipta alba:
Fatty Acids: rich in linoleic acid and oleic acid, known to moisturize, heal, and protect the skin and hair, giving them a healthy glow.
Ecliptine: the primary active compound in Eclipta alba. It's been found to promote hair growth and improve hair health overall.
Flavonoids: powerful antioxidants that protect the skin and hair from environmental stressors. They also have anti-inflammatory properties.
Triterpenoids: compounds with potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making them excellent for problem skin.
Sterols: help to fortify the skin's barrier, maintaining moisture and protecting the skin from harmful external factors.
Eclipta alba's combination of fatty acids and phytochemicals provides a comprehensive package for hair and skin health — no wonder this plant has been revered for centuries in traditional medicine for its remarkable benefits.
As a skincare formulator who is also a medical physician, I tread carefully when exploring the traditional uses of the ingredients I choose to design my products. I don't apply herbalism or traditional knowledge to my medical practice; I keep those worlds separate. However, I'm also incredibly mindful that I'm just a visitor in this space. Cultural appropriation is rampant in the beauty industry, and my job primarily is to observe and learn.
Eclipta alba is Bhringraj in Ayurveda and Han Lian Cao in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). In Ayurveda, Bhringraj is revered as a rejuvenator, believed to balance the body's energies and promote hair health. Similarly, TCM employs Han Lian Cao to nourish the liver and kidneys, purportedly addressing symptoms of premature aging. Contemporary studies hint at these benefits, with findings suggesting antioxidant and hair growth-promoting properties. However, more research is required for a fuller understanding.
It's crucial to appreciate these medicinal systems' cultural heritage while studying herbal benefits. As a skincare formulator, this traditional wisdom offers exciting possibilities to explore, always with the support of rigorous science and a deep respect for its cultural origins.
Although its use is focused on haircare, there are plenty of Eclipta alba skin benefits as a facial oil. Because of the emphasis on hair benefits, this humble plant is often overlooked as a skincare ingredient. It's rich in flavonoids and coumestans, compounds that are renowned for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. These components help to soothe irritated skin, combat free radical damage, and prevent premature aging.
Here are a few key Eclipta alba benefits for skin:
It has potent anti-inflammatory properties. This means that it can help to reduce redness, swelling, and irritation caused by conditions like acne or rosacea.
Packed with antioxidants, Eclipta alba helps to neutralize harmful free radicals. This can protect your skin from environmental damage and slow down the aging process.
Eclipta alba can also stimulate collagen production. This helps to maintain your skin's elasticity and firmness, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Now that we've touched on the skin benefits, let's focus on where this oil really shines - hair care!
First, you need to know that Eclipta alba oil and Bhringraj oil are the same thing. Eclipta alba is the herb from which the oil is made. The herb is used in other ways for traditional medicine (leaves, stems, powder, etc.). Once infused into an oil, it is more commonly called Bhringraj oil in the Indian literature, but Eclipta alba oil is the same.
Unlike seed-based, cold-pressed oils, this oil is made through an infusion process. The leaves and stems of the plant are soaked (or mashed or heated) in carrier oil, and then the final oil is eventually filtered, leaving a clear product.
Bhringraj oil has numerous benefits for your hair. Here are a few that might sway you to give this natural remedy a try:
These benefits make Bhringraj oil a powerful natural solution for hair care. Incorporating it into your hair care routine could be a game-changer.
Eclipta alba, also known as Bhringraj in Ayurvedic medicine, is known for its hair growth-promoting capabilities. The use of Bhringraj oil for hair care is backed by science, not just tradition. It's rich in minerals and vitamins that nourish the scalp and strengthen the hair follicles, making them less prone to damage and breakage. It's been found to extend the anagen phase of hair growth, which is when your hair is actively growing. This means that consistent use of Eclipta alba oil can result in thicker, longer hair over time.
The main active compounds in Eclipta alba oil, like ecliptine and wedelolactone, have been shown to stimulate hair growth. They work by increasing blood circulation in the scalp, which leads to a better nutrient supply to the hair follicles, ultimately promoting healthier and faster hair growth.
In addition, these compounds have potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that can help combat scalp infections, one of the significant causes of hair loss.
A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology found that hair treated with Eclipta alba extract showed a significant increase in the number of hair follicles, suggesting that it can stimulate hair growth effectively. Furthermore, it's believed to prolong the anagen phase (the growth phase) of the hair cycle, resulting in longer, stronger hair.
However, like most natural remedies, results won't be instant. There is also a lot more research needed before drawing conclusions that this is a miracle cure for baldness or thinning. Still, the evidence is interesting and if you're looking for a natural hair oil, choosing one with Bhringraj oil makes sense.
To start, you need to apply Eclipta alba oil directly to your scalp. Gently massage it in circular motions for a few minutes to stimulate blood circulation, which helps with nutrient absorption, allowing the oil to penetrate deeper into your hair roots. Our article on the best hair oils goes through some great tips for properly using hair oil and avoiding any unwanted greasiness.
It's recommended to leave the oil in your hair for at least an hour before washing it off. For the best results, repeat this process twice a week. Regular application of Eclipta alba oil not only strengthens the hair but also promotes growth, reduces hair fall, and gives your hair a natural shine.
There are no specific issues or controversies linked to the growth or harvesting of this plant. It does require a lot of water, which can be intense for local water resources if not managed responsibly.
The work involved in the cultivation and extraction of Bhringraj oil can be labour-intensive, and it's critical that workers are paid fair wages and provided with safe working conditions. The demand for Bhringraj oil should not lead to the displacement of local communities or the destruction of their traditional ways of life. Therefore, ethical sourcing and fair trade practices are key in the production of Bhringraj oil.
Reactions to Eclipta alba are uncommon as it's not a common allergen or irritant. However, there are always risks of a reaction, and every person has different skin and sensitivities. Patch testing is always recommended, as-is discussing your skincare regimen with your dermatologist if you're worried.
Absolutely, you can combine Eclipta alba with other natural ingredients like amla or coconut oil for enhanced hair benefits. This mix amplifies hair growth, skin nourishment, and overall wellness properties.
Typically, you'll notice improvements in your hair and skin after about 6-8 weeks of consistent use of Eclipta alba. However, it's important to remember that results can vary based on individual differences.
Eclipta alba is the name of the herb/plant. Many parts of the plant are used in medicinal practices (leaves, stems, etc.). The oil is extracted through the process of infusion with another carrier oil. Once extracted, then Eclipta alba oil and Bhringraj oil are the same thing.
Just another name for Eclipta alba. The taxonomy of naming rules just gets a bit confusing sometimes. 🤷♀️
Yes! If you're deciding between a beard oil vs balm, Eclipta alba could be an ingredient in either.
This humble plant, also known as Bhringraj, has been used for centuries in traditional Ayurvedic practices due to its potent properties that benefit hair and skin health. It's packed with beneficial compounds like ecliptine and wedelolactone, which are known to stimulate hair growth and improve skin texture. The plant's antioxidants also fight against aging and skin damage, providing you with a youthful glow. It's a true natural marvel, offering great value in terms of hair and skincare.
Let's not forget the research that backs up these benefits. Multiple studies have shown the efficiency of Eclipta alba in promoting hair growth and reducing hair fall. It's not just an old wives' tale; it's a scientifically validated solution to your hair and skin woes.
References
Begum S, Lee MR, Gu LJ, Hossain MJ, Kim HK, Sung CK. Comparative hair restorer efficacy of medicinal herb on nude (Foxn1nu) mice. Biomed Res Int. 2014;2014:319795.
Roy RK, Thakur M, Dixit VK. Hair growth promoting activity of Eclipta alba in male albino rats. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008 Aug;300(7):357-64.
Datta K, Singh AT, Mukherjee A, Bhat B, Ramesh B, Burman AC. Eclipta alba extract with potential for hair growth promoting activity. J Ethnopharmacol. 2009 Jul 30;124(3):450-6.
Begum S, Lee MR, Gu LJ, Hossain J, Sung CK. Exogenous stimulation with Eclipta alba promotes hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and downregulates TGF-β1 expression in nude mice. Int J Mol Med. 2015 Feb;35(2):496-502.
Lee KH, Choi D, Jeong SI, Kim SJ, Lee CH, Seo HS, Jeong HS. Eclipta prostrata promotes the induction of anagen, sustains the anagen phase through regulation of FGF-7 and FGF-5. Pharm Biol. 2019 Dec;57(1):105-111.
Jahan R, Al-Nahain A, Majumder S, Rahmatullah M. Ethnopharmacological Significance of Eclipta alba (L.) Hassk. (Asteraceae). Int Sch Res Notices. 2014 Oct 29;2014:385969.
]]>Achieving that clear, radiant skin isn't an elusive dream. With a bit of skincare savvy and the right practices, you can win the battle against clogged pores.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore how to unclog pores using multiple different modalities so you can tailor a routine to your own skin type. We'll cover the details about what causes them to clog, how to unclog pores safely and effectively, plus tips for keeping them clean.
Whether you're new to skincare or looking to up your game, there's something in here for everyone.
Clogged pores are caused by a range of factors, including excess sebum, accumulation of dead skin cells, environmental pollutants, hormonal changes, diet, makeup residue, sweat, and stress.
Unclogging methods range from pore strips and steaming to the use of clay masks, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), salicylic acid, retinoids, and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).
Professional treatments like facials, extractions, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and hydrodermabrasion also offer effective solutions to unclog pores.
A consistent skincare routine involving cleansing, a good face toner, moisturizers, an exfoliant, and occasional treatments can help prevent pore congestion and maintain healthy skin. Consistency is key!
The tiny spots that pepper our skin are often simplistically referred to as 'pores.' Yet, these seemingly insignificant dots serve as gateways to a more complex world beneath the skin's surface.
Primarily, what we perceive as a 'pore' on our face is, in fact, the opening of a hair follicle. Each hair follicle comes with an associated sebaceous gland. These sebaceous glands produce sebum, an oily substance that moisturizes and safeguards our skin against environmental damage. This sebum journeys from the sebaceous gland, up the hair follicle, and out onto the skin's surface through the follicular pore.
Apart from these follicular pores, our skin also features a vast network of eccrine sweat glands. Unlike the sebaceous glands, eccrine glands are not directly associated with hair follicles. They open onto the skin's surface through their separate ducts and are not generally visible. Especially abundant on the face, hands, and feet, these glands produce a clear, odorless sweat that aids in regulating our body temperature. The sweat produced in armpits and groins contains a different type of sweat (from apocrine glands) which is associated with body odour.
In essence, the 'pores' we see and often seek to 'shrink' or unclog in our skincare endeavors are entrances to an intricate world of hair follicles and glands, each playing its part in maintaining our skin's health and functionality.
While some people may have naturally larger pores due to genetics or aging-related factors, it is crucial to keep them clean and free from debris accumulation that might lead to clogged pores resulting in blackheads or acne formation.
Understanding the difference between whiteheads, blackheads, and sebaceous filaments can not only help identify skin conditions but also guide you towards the most effective treatment methods.
Normal pores carry out their function quietly and effectively. They allow sebum to flow freely, keeping our skin moisturized and defended. Usually, these microscopic dots are unnoticeable, reflecting a state of balanced skin.
Open comedones (blackheads) and closed comedones (whiteheads) are signs of pores running into trouble. When dead skin cells and excess sebum clog the pores, they manifest as these pesky skin concerns. Blackheads are open pores that have had their contents oxidized, turning them a noticeable black color. Whiteheads, conversely, are pores clogged in a similar way, but their opening is barely visible, trapping the debris underneath the skin's surface, giving it a white or skin-colored appearance.
When pores become inflamed and infected, we see the formation of pimples, pustules, nodules, or cysts - all types of inflamed pores that signal skin distress.
Beyond blackheads and whiteheads, there are sebaceous filaments. These are tiny collections of sebum around a hair follicle and are an entirely normal part of our skin's architecture. They're most noticeable on oilier parts of the face and are not a form of acne, despite their appearance. Nose pores are particularly prone to these filaments.
It's worth noting that what may appear to be large or sagging pores could actually be acne scars. For instance, 'ice pick' scars create deep, narrow indentations, while 'boxcar' scars resemble the aftermath of chickenpox. These scars, resulting from previous inflammatory acne, are more noticeable than normal pores and call for different skincare approaches.
There is another phenomenon called a Dilated Pore of Winer. This is a benign skin condition characterized by a single, noticeably large pore filled with keratin, a type of protein found in the skin. It's named after the dermatologist, Louis H. Winer, who first described the condition. They typically occur in areas of the body where there's significant sun exposure such as the face, neck, or back. The Dilated Pore of Winer essentially is a giant blackhead. However, unlike regular blackheads, they can be much larger in size, and they are a permanent enlargement of a single pore.
If you're unsure whether a skin feature is an acne scar or a dilated pore, it's advisable to consult with a dermatologist to ensure the right diagnosis and treatment plan.
Clogged pores and congested skin are a common nuisance, leading to undesirable skin issues like blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. Several factors contribute to the clogging of pores, some of which we can control, while others are a result of our natural biology or environment. Here are some key causes and contributors that lead to clogged pores:
Excessive Sebum Production: Overactive sebaceous glands can produce too much oil (sebum), which can mix with dead skin cells to clog pores.
Dead Skin Cells: Our skin naturally sheds millions of skin cells each day. If they don't shed properly, they can accumulate and clog pores.
Makeup: Certain makeup products, especially those that are oil-based or aren't non-comedogenic, can clog pores.
Dirt and Pollution: Environmental pollutants can settle on the skin, mixing with the skin's natural oils and leading to clogged pores.
Sweat: Excessive sweating, especially if not cleaned off promptly, can contribute to clogged pores.
Hormonal Changes: Fluctuations in hormones, such as during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, or menopause, can increase oil production and lead to clogged pores.
Diet: Some research suggests that certain foods, particularly those high in fats and sugars, may contribute to acne, potentially by promoting clogged pores. Poor hydration can also play a role.
Improper Skincare Routine: Not cleansing or exfoliating regularly, or using inappropriate products for your skin type, can lead to an accumulation of oil, dirt, and dead skin cells.
Genetics: Some people naturally have larger pores or oilier skin due to their genetic makeup, making them more prone to clogged pores.
Stress: High stress levels can cause hormonal imbalances that increase oil production, potentially leading to clogged pores.
A well-rounded skincare routine goes beyond just beauty — it also plays a pivotal role in maintaining the health and functionality of your skin, particularly your pores.
Cleansing is an essential step in any skincare routine, but it's not just about removing makeup or the grime of the day. The right cleanser can remove excess oil and impurities that can clog pores and cause acne. Ideally, cleansing should be a gentle process, twice daily — morning and night — to keep your pores clear without disrupting your skin's natural protective barrier. Read more about the oil cleansing method and 2-step cleansing for tips targeting your skin type.
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. This can be done with either physical exfoliants (like a scrub) or chemical exfoliants (like alpha and beta hydroxy acids). Regular, gentle exfoliation can prevent pore clogging and give your skin a healthier, more glowing appearance. But be careful: over-exfoliation can strip your skin of its essential oils and lead to dryness or irritation, that's why we really like PHA (polyhydroxy acids) for chemical exfoliation.
While it can be tempting to use strong products to clean your skin thoroughly, they can often do more harm than good. Harsh cleansers and toners can strip your skin of its natural oils and disrupt the delicate balance of your skin's microbiome. This can lead to dry, irritated skin and paradoxically, an overproduction of oil that might result in clogged pores.
Your skin's pH and microbiome are crucial for maintaining a healthy skin barrier and preventing clogged pores. Skin's natural pH is slightly acidic, around 5.5, and keeping it within this range can help keep harmful bacteria in check. The skin microbiome, the community of beneficial microorganisms living on your skin, also play a role in protecting against pathogens and regulating inflammation. Using gentle, pH-balanced skincare products can help maintain this delicate equilibrium.
Certain ingredients in skincare and makeup products can clog your pores, leading to blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. These are known as 'comedogenic' ingredients. Common culprits include certain oils like coconut, silicones, and synthetic dyes. Always check the ingredient list and look for products labeled 'non-comedogenic.' Here is our list of the worst face oils to watch out for, but here is our list of non-comedogenic oils to use instead!
One of the golden rules in maintaining the health of your skin and the integrity of your pores is to avoid picking at or popping pimples. Engaging in this tempting but detrimental habit can exacerbate skin inflammation, introduce bacteria from your fingers into the pores, and worst of all, risk scarring.
Even though popping that pimple might seem to offer instant gratification and a quick fix, in reality, it can cause the breakout to last longer and potentially lead to a more permanent mark or indentation.
While staying well-hydrated is beneficial for your overall health, when it comes to skincare, it's also about keeping your skin's moisture levels balanced. Using a good moisturizer can lock in hydration, prevent transepidermal water loss, and maintain your skin's barrier function. Hydrated skin is more pliable and less prone to chapping or flaking, both of which can lead to clogged pores.
It may not seem directly related, but using sunscreen daily is actually an integral part of maintaining healthy pores. UV radiation from the sun not only accelerates skin aging, but it can also trigger inflammation and excess oil production. By protecting your skin from harmful sun exposure, you can help prevent sun-induced pore clogging and keep your skin healthy and vibrant.
"Shrinking" pores is a common skincare goal, but it's important to note that you can't physically change the actual size of your pores. However, you can minimize the appearance of your pores. When pores are clean and free of excessive oil and dead skin cells, they tend to look smaller.
If you're trying to figure out how to unclog pores, here is a list of options you might consider depending on your skin type:
A pore strip is a popular over-the-counter product designed to provide immediate, albeit temporary, relief from blackheads, particularly in the nose area. They work like a sticky tape: when applied to a wet nose, allowed to dry, and then peeled off, they adhere to and pull out the tops of blackheads, along with any other surface debris.
While they can give the satisfaction of seeing visible results on the strip, it's important to note that pore strips only address the surface of the problem. They do not penetrate the pores deeply enough to fully unclog them or prevent future blackheads. Plus, their adhesive can be irritating for some people, especially those with sensitive skin.
Furthermore, pore strips do not differentiate between blackheads and sebaceous filaments. The latter are natural parts of the skin's follicles and help to channel the flow of sebum along the lining of the pore. Removing them can lead to increased sebum production and potentially more blackheads.
Pore vacuums, also known as blackhead vacuums, are handheld devices that use suction to extract the contents of clogged pores. They've gained popularity thanks to the immediate visual feedback they can provide, similar to pore strips. Also the art of physically vacuuming feels like a very deep pore cleaning - users find satisfaction in seeing the oil, dead skin, and other impurities physically removed from their skin.
However, it's essential to use these devices with caution. If used incorrectly, pore vacuums can cause skin damage. Excessive suction or repeatedly going over the same area can lead to bruising, broken capillaries, or skin irritation.
Before using a pore vacuum, it's advisable to loosen debris by steaming the face or using a warm towel to help make the extraction process easier. Avoid using the device on sensitive skin, broken skin, or areas with rosacea or severe acne.
When considering a pore vacuum for at-home use, several factors should be taken into account:
Pore vacuum safety: Ensure the device is FDA-approved and made by a reputable manufacturer.
Suction power levels: Devices should have adjustable suction settings to cater to individual skin types and sensitivities.
Vacuum maintenance: Regular cleaning of the device will help maintain its effectiveness and prevent bacterial buildup.
Device selection tips: Choose a pore vacuum that includes multiple nozzle sizes to treat different areas of the face effectively.
Vacuum frequency: Overuse can lead to skin irritation; follow manufacturer recommendations regarding usage frequency.
The concept of steaming has been part of skincare routines for generations, often touted for its ability to 'open' pores and prepare the skin for further treatment. However, the truth is that pores do not have muscles to allow them to open and close.
Steaming helps to soften the surface layer of the skin and the sebum within the pores, making it easier to cleanse or extract impurities such as blackheads or whiteheads. This can create the perception of 'opened' pores. Moreover, the warm steam increases skin's temperature which leads to perspiration, helping to bring impurities to the surface.
Another benefit of facial steaming is that it promotes skin hydration. The warmth from the steam can increase perspiration and skin's permeability, allowing better absorption of skincare products applied after the steam treatment.
A powerful technique for deep cleansing and unclogging pores is through the use of clay masks. Clay masks have been used for centuries as an effective skincare treatment due to their numerous benefits. They are known for their ability to absorb excess oil, impurities, and toxins from the skin's surface while also gently exfoliating dead skin cells.
The particles in clay masks are quite large and aren't able to settle deeply into pores. Instead, they work mainly on the skin's surface, making them effective at pulling out surface-level impurities. It's important to use clay masks correctly to avoid potential skin issues. For instance, leaving a clay mask on for too long can overly dry out the skin, disrupting the skin's natural barrier and leading to potential irritation and dryness. After using a clay mask, it's also crucial to rinse the face thoroughly to ensure all the clay is removed from the skin surface.
With diverse options available such as green clay, bentonite clay, kaolin clay, multani mitti, French clay, and Rhassoul clay— individuals can select the most suitable type based on their unique skin types and concerns.
Activated charcoal boasts potent adsorption properties, meaning it can 'stick' to and draw out dirt, oil, and toxins from your skin. When applied as a mask, it acts like a magnet to pull out these pore-clogging impurities, leaving your skin deeply cleansed and refreshed. It's especially beneficial for those with oily skin as it can help control excess sebum production, further preventing the buildup of impurities in the pores.
However, it's important to remember that while effective, charcoal masks can be drying and should be used sparingly, ideally no more than once a week. After each use, follow up with a non-comedogenic moisturizer to restore hydration and keep your skin balanced.
Utilizing salicylic acid in skincare routines can significantly aid in addressing clogged pores, as this beta hydroxy acid (BHA) possesses potent exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. Commonly found in acne treatments such as cleansers, toners, and spot treatments, salicylic acid works by breaking down keratin plugs, which are a combination of dead skin cells and sebum that accumulate within the pores.
In addition to its deep-cleansing abilities, salicylic acid also helps to reduce swelling and redness associated with acne breakouts. A popular option for incorporating salicylic acid into one's skincare routine is through the use of a salicylic cleanser. This type of facial wash aids in unclogging pores while simultaneously providing gentle exfoliation through chemical means.
Another effective approach to promoting healthy skin and preventing acne is incorporating alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) into your skincare regimen, as these naturally occurring compounds gently exfoliate the skin, stimulate cell renewal, and improve overall complexion.
Some common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid, each of which offers unique AHA benefits that cater to various skin types and concerns. For instance, glycolic acid has smaller molecules that penetrate deeper into the skin layers for a more intense exfoliation experience while lactic acid provides a milder alternative suitable for sensitive skin solutions.
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A that work by increasing cell turnover and exfoliation, thereby helping to prevent clogged pores, reduce acne, and improve overall skin texture.
Purging (initial breakouts) is a common but temporary phenomenon experienced by some users as the retinoids hasten cell turnover, which ultimately leads to clearer skin. While it may take several weeks or even months of consistent use to see noticeable results, patience and perseverance in using retinoid products can significantly improve your skin's health and appearance over time
Bakuchiol is a natural replacement for retinol that won't cause purging and will help acne, so check it out if you have sensitive skin or are looking for a retinol alternative.
Sebum, the natural oil produced by your skin, plays a critical role in maintaining skin health by providing hydration and protection. However, when produced in excess, it can lead to clogged pores. Balancing sebum production is, therefore, a crucial aspect of pore care.
Using a non-comedogenic face oil is a great option for sebum regulation for many people. This may be a new concept for some people (I mean, how does oil help regulate oil?!), so if you're worried you should start with the best face oils for oily skin.
Additionally, incorporating products with ingredients like niacinamide, which has been shown to help balance sebum production, can be beneficial. It's also important to avoid harsh, drying skincare products; they can stimulate your skin to produce more oil in an attempt to compensate for the dryness.
In the pursuit of smoother, more refined skin, microneedling has emerged as a promising player. This procedure, also known as collagen induction therapy, involves the use of tiny, sterile needles to create micro-punctures in the skin. This process might sound intimidating, but it’s a controlled and minimally invasive way to kickstart your skin's natural healing process.
As a response to these micro-injuries, your skin ramps up collagen and elastin production, two proteins vital for maintaining firmness and elasticity.
The result? Improved skin texture, reduction in the appearance of scars, and even reducing the size of enlarged pores. This treatment will not unclog pores and should not be performed during active acne breakouts, but it will help to minimize the appearance of large pores by improving collagen quality.
While it's an efficient method to encourage skin rejuvenation, it's essential to have this procedure performed by trained professionals to avoid potential side effects and ensure the best possible outcome.
Professional extractions and many types of facials offer a targeted approach to address acne and skin congestion, providing customized treatments under the supervision of skilled aestheticians. These treatments utilize various methods such as extraction tools, facial peels, enzyme treatments, and advanced techniques like microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion. They are designed to unclog pores by removing dead skin cells, excess oil, dirt, and other impurities that can lead to acne breakouts.
In addition to manual extractions using specialized tools, professional facial treatments may also involve:
Enzyme treatments: These help dissolve sebum plugs in the pores by breaking down dead skin cells.
Microdermabrasion benefits: This exfoliating procedure uses fine crystals or a diamond-tip device to remove dead skin cells from the surface while stimulating collagen production.
Chemical peel risks: Aestheticians apply a chemical solution on the face that causes layers of damaged skin to peel away but may cause irritation or redness if not chosen carefully based on individual's specific needs.
Hydrodermabrasion effectiveness: Combining water-based exfoliation with vacuum suction creates a gentler alternative to traditional microdermabrasion that works well for sensitive or reactive skin types.
Seeking guidance from trained professionals ensures optimal results while minimizing potential complications associated with pore-clearing efforts.
Popping dangers include scarring, infection risks, and exacerbating the existing issue. When individuals attempt DIY pimple extractions with improper tools or unclean hands, they risk introducing bacteria into their pores and damaging their skin further.
Professional skincare specialists are trained in performing extractions with minimal discomfort and scarring prevention in mind. They employ specific extraction tools designed for different types of blemishes (e.g., blackheads or whiteheads) to ensure effective removal without causing unnecessary trauma to surrounding tissue. There are many different types of facials and having them done by a professional is key.
Although there are claims about baking soda benefits for various purposes, using it as an acne solution can disrupt the pH balance of the skin. The natural pH level of the skin ranges between 4.5 and 5.5, while baking soda has a pH around 9, which makes it alkaline in nature. Applying such a substance to the face may counteract the acidity needed to maintain healthy skin, resulting in irritation or exacerbation of existing conditions.
Natural remedies for acne and clogged pores often include DIY masks made from ingredients like honey, yogurt, oatmeal, or clay. These components have properties that help cleanse and soothe without causing undue irritation or damage to delicate facial tissue.
Pore size is genetically determined and, as such, cannot be permanently or physically "shrunk." However, the appearance of pores can often be minimized through various skincare practices and treatments. When pores are clogged with dirt, oil, or dead skin cells, they can appear larger or more noticeable. Hence, regular cleansing, exfoliating, and using non-comedogenic skincare products can help keep pores clear and make them appear less prominent.
Natural remedies for acne and unclogging pores include pore steaming, clay masks, oil cleansing, green tea application, apple cider vinegar toner, sugar scrub exfoliation, lemon juice treatment and aloe vera gel application.
The choice between charcoal and clay largely depends on your skin type and specific needs. For those dealing with excessive oiliness, breakouts, or exposure to environmental pollutants, a charcoal-infused product might be the way to go. For individuals with sensitive skin or those looking for a gentle, purifying treatment, a clay mask might be a better fit. As always, it's essential to follow up any detoxifying treatment with a good hydrator to replenish the skin and maintain a healthy skin barrier.
When it comes to unclogging pores, your skin type and specific concerns will determine whether Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), or Retinoids are best for you. It is NOT advisable to use all 3 at the same time unless you've been building up your skincare routine over time and know exactly how your skin barrier will react. Starting out with all 3 at once will quickly lead to skin barrier damage, not unclogged pores!
If you're looking for general benefits, including anti aging, take an approach that uses AHAs + retinoid (or bakuchiol). If you're specifically targeting acne and oily skin, focus on BHA (salicylic acid) + retinoid (or bakuchiol).
If you're unsure, consider consulting with a dermatologist to help determine the most effective and safe treatment for your specific skin type and needs.
Hormonal imbalance significantly impacts pore clogging, with acne triggers including puberty changes and menopause effects. Minimizing these effects involves stress management, understanding exercise benefits, exploring birth control options, and considering hormonal treatments.
]]>You might have heard about the benefits of castor oil for hair and lashes, but did you know it's also a fantastic addition to your skincare routine? Castor oil, derived from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant, has been used for centuries for its numerous health and beauty benefits.
Rich in phytochemicals and fatty acids, this versatile oil can improve skin health, cleanse pores, and possibly even remove skin tags. But before you jump on the castor oil bandwagon, it's essential to understand its properties, best practices for use, and necessary precautions.
This article is part of our ongoing series about face oil. Read on to discover why castor makes it onto our list of favourite oils!
Castor oil is a natural moisturizer from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant, known to nourish and soothe the skin. This vegetable oil has been used for centuries for its numerous health and beauty benefits, thanks to its unique chemical composition.
Dating back to ancient Egypt, the castor plant was revered for its seemingly magical properties. The castor plant, scientifically known as Ricinus communis, is native to the Mediterranean, Eastern Africa, and India.
Ancient Egyptians used castor oil as a natural remedy for various skin ailments and its laxative and anti-inflammatory properties. Throughout history, the castor plant has been mentioned in various ancient texts, showcasing its importance and widespread use.
The famous Greek physician, Dioscorides, recorded the medicinal uses of castor oil in his 1st-century work, 'De Materia Medica.' The ancient Indian Ayurvedic literature also speaks to the use of castor oil for various health benefits. In fact, castor oil has been so widely recognized for its natural ingredients and healing properties that it has been nicknamed 'Palma Christi' or 'Hand of Christ' due to its ability to heal wounds and treat various skin conditions.
The term "bean" is commonly used to refer to the seeds of several plants, particularly those from the Fabaceae (or Leguminosae) family, like kidney beans, black beans, and soybeans. These plants are characterized by the fact the seeds are held inside a pod.
However, the castor plant, or Ricinus communis, does not belong to the Fabaceae family. Instead, it is a member of the Euphorbiaceae family. The term "castor bean" is often used in casual conversation due to the seed's bean-like appearance, but this is a misnomer. The castor plant produces seeds, not beans.
So, while the term "castor bean" is commonly used, it's accurate to refer to them as "castor seeds."
Castor oil is a potent reservoir of numerous fatty acids and phytochemicals, each contributing to its unique therapeutic properties. The distinctive profile of castor oil is primarily due to its high concentration of ricinoleic acid and other fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitic acid.
The star player, ricinoleic acid, makes up 85-95% of the oil's total fatty acid content. This monounsaturated fatty acid, not commonly found in such high quantities in nature, boasts a unique chemical structure with a hydroxyl functional group that imparts anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. The hydroxyl group also makes it more polar than most fats, meaning it can interact with more substances, enhancing its solubility in alcohol and ability to form soaps.
Ricinoleic acid can deeply penetrate the skin due to its long carbon chain, moisturizing from the inside out and helping retain moisture by forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This also can help repair a damaged skin barrier.
Beyond fatty acids, castor oil contains other valuable phytochemicals, such as flavonoids, phytosterols, and phenolic compounds, each uniquely contributing to its skin-enhancing abilities. Phytosterols, for instance, have been studied for their ability to promote collagen production, an essential factor for maintaining skin elasticity and reducing signs of aging.
The composition of castor oil presents a potent arsenal of components that can contribute to healthier, more vibrant skin. From the dominating presence of ricinoleic acid to the supportive roles of other fatty acids and phytochemicals, castor oil harnesses the power of nature in its purest form.
Castor oil is safe for topical application; however, some individuals may experience side effects, which is why you need to patch test.
But what about using castor oil to replace botox? Any chance you'll get ricin poisoning? Read on as I set the record straight on castor oil!
The intrigue surrounding castor oil and its connection to the poison "ricin" is fascinating! As popularized by the TV show "Breaking Bad," ricin is an extremely toxic substance that can be derived from the castor plant, specifically from its seeds. However, it's crucial to differentiate between ricin and the ricinoleic acid found in castor oil.
First, it's important to note that ricin does not naturally occur in the oil itself because it's water-soluble and is not extracted during the oil-pressing process.
Second, it's important to remember that many seeds contain trace amounts of deadly chemicals - cyanide is found in seeds/pits from apple, peach, apricot, cherry, plum, bitter almonds, and the cassava root.
Just as we can safely eat an apple or apricot without ingesting harmful cyanide, we can use castor oil without fear of the toxic ricin.
This silly myth just blows me away. I have no idea how it got started or where the potential rationalization in logic came from. Tik Tok viral trends have done a lot of good for skincare education, but this one should fade away.
Botox is a nerve toxin. It paralyzes neurotransmitters deep inside your muscles so that they are incapable of moving. There is no link between botox and ricin (ie. ricin is NOT a nerve toxin and it is NOT present in castor oil).
Will using castor oil help reduce wrinkles? Sure! It's an amazing moisturizer with occlusive properties. It's also antioxidant and antibacterial. I go into the skin benefits in way more detail below. But it will not replace botox!
In the vast expanse of the internet, home remedies for various ailments are a dime a dozen, and one such remedy suggests the use of castor oil for the removal of skin tags. The suggested mechanism behind this is that castor oil supposedly 'dries out' the skin tags, causing them to fall off. However, a closer look at the properties and effects of castor oil raises doubts about the validity of this claim.
Contrary to the claim of drying out skin tags, castor oil is known for its moisturizing properties. This alone casts doubt on the suggested mechanism of castor oil 'drying' skin tags. Most of the DIY recipes involve mixing castor oil with baking soda. If this indeed does remove skin tags, it's probably the baking soda doing the "drying".
While the topical application of castor oil is considered safe and beneficial, its ingestion has risks. Castor oil has been traditionally used as a laxative due to its ability to stimulate the muscles in your intestines, promoting bowel movements. It has also been used to induce labour in pregnant women as a "natural" method.
It's important to underline that, although these uses may seem "natural" and rooted in tradition, they should not be undertaken without medical supervision. Ingesting castor oil, especially in large amounts, can lead to unpleasant side effects like nausea, abdominal cramps, and diarrhea. Even more critically, in pregnant women, its use to induce labour is associated with risks and, if considered, should be only under the careful guidance of an experienced healthcare provider.
Castor oil gets a lot of attention for its effects on hair and eyelashes because it is an excellent hair oil.
These fatty acids work to nourish the hair shaft and follicle, providing the necessary nutrients for healthy hair growth. One of the main benefits of castor oil for the skin is its ability to act as a natural moisturizer, and this property also extends to your hair and scalp. When applied to your scalp, castor oil can help maintain scalp health by keeping it hydrated and free of dandruff.
A healthy scalp is crucial for hair growth, as it provides an optimal environment for hair follicles to thrive. Additionally, the high concentration of fatty acids in castor oil can help lock in moisture, preventing hair from becoming dry and brittle. This leads to stronger, more resilient hair that is less prone to breakage and split ends.
Not only does castor oil work wonders for your hair, but it can also help improve the appearance of your lashes. By applying a small amount of castor oil to your eyelashes, you can promote growth and thickness. The fatty acids in the oil nourish and condition the lashes, preventing breakage and promoting a fuller, more voluminous appearance.
One of the primary benefits of castor oil for the face is its ability to deeply moisturize and nourish dry skin. Due to its thick consistency and high fatty acid content, it acts as a natural occlusive that locks in moisture and prevents water loss, leaving your skin feeling soft and supple.
Additionally, the antioxidants found in castor oil can help protect your skin from environmental aggressors, such as pollution and UV rays, which can cause premature aging and skin damage.
Another advantage of using castor oil on your face is its potential to treat acne-prone skin. The ricinoleic acid in the oil possesses anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which can help reduce acne-causing bacteria and soothe irritated skin. Furthermore, its ability to balance the skin's natural oil production may prevent clogged pores and breakouts.
With regular use, you may notice improvements in your skin's texture, tone, and overall appearance.
Castor oil has a texture that is thick and viscous. It feels fairly heavy and substantial on the skin. This is what gives it amazing moisturizing and occlusive properties.
Despite those properties, castor oil is very unlikely to clog pores. In fact (as we discuss below), it's an excellent cleansing oil. The comedogenicity rating of castor oil is 1, meaning it is very unlikely to clog pores and suitable for all skin types, even acne prone.
With that said, if you have oily skin, using castor as a face oil is likely not your best option. It's too heavy and moisturizing. This oil is best saved to be used as a cleansing oil or as a face oil for dry skin in need of a lot of moisture and healing.
Despite its thick and viscous texture, castor oil is a surprisingly effective ingredient for oil cleansing, owing to its unique composition.
Ricinoleic acid's unique chemical structure, which includes a hydroxyl (-OH) functional group, allows the oil to interact with a variety of substances. Its polarity contributes to its high solubility in alcohol and its soap-forming capabilities. This means that castor oil, in comparison to non-polar oils, can more effectively bind to and lift away impurities, excess oils, and debris from the skin surface.
When discussing the soap-forming properties of castor oil, it's essential to understand that this refers to the process of saponification, which involves the reaction of oils or fats with a strong base, usually lye (sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide). This process transforms the oil and the base into soap and glycerin.
Due to its high ricinoleic acid content, castor oil is commonly used in soap-making for its ability to produce a stable lather and hydrate the skin. However, this soap-making process doesn't occur spontaneously. It requires the addition of a strong base and specific conditions, such as heat, that are not present when using castor oil as a part of the oil cleansing method or any other direct skin application.
Another aspect that makes castor oil a cleansing powerhouse is its inherent ability to balance the skin's natural oil production. By helping to clear excess sebum without stripping the skin of its natural oils, castor oil supports a balanced, healthy complexion.
The castor plant is a fast-growing, drought-tolerant plant that can thrive in various soil types, making it an ideal crop for sustainable agriculture. Castor seeds contain around 50% oil, which can be extracted through cold pressing or solvent extraction methods. The remaining seed cake is a valuable byproduct that can be used as an organic fertilizer or animal feed, contributing to a circular economy and reducing waste.
One of the main sustainability issues related to castor oil production is the use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers, which can cause environmental pollution and harm local biodiversity. Some castor plantations have been linked to deforestation, leading to habitat loss and reduced carbon sequestration. To address these concerns, several organizations are promoting sustainable castor oil production, including the development of certification schemes and the adoption of good agricultural practices.
Yes, but treatment is a medical term that should be reserved for medically prescribed and supervised therapies. If you suffer from a diagnosed skin disorder, castor oil should be safe and may be helpful. Always discuss with your physician if you're worried or on complex therapies like biologics.
Yes, potential side effects of using castor oil on your skin include irritation, redness, itching, and allergic reactions. Always patch test before applying it widely and consult a healthcare professional if concerned.
Results from using any face oils on your skin can vary, but typically, you'll notice improvements within a few days to a couple of weeks. Consistency and proper application are key factors in seeing positive changes.
Store castor oil in a cool, dark place, tightly sealed in its original container. Its shelf life is typically 1-2 years but check for rancidity by smelling or examining the oil before using on your skin.
Castor oil is one of the best cleansing oils, that's why it's prominently featured in all bareLUXE cleansing products.
Shop our Natural Face Scrub now!
References
Patel VR, Dumancas GG, Kasi Viswanath LC, Maples R, Subong BJ. Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Production. Lipid Insights. 2016 Sep 7;9:1-12.
Goyal A, Sharma A, Kaur J, Kumari S, Garg M, Sindhu RK, Rahman MH, Akhtar MF, Tagde P, Najda A, Banach-Albińska B, Masternak K, Alanazi IS, Mohamed HRH, El-Kott AF, Shah M, Germoush MO, Al-Malky HS, Abukhuwayjah SH, Altyar AE, Bungau SG, Abdel-Daim MM. Bioactive-Based Cosmeceuticals: An Update on Emerging Trends. Molecules. 2022 Jan 27;27(3):828.
Vieira C, Evangelista S, Cirillo R, Lippi A, Maggi CA, Manzini S. Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation. Mediators Inflamm. 2000;9(5):223-8.
Phong C, Lee V, Yale K, Sung C, Mesinkovska N. Coconut, Castor, and Argan Oil for Hair in Skin of Color Patients: A Systematic Review. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022 Jul 1;21(7):751-757.
Nada AA, Arul MR, Ramos DM, Kroneková Z, Mosnáček J, Rudraiah S, Kumbar SG. Bioactive polymeric formulations for wound healing. Polym Adv Technol. 2018 Jun;29(6):1815-1825. doi: 10.1002/pat.4288. Epub 2018 Mar 27.
]]>Perilla oil, extracted from the seeds of the Perilla frutescens plant, is a natural ingredient that has gained popularity in the skincare industry for its numerous benefits for the skin.
The perilla oil skin benefits come from its nourishing status as a skincare super ingredient. The oil is rich in essential fatty acids, flavones, polyphenols, and triterpenoids, contributing to its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. These qualities make it an ideal choice for problematic, aging, mature, and oily skin.
The high levels of alpha-linolenic acid found in perilla oil regulate inflammation, making it a versatile ingredient that can be added to facial oil and serum formulations that are soothing and protective.
In this article, we'll explore the benefits of perilla oil for the skin, its fatty acid and phytochemical composition, and environmental and humanitarian considerations associated with its use. This article is a continuation of our ongoing series about face oil, and cold-pressed perilla seed oil makes its way onto our list of best face oils oils for acne.
Perilla frutescens, the plant from which perilla seed oil is extracted, is a member of the mint family and is widely used in traditional medicine due to its high content of beneficial compounds. Perilla plant is native to Asia and commonly cultivated in China, Japan, and Korea.
The oil is extracted from the seeds of the plant, which are rich in omega-3 essential fatty acids, flavones, polyphenols, and triterpenoids. Perilla oil's benefits for health and the skin are substantial, and it is a popular natural ingredient in skincare formulations.
The Perilla plant, scientifically known as Perilla frutescens, is a member of the mint family, native to East Asia. This annual plant, often referred to as perilla mint, shiso, or beefsteak plant, is renowned for its richly coloured, serrated leaves and a distinct aroma. Perilla is cultivated for a variety of uses. In cuisine, its leaves are used for garnishing, pickling, and as a flavouring component in certain dishes, especially in Korean, Japanese, and Vietnamese cuisine.
The seeds of the perilla plant yield perilla oil, which is appreciated for its high content of beneficial omega-3 fatty acids and is used both in cooking and in traditional medicine. The plant is also valued for its ornamental appeal, often enhancing gardens with its vibrant purple leaves.
Here are a few lesser-known perilla seed oil facts:
Cultural Significance: In Japan, a red shiso variety is used to dye pickled plums, known as umeboshi, giving them their characteristic colour. Also, the leaves are an essential part of the Obon festival as they are believed to help guide the spirits of ancestors.
Natural Remedy: Perilla oil extracted from the plant's seeds has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for its purported anti-asthmatic, anti-tussive, and expectorant properties.
Bee Attraction: Perilla plants are great for attracting bees. So, they're not only beneficial for humans but also the local ecosystem, playing a role in supporting bee populations.
Invasive Species: Although Perilla is a beloved plant in many Asian cultures, it's considered an invasive species in some parts of the United States. It proliferates and can crowd out native plants if not controlled.
Varieties: There are two major varieties of Perilla: red (also known as purple) and green. Each has a slightly different flavour profile, with the red variety having a more potent anise-like flavour, while the green one is said to taste more like cinnamon.
Perilla seed oil has a unique fatty acid composition that differentiates it from many other plant-based oils.
The most abundant fatty acid in perilla seed oil is alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3 fatty acid, which can constitute up to 60% of the total fatty acid content. This is notably high compared to many other plant oils. The oil also contains linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid, and oleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, although in smaller amounts.
In terms of phytochemicals, numerous other beneficial phytonutrients are present in perilla oil. One such group is polyphenols, which have antioxidant properties and can help to combat oxidative stress in the body. Additionally, perilla oil contains flavones like apigenin and luteolin, which also have antioxidant properties and may contribute to the potential health effects and benefits of the oil.
Perilla oil's natural composition makes it an excellent addition to a range of natural skincare products, including facial oils and serums for aging and problematic skin, as well as body oils and face products for those with drier complexions.
A bit of internet myth-busting to unpack here.
We keep seeing web posts that state Perilla oil contains substances that are natural precursors to ceramides, but when we dig deep, trying to find more info about the pathway and the exact substance behind this, we can't find any details.
The balance between the synthesis, utilization, and degradation of ceramides and other sphingolipids is carefully controlled in the skin and is crucial for maintaining the skin's barrier function and overall health.
The link between perilla seeds and ceramides is indirect.
Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) helps maintain the health of the skin barrier, which is primarily composed of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. A strong skin barrier prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL), keeping the skin hydrated and protecting it from environmental factors.
While perilla seed oil doesn't directly provide precursors to ceramides, the fatty acids it contains (like ALA) are necessary for overall skin health and function, including the proper production and function of ceramides.
The synthesis of ceramides in the skin is part of the complex sphingolipid metabolism pathway and involves several steps. To more directly influence ceramide synthesis, you could theoretically consume sphingolipids. These are found in foods such as dairy products, eggs, and soybeans. But please note that the skin health benefits of dietary sphingolipids are still an area of active research, and more studies are needed to fully understand their effects.
So what does that mean? It means that perilla oil, as with other carrier oils, supports the skin barrier and indirectly influences ceramide production. Some oils do this in different ways than others, but all can be helpful!
Carrier oils have a lot of overlapping properties that make them all excellent additions to your face care routine. Perilla oil stands out in a few categories, particularly those that help target blemish-prone skin. The Alpha-linolenic acid is Perilla's claim to fame. However, many of the effects you would experience using Perilla oil will overlap with other oils.
Antibacterial: Studies have shown that perilla oil has potent antibacterial properties against a range of bacteria, including Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli.
High Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA) Content: Perilla oil is rich in alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), an essential omega-3 fatty acid. ALA has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties and can help to soothe irritated or inflamed skin. It also supports the health of the skin barrier, helping to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental damage.
Anti-Inflammatory: Perilla oil contains rosmarinic acid, which has been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. Additionally, perilla oil contains alpha-linolenic acid, which can help regulate inflammation in the body and skin.
Beneficial Phytosterols: Phytosterols in perilla oil may help to reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin. They have also been shown to help increase collagen production, which can help improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Antioxidant: Perilla oil contains high levels of polyphenols and flavones, making it a potent antioxidant. These components help neutralize free radicals responsible for causing skin cell damage, leading to premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and other skin concerns.
Light and Easily Absorbed: Perilla oil is relatively light and absorbs well into the skin, making it suitable for various skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.
The combination of fatty acids and phytochemicals that give Perilla oil the above benefits make this an excellent carrier oil for people who have aging or acne-prone skin. The comedogenicity rating is 1-2, and the oleic levels are very low, so Perilla is a good one to try for those with oily skin who want to use a face oil as a natural remedy.
The anti-inflammatory and soothing properties can make perilla oil a good choice if you have sensitive skin. However, individuals who are allergic to Perilla or Chinese basil should avoid it. From an environmental standpoint, perilla plants are a contributor to seasonal allergies and hay fever, so this could be an unexpected culprit for skin irritation in some people. If you're worried, check with your physician.
There are no specific red flags for concerns related to environmental or humanitarian practices.
Perilla frutescens, the plant from which the oil is extracted, is a renewable resource that grows easily in many climates.
The cold-press extraction method does not involve any chemical solvents or harmful additives.
Perilla oil production can provide a source of income for farmers and workers in rural areas, particularly in regions where other crops may not thrive.
References
Choi HJ, Song BR, Kim JE, Bae SJ, Choi YJ, Lee SJ, Gong JE, Lee HS, Lee CY, Kim BH, Hwang DY. Therapeutic Effects of Cold-Pressed Perilla Oil Mainly Consisting of Linolenic acid, Oleic Acid and Linoleic Acid on UV-Induced Photoaging in NHDF Cells and SKH-1 Hairless Mice. Molecules. 2020 Feb 22;25(4):989.
Asif M. Health effects of omega-3,6,9 fatty acids: Perilla frutescens is a good example of plant oils. Orient Pharm Exp Med. 2011 Mar;11(1):51-59.
Igarashi M, Miyazaki Y. A review on bioactivities of perilla: progress in research on the functions of perilla as medicine and food. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2013;2013:925342.
Xu Y, Shi Y, Huang J, Gu H, Li C, Zhang L, Liu G, Zhou W, Du Z. The Essential Oil Derived from Perilla frutescens (L.) Britt. Attenuates Imiquimod-Induced Psoriasis-like Skin Lesions in BALB/c Mice. Molecules. 2022 May 7;27(9):2996.
Hou T, Netala VR, Zhang H, Xing Y, Li H, Zhang Z. Perilla frutescens: A Rich Source of Pharmacological Active Compounds. Molecules. 2022 Jun 2;27(11):3578.
]]>Black seed oil, also known as Nigella sativa, is an ancient treasure that has captivated the world with its incredible medicinal properties. Its legendary anti-inflammatory and antioxidant virtues have found use in traditional medicine for treating an impressive array of conditions.
As a nutritional supplement, black cumin seed oil has taken the spotlight, but science is now noticing its dermatological benefits, revealing its potential to become a game-changer in skin care.
This article joins our comprehensive series on face oils, and black cumin seed oil earns a spot on our list of best face oils for acne. Keep reading to find out why.
With its origins traced back to the Middle East and South Asia, black seed oil's usage as a natural remedy spans centuries. The ancient Egyptians revered it for its skin-enhancing properties.
The Arabian physician, Ibn Sina (known as Avicenna), was vocal in his admiration for its myriad health benefits. In his writings, he christened the seeds of Nigella sativa (black cumin) as "Habbat al Barakah," translating to "the seed of blessing." His writings reflect his deep appreciation for these seeds' therapeutic potential, highlighting their strength-enhancing, digestion-improving, and skin-treating properties.
Black seed oil's significant role in traditional Indian Ayurvedic medicine is also substantial.
The Eternal Beauty of Cleopatra: Legend has it that the timeless beauty of Cleopatra, the queen of Ancient Egypt, owed much to the black seed oil integrated into her skincare routine.
Nature's Magnet for Honeybees: The Nigella sativa plant is a significant attraction for honeybees. One study revealed that honey from bees that fed on Nigella sativa flowers demonstrated an improved nutritional profile and antimicrobial activity.
An Archeological Marvel: The discovery of black cumin seeds in the tomb of the ancient Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun underscores its deep-rooted value and significance in antiquity.
Sacred Reference: Black seed holds a special place in Islamic tradition. Prophet Muhammad is said to have proclaimed, "In the black seed is healing for every disease except death."
Black seed oil is found in health food stores, pharmacies, and online. It's often applied directly to the skin or combined with other natural ingredients like honey, yogurt, or aloe vera. Its ingestion forms include capsules, liquid, or powder.
However, if you're considering it as a dietary or health supplement, please consult your physician or natural health practitioner. This article primarily focuses on the topical uses of this oil for skincare.
The topical application of Nigella sativa oil is thought to offer numerous skin benefits, including:
With its powerhouse of valuable constituents, it's not surprising that this oil is surging in popularity in skincare routines.
Black seed oil benefits are substantial, but what's the secret behind its potency?
The power of black seed oil lies within its complex and rich biochemistry. Each constituent has a unique role, and together they create a potent, natural remedy that can address numerous skincare concerns.
Let's break down the key players in this nourishing oil.
Like all oils, black seed oil is predominantly made up of fatty acids. Among the fatty acids present, the starring role goes to Linoleic Acid (Omega-6), which accounts for about 50-60% of the total fatty acid content, and Oleic Acid (Omega-9), which makes up roughly 20%. We also find a supporting cast of Palmitic Acid (12%) and Stearic Acid (3%). This is a well-balanced oil that will be both moisturizing and skin barrier-supporting.
Fatty acids are key players in maintaining skin health, from preserving the skin's barrier and maintaining hydration to exhibiting anti-inflammatory properties.
Beyond the fatty acids, the phytochemicals in black seed oil each contribute to the oil's potential benefits.
Thymoquinone: The spotlight falls most brightly on thymoquinone, an antioxidant powerhouse. Despite only making up 0.4%-2.5% of black seed oil, this compound is believed responsible for a large portion of the oil's medicinal activity. It has demonstrated strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and even potential anticancer properties (though this is not proven or used therapeutically).
Thymohydroquinone and Thymol: These bioactive compounds have demonstrated antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects, reinforcing the oil's potential in managing skin conditions.
Nigellicine and Nigellidine: These alkaloids are other notable components of black seed oil, potentially contributing to the overall pharmacological effects of the oil.
Phytosterols: Black seed oil contains about 0.5-1% of these plant-derived compounds. They are known for their skin-soothing properties, helping to calm irritation and aid in skin repair.
In addition to the phytochemicals and fatty acids, black seed oil also contains trace amounts of fat-soluble vitamins such as A, D, and E, essential for skin health and immunity.
Working together, these constituents allow black seed oil to target various facets of skin health, promoting a clearer, healthier complexion. It's truly a testament to the power of natural chemistry!
Scientific studies are starting to show the potential benefits of black seed oil in treating acne, a common and stubborn skin condition.
A 2020 study found that applying a lotion containing 10% black seed oil significantly reduced the number of acne lesions in participants after two months. The anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties are attributed to this reduction.
Another study involving 70 participants demonstrated that a gel containing black seed oil had comparable efficacy to benzoyl peroxide (a popular acne treatment) in treating mild to moderate acne. Notably, the black seed oil gel had fewer side effects, indicating its potential as a gentler alternative.
It's worth noting that more research is needed to solidify these findings and understand the full extent of black seed oil's effectiveness against acne. Still, the results are promising, leading many to incorporate black seed oil into their skincare routines, especially those looking for natural remedies for acne.
Everyone's skin is unique, and what works for one person might not work for another. Always patch-test any new product and seek professional advice if you have concerns or doubts.
Black cumin oil can be used at full strength as a carrier oil.
However, some oil manufacturers work to isolate the highest possible levels of thymoquinone using other distillation and extraction methods like those used for essential oils. In that case, using the oil at 100% full strength could be irritating due to other volatile aromatics that may be extracted - so always follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding whether dilution is needed.
Like all facial oils, black seed oil can be used 1-2x per day. Most people need only 1-2 drops. Patch testing is recommended, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Check with your dermatologist or skincare practitioner if you have diagnosed medical conditions of the skin.
Black seed oil is an ingredient that can be used alone or added to other skincare formulations. It is not usually pore-clogging (comedogenicity rating = 2 with a balanced fatty acid ratio), so it's suitable for all skin types, particularly acne-prone.
The oil from black seeds is excellent for hair! In fact, this oil has a top spot on our list of best hair oils.
Embracing black seed hair oil as part of your hair care routine opens the door to many potential benefits:
Boosts Hair Growth: While not a prescription medication, the richness of black seed oil in essential fatty acids nourishes the scalp and hair follicles, which can stimulate healthy hair growth. The presence of antioxidants aids in combating oxidative stress that can impede hair growth.
Strengthens Hair Strands: The phytochemicals in black seed oil help reinforce hair strands from root to tip, reducing the chances of breakage and split ends.
Moisturizes and Softens Hair: The hydrating properties of black seed oil can breathe life into dry and brittle hair. Its moisturizing benefits result in softer, smoother locks with increased elasticity.
Soothes Scalp Conditions: Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, black seed oil may help alleviate certain scalp conditions. This includes issues like dandruff, scalp irritation, and folliculitis, fostering a healthier scalp environment.
Improves Hair Thickness and Luster: Regular use of black seed oil can enhance the overall appearance of your mane. It can improve hair thickness by stimulating hair growth and providing deep nourishment. Moreover, the oil imparts a natural shine to the hair, amplifying its lustre.
Protects Hair from Damage: The potent antioxidant compounds in black seed oil, especially thymoquinone, defend your hair against environmental damage and potential harm from heat styling tools, keeping your locks robust and healthy.
These benefits are not isolated to your scalp only. Used alone or combined with other ingredients, black cumin seed oil is also one to try for beard care.
When we turn our attention to black seed oil farming and production, there are some considerations to note.
Agricultural Practices: Nigella sativa is a hardy plant that grows well in various conditions, making it a sustainable crop. Organic farming promotes soil health, conserves water, and enhances biodiversity. As consumers, choosing organically grown black seed oil and other organic face oils is a step towards supporting sustainable agricultural practices.
Ethics and Trade: Today, the primary commercial producers of Nigella sativa seeds include countries in regions such as India, Pakistan, Turkey, Saudi Arabia, and Egypt. As long as supply chains are confirmed, the risk of human exploitation should be low. However, farming in developing nations raises the risk of this occurring, so brands need to be diligent when vetting suppliers.
Energy Use and Carbon Footprint: Black seed oil's extraction and refinement processes can consume significant energy and contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. Cold-press extraction is a more energy-efficient method than solvent extraction or steam distillation and results in a higher-quality oil.
Whether you're battling acne, seeking anti-aging benefits, or want to pamper your radiant skin with natural products, black seed oil offers an impressive range of advantages.
The benefits for skin and hair should not be understated. From scientific studies to historical texts, the evidence is compelling. The beauty secret of the ancients may indeed be the solution to our modern skin woes.
References:
Experience the miracle of Nigella sativa oil – the gift of nature that continues to captivate and heal from the time of pharaohs to the present day.
Khan, M. A., Tania, M., Wei, C., Mei, Z., Fu, S., Cheng, J., ... & Xu, J. (2018). Thymoquinone, as an anticancer molecule: from basic research to clinical investigation. Oncotarget, 8(31), 51907.
Majdalawieh, A. F., & Fayyad, M. W. (2016). Recent advances in the anticancer properties of Nigella sativa, a widely used food additive. Journal of Ayurveda and integrative medicine, 7(3), 173-180. Salem, M. L. (2005). Immunomodulatory and therapeutic properties of the Nigella sativa L. seed. International immunopharmacology, 5(13-14), 1749-1770.
Chehl, N., Chipitsyna, G., Gong, Q., Yeo, C. J., & Arafat, H. A. (2009). Anti-inflammatory effects of the Nigella sativa seed extract, thymoquinone, in pancreatic cancer cells. HPB, 11(5), 373-381.)
Ali, B., & Blunden, G. (2003). Pharmacological and toxicological properties of Nigella sativa. Phytotherapy Research, 17(4), 299-305.
Avicenna., & Goichon, A. M. (1939). Livre II du Canon de la médecine. Paris: Desclée de Brouwer
Alzahrani, H. A., Alsabehi, R., Boukraâ, L., Abdellah, F., Bellik, Y., & Bakhotmah, B. A. (2012). The antibacterial and antioxidant potency of floral honey from different botanical and geographical origins. Molecules, 17(9), 10540-10549.
Salem, M. L. (2005). Immunomodulatory and therapeutic properties of the Nigella sativa L. seed. International immunopharmacology, 5(13-14), 1749-177
Eid AM, Elmarzugi NA, Abu Ayyash LM, Sawafta MN, Daana HI. A Review on the Cosmeceutical and External Applications of Nigella sativa. J Trop Med. 2017;2017:7092514.
Soleymani S, Zargaran A, Farzaei MH, Iranpanah A, Heydarpour F, Najafi F, Rahimi R. The effect of a hydrogel made by Nigella sativa L. on acne vulgaris: A randomized double-blind clinical trial. Phytother Res. 2020 Nov;34(11):3052-3062.
Ahmad MF, Ahmad FA, Ashraf SA, Saad HH, Wahab S, Khan MI, Ali M, Mohan S, Hakeem KR, Athar MT. An updated knowledge of Black seed (Nigella sativa Linn.): Review of phytochemical constituents and pharmacological properties. J Herb Med. 2021 Feb;25:100404.
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Increasing attention to sustainability is being paid by both brands and consumers in the global beauty industry. Packaging plays a central role in this shift, with great emphasis placed on the perceived benefits of refillable products.
While refillable personal care products hold the potential to reduce waste significantly, plastic in particular, their market penetration has been notably slow. The question is why consumer and brand uptake of refillable personal care products has been comparatively limited despite the growing global emphasis on sustainability.
Many potential barriers exist, but there is also significant debate about whether refillable options are genuinely more sustainable or if it's just another form of greenwashing that should be abandoned in favour of other alternatives.
Sustainability, a buzzword echoing throughout the personal care industry, is plagued with paradoxes that make its pursuit challenging for both consumers and brands.
The concept of sustainability is inherently contradictory when you consider that the "cure" for consumerism and throw-away culture is to stop shopping (not increase sales of a new product packaging option).
The Consumer Paradox
Consumers indicate they want more sustainable product options from brands. However, large-scale adoption of these types of products is still lagging. This could be due to various reasons, such as perceived inconvenience, hygiene concerns, or a simple lack of options. This disconnect between consumers' expressed values and their purchasing behaviour forms the core of the consumer paradox.
The Brand Paradox
Next, we have a paradox within the industry itself. Brands are eager to meet the demands for improved sustainability but face the challenge of meeting their customers' shopping preferences and maintaining their brand image.
For some brands, maintaining specific label appeal and unboxing experiences is critical to their business model. The choice here is tricky - go all-in on sustainability, potentially compromising brand appeal, or find a middle ground where sustainability and consumer expectations coexist.
Trying to balance what consumers say they want (sustainability) with what actually drives their purchasing behaviour (brand loyalty, luxury, sensorial experiences, elaborate unboxing) is one of the ways you end up in a situation with greenwashing - brands over-emphasizing the appearance of sustainability improvements that are not actually meaningful.
The Impact Paradox
Lastly, there's the impact paradox - where efforts to improve sustainability seem significant at first glance, but the net effect is negligible.
It's not greenwashing in the sense that the change is meaningful and not being dishonestly overstated, but the impact needs to be bigger to be noticeable due to issues of scale. For instance, a brand might introduce refills that reduce plastic and shipping weight, seemingly a win for the environment. However, the actual reduction in net plastic waste per product is negligible. So, unless sales are in the millions per unit, is the change worth it?
It's crucial to understand these paradoxes as they underpin the challenges consumers and brands face in deciding whether to adopt refillable packaging.
Navigating Market Research Challenges
For small, independent brands looking to navigate the sustainable skincare industry, there needs to be more readily available market research data to guide informed decision-making.
Many larger corporations conduct extensive in-house market research but keep the results confidential for competitive reasons. Market research firms also provide insights, but their reports are behind steep paywalls. This leaves smaller brands in a challenging position, grappling with limited access to necessary data.
Addressing the Information Gap
As a brand owner who sells refillable products, my bias favours refillable options. We believe that building sustainability into your business model from day one will allow the future impact to be significant, despite not selling millions of units at the outset.
In asking these questions, the intent is to discover and share valuable insights, thereby aiding the industry's shift toward sustainable practices.
This article shares new information to help understand why brands aren't selling, and consumers aren't buying refillable skincare products. The goal is to provide easy-to-understand data for brands looking to navigate this sustainable market more effectively.
The hope is that this contribution will stimulate a collaborative effort toward a more sustainable future in personal care.
A survey was distributed broadly with no limitations on age or gender. Participation was solicited via email list, paid and unpaid social media, and using a survey distribution service. The people who answered demographic questions were female, university-educated, primarily between ages 30-44, and American.
It's important to note that the population surveyed largely included consumers who were sustainably-minded, due to the email lists and social media channels utilized. This selection bias was intentional as we wanted to survey people dedicated to sustainability and find out exactly why they specifically use (or don't use) refillable products.
Overall, 79.3% of respondents rated sustainability as important in their shopping decisions, with 46.7% rating it as extremely important. However, only 23.4% indicated that they currently use refillable skincare products. Serums, lotions, shampoos and other personal care products were <5% and perfumes were <1%. The remainder were mostly makeup (ie. refillable eye shadow palettes).
This confirms there is a disconnect and suggests there are either barriers to adoption or a perception that refills do not improve sustainability.
When asked what the barriers to using skincare refills were, reasons fell into several different categories: doubts about sustainability impact, worries about product issues, cost and availability, and brand loyalty/love of shopping.
When asked what might convince them to start using refillable product options, only 4% indicated that nothing would sway their decision. Of the remainder, 34% wanted lower pricing, 34% wanted clear proof of meaningful environmental impact, and 43% wanted their favourite brand to adopt the practice because switching brands wasn't desirable.
The final portion of the survey looked at consumer perceptions of the different types of skincare refill options and had them rate how sustainable each option was.
The sustainability winner was large containers that could be taken to a refill station or storefront for bulk filling. Participants added that this option could be further improved by having brands stop selling primary packaging altogether (i.e. Take an upcycled mason jar to the filling station). The perceived greenwashing loser was containers you mail back to the brand for processing and refilling.
When considering the environmental impact and greenwashing factor, consumers rated the different types of product refill options as follows:
This also confirms the paradoxes that exist.
Consumers want refillable products, and they perceive the best option as being a large container that gets filled at a storefront. In that case, that is a very different type of product. A $400 face serum would never become available to fill in bulk into a mason jar at your local refill depot - but maybe this infrastructure could someday exist?
To further answer the question about barriers to adopting skincare refills, a second survey was developed and distributed via social media channels to specific private groups for skincare formulators and entrepreneurs. Our experience with this second survey was unexpected. The survey was accessed 419 times with only 13 responses (4 of which were incomplete). While this is likely partially due to recruitment issues, it reflects hesitancy for brands to relinquish any perceived competitive advantage.
The low response rate renders this portion of the research largely unhelpful, but there were still insights gained.
First, only 1/13 of the brands indicated they already offer product refills. There were 7 that reported varying degrees of interest, but none were actively developing a refill program. Barriers included concerns about logistics/shipping, contamination/preservation, and being unable to afford the materials or meet the minimum order quantities.
Secondly, 100% of the respondents rated large container refills at a storefront or refill station as the most sustainable option, which was consistent with consumer sentiment.
Both consumers and brands feel the most sustainable method of offering product refills is through a program where consumers take their containers to a local refill station.
The challenges with this method are related to infrastructure, distribution, and scale.
Without substantial coordination, this model only works for small, indie brands with a local presence or massive brands with their own stores and distribution network (i.e., the great work being done by The Body Shop).
The issue? Customers are loyal to brands and want options.
Let's imagine this solution for a moment and brainstorm what it could look like:
A major international retailer that has relationships with multiple brands (we're looking at you, Sephora!!) could develop a "refill bar" system. The universally sized and shaped containers would be designed by the retailer and given to brands to fill at the product manufacturing stage. These large-volume refill containers would be distributed to all storefronts and displayed in the store next to each brand's regularly packaged products. Customers could then refill whatever container they want - a mason jar, primary package, a small vial, large vial - and be charged by the gram.
By having a large retail distributor lead the program, brands could choose whether or not to opt-in, they could choose which products to offer, and they wouldn't have to source their own containers. The retailer would be partnering with many brands to offer a universal option to consumers that would still allow shoppers the product variety and luxury level they're looking for.
We just need someone to take the first step!
23.4% of sustainably-focused consumers are using refillable products. However, most of those were refillable makeup such as eye-shadow palettes. Serums, lotions, and other personal care products were <5% and perfumes were <1%. This is despite there being an overwhelming majority who rate sustainability as important for purchasing decisions. Barriers to adoption include: difficulty finding options (especially from brands they're loyal to), concerns about contamination and mess, as well as hesitancy about the actual impact that using refills has.
More research is needed and more options are needed in order for this skincare packaging modality to have the impact we know it can.
Future Questions
These surveys and data are hypothesis generating due to limitations in sample size. In order to fully answer these questions, a larger dataset with stratification and shopper segmentation is planned. Links to the consumer and the brand reports.
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Are you on the lookout for a natural remedy to enhance your skincare routine? Look no further, as borage seed oil might just be the answer you've been searching for!
Derived from the seeds of the Borago officinalis plant, this incredible oil is packed with gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA), an essential omega-6 fatty acid that works wonders for your skin's health and barrier function.
In this article, we'll dive deep into the science behind borage oil's efficacy, explore its various applications, and reveal how adding this powerhouse ingredient to your regimen can lead to smoother, more radiant skin. This article is a continuation of our comprehensive series about face oil as well as the best face oils for acne.
Get ready to transform your skincare game with this amazing natural elixir!
Borage oil, also known as starflower oil, is derived from the seeds of the Borago officinalis plant. This plant is native to the Eastern Mediterranean region but has since been cultivated in various parts of Europe and North America.
The beautiful blue star-shaped flower was a popular ingredient in traditional medicine, with its leaves being brewed into medicinal teas believed to cure fevers, coughs, and even depression.
Borage oil's journey into skincare began when researchers discovered that it is an incredibly rich source of gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA), an essential fatty acid necessary for skin health and barrier function. In fact, borage oil boasts the highest concentration of GLA among all known plant sources – providing twice the amount found in evening primrose oil! This remarkable quality caught the attention of beauty enthusiasts and scientists alike.
As more studies were conducted on borage oil's benefits for skin health, it quickly gained recognition as a powerful natural remedy for various skin concerns such as eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, inflammation, dryness, and moisture loss.
Thanks to these compelling findings and its impressive GLA content, borage oil has become a highly sought-after ingredient in many skincare formulations today.
In addition to GLA, borage oil also contains other essential fatty acids like linoleic acid, oleic acid, and stearic acid. These fatty acids work together to improve your skin's barrier function, keeping it moisturized and protected against environmental stressors. They also have anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe irritated or inflamed skin.
The typical fatty acid profile of borage oil is as follows:
In addition to these fatty acids, borage oil also contains other phytochemicals, such as sterols, tocopherols, and saponins. These all work together to create the list of beneficial skin effects of using borage seed face oil.
History of Borage: The borage plant has been cultivated for centuries and is significant in folklore. In ancient Rome, it was believed that borage could protect against sadness and melancholy, leading to the saying, "I, Borage, always bring courage."
Culinary Use: Borage leaves and flowers are often used in salads, soups, and summer drinks for their cucumber-like flavour. In Germany, the plant is used to flavour a traditional gin-based cocktail called "Gurkenbowle."
Honey Production: Borage flowers are highly attractive to bees and are often grown deliberately to support honey production. Borage honey is known for its light and delicate flavour.
Companion Planting: In gardening, borage is often used as a companion plant, especially for tomatoes, squash, and strawberries. It's believed to help repel certain harmful insects while attracting beneficial ones, like bees and wasps.
Cosmonauts' Diet: Interestingly, borage seed oil has even made its way into space! Russian cosmonauts reportedly included borage oil in their diet to maintain their health and skin condition in the harsh space environment.
Medicinal Uses: Traditionally, borage has been used as a medicinal plant in various cultures. Its leaves and flowers have been used in treatments for fever, cough, depression, and certain skin conditions. However, modern science has mostly focused on the potential benefits of borage oil, particularly its GLA content, for skin health and inflammation.
Industrial Use: Beyond its culinary and medicinal applications, borage oil is also used in some industrial applications due to its unique properties. For instance, it's sometimes used as an eco-friendly substitute for mineral oils in various applications, such as biodegradable lubricants.
The primary mechanism of action for gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) involves conversion to dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA) and then to prostaglandin E1 (PGE1) within the body, which typically takes place when GLA is consumed orally. However, when applied topically, GLA can still offer potential benefits, although the exact mechanisms need to be better understood.
For topical applications, it's thought that GLA may help maintain the skin's barrier function and reduce inflammation directly at the skin level. There is also evidence that essential fatty acids can be absorbed through the skin, but it's unclear to what extent this occurs and how much of the absorbed GLA might be converted to DGLA and PGE1 in the skin. This the reason we like oils high in GLA for hormonal acne and menopause skin care.
One of the main reasons for using borage oil topically is to provide the skin with essential fatty acids that it may be lacking, particularly in conditions like atopic dermatitis (eczema), where deficiencies in the skin's lipid barrier have been noted.
So, while the systemic conversion of GLA doesn't typically occur with topical application, borage oil can still offer potential benefits when applied to the skin. However, further research is needed to understand these mechanisms fully.
Borage Oil: Borage seed oil is one of the richest sources of GLA. It typically contains 18-26% GLA.
Evening Primrose Oil: This oil is another popular skincare choice, containing approximately 7-10% GLA.
Black Currant Seed Oil: This oil has approximately 15-20% GLA content.
Hemp Seed Oil: Hemp seed oil contains around 2-4% GLA.
Spirulina: While not an oil, this blue-green algae is often included in nutritional supplements for its GLA content, which can be as high as 23%.
The result?
A more supple, radiant complexion with improved hydration levels.
The benefits of GLA don't stop there. This powerful fatty acid also offers antioxidant properties that protect your skin against environmental damage caused by free radicals. By neutralizing these harmful molecules, GLA helps keep signs of premature aging at bay while promoting a youthful appearance.
Borage carrier oil benefits are numerous for both skin and hair. While there are many other oils for all skin types, these little blue flowers produce a unique oil with many benefits and uses.
When your skin feels irritated and inflamed, applying a soothing product with anti-inflammatory properties can bring much-needed relief, calming redness and promoting a more even-toned complexion.
By incorporating borage oil into your skincare routine, you'll be providing your skin with essential fatty acids that help combat inflammation at its source. This means that not only will borage oil help soothe existing irritations, but it will also help prevent future flare-ups from occurring.
Dealing with dry skin and irritations is frustrating, but incorporating the right ingredients into your routine can restore your skin's health and comfort. Borage oil replenishes lipids in the skin's outer barrier structure while providing antioxidant benefits. When applied topically as part of a carefully formulated skincare product, it absorbs easily without leaving a greasy residue behind – making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive skin.
Applying borage oil topically provides your skin with essential fatty acids that strengthen its outer layer, making it less susceptible to damage from pollutants and allergens.
While being highly protective, some people report the addition of this face oil into their routine as one of the keys to healing their damaged skin barrier.
Our skin loses elasticity as we age due to decreased collagen production and environmental factors such as sun exposure. Borage oil can help counteract these effects by boosting the skin's natural defences against oxidative stress from free radicals while promoting collagen synthesis. Moisturization and prevention of water loss results in soft, plump skin.
Borage carrier oil has several benefits for scars that include accelerating wound healing, reducing inflammation, and improving skin elasticity. The GLA in borage oil promotes the regeneration of healthy skin cells, helping wounds heal faster and reducing the risk of scarring. By suppressing chronic inflammation, borage oil reduces redness and irritation around scars, making them less noticeable. Additionally, borage oil helps increase collagen production and maintain elastin fibres in the skin, leading to improved texture.
By incorporating high-quality borage oil into your skincare regimen – either through standalone products or by adding a few drops as a face oil – you can experience the benefits of using borage oil for acne and blemishes. Here's why this face oil is considered a potential natural acne treatment:
Reduces inflammation and promotes healing: GLA works as an anti-inflammatory agent, helping to calm redness and irritation caused by breakouts. The antioxidant properties of borage oil assist in repairing damaged skin cells and promote faster healing of existing blemishes.
Balances hormones: Because of its association with prostaglandins, there is potential for borage oil to play a role in helping hormonal acne.
Hydrates without clogging pores: Borage seed oil moisturizes without leaving a greasy residue or clogging pores – essential for those prone to acne.
Balances natural oil production: When applied topically, it effectively regulates the skin's sebum levels, preventing both excessive dryness and oiliness that can lead to acne and other skin issues.
As with any new skincare product, it's best to conduct a patch test before fully integrating borage seed oil into your regimen.
When storing borage oil, keep it in a cool and dark place to maintain its freshness and prolong its shelf life.
Of course, everyone's skin reacts differently, but there are no specific warnings about potential borage oil side effects. Always review things with your dermatologist or primary care provider if you're worried.
Skin Health: A study published in the British Journal of Nutrition in 2009 found that borage oil dietary supplementation improved skin function in healthy adults, specifically reducing skin reddening and water loss. This suggests that borage oil could help maintain skin hydration and barrier function.
Skin Irritation: In a study by De Spirt et al. (2009), borage oil was topically applied in a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study in 37 healthy women to evaluate its effect on skin barrier function and irritation from sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). They found that the borage oil application was able to reduce the SLS-induced irritation.
Atopic Dermatitis: A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment in 2003 concluded that oral supplementation with borage oil could benefit patients with atopic dermatitis (eczema) due to its anti-inflammatory properties. A study conducted by Tollesson and Frithz (1993) suggested that topical application of borage oil for eczema may be effective in treating infants and children with atopic dermatitis. They observed improved skin barrier function in a majority of the 48 participants after 12 weeks of treatment.
Arthritis: A meta-analysis published in The Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews in 2003 reviewed multiple studies on using GLA for treating rheumatoid arthritis. While some individual studies showed benefits, the meta-analysis concluded that overall, there was insufficient evidence to support using GLA to reduce pain or improve function in people with rheumatoid arthritis.
Nutrition and Other Health Effects: Borage oil's high GLA content may have other health effects. For example, a study published in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition in 2007 suggested that GLA might have a role in reducing inflammation and promoting heart health. However, more research is needed to confirm these potential benefits.
There is no clear winner.
In the world of carrier oils, these two have more similarities than differences.
Both borage and evening primrose oils are lightweight, fast-absorbing, dry oils that are unlikely to clog pores and remain neutral when it comes to colour or odour.
Both oils can benefit the skin due to their fatty acid content, specifically GLA. Borage oil stands out for its higher GLA content, but evening primrose oil has a long history of use and research in skincare.
The choice between the two might depend on individual skin needs, specific skin conditions, and personal preferences. As always, it's advisable to consult with a healthcare or skincare professional before incorporating new products into your skincare routine.
If you're specifically wanting to target a skin concern with GLA, then borage oil would be the one for you.
The cultivation and production of borage plants for oil extraction can be considered sustainable and beneficial in multiple ways.
Borage is a hardy plant that can grow in a variety of climates and soil conditions, often requiring less maintenance and water than many traditional crops. This resilience not only reduces resource usage but also makes it a potentially attractive choice for cultivation in regions where agriculture is challenging. Moreover, borage plants naturally improve soil health by providing nectar for pollinators, fixing nutrients, and breaking up compacted soils with their root systems.
The process of borage seed oil extraction is relatively straightforward and can be achieved through cold pressing, which is more environmentally friendly than chemical extraction methods often used for other plant oils.
From a humanitarian perspective, the cultivation of borage provides new agricultural opportunities for farmers, particularly in regions where other crops may struggle. The relatively high market value of borage oil compared to traditional oilseed crops can provide farmers with an increased income, promoting economic stability.
It should be noted that borage oil production isn't as widespread as the production of some other plant oils, such as palm oil or soybean oil, and so it hasn't been linked to large-scale environmental or humanitarian issues like deforestation or forced labour.
However, it's always important to be aware of these potential issues and to take steps to ensure that any agricultural product is produced in a way that respects both people and the planet.
Remember that consistency is critical when using borage oil for optimal results. Make sure to apply it regularly—daily if possible—to experience its full range of benefits in alleviating inflammation, promoting hydration, and improving overall skin health. Borage seed oil is an amazing addition to your facial oil routine.
With patience and dedication to incorporating this powerful natural ingredient into your routine, you'll soon notice improvements in the appearance and texture of your skin.
Give borage oil a try and experience its amazing benefits firsthand. Your skin will feel smoother, calmer, and more resilient as it revels in this nourishing elixir.
Borage oil is one of the key ingredients in bareLUXE CoreComplex Clarity Oil blend.
Read more about these special blends and watch for upcoming product announcement!
De Spirt, S., Stahl, W., Tronnier, H., Sies, H., & Bejot, M. (2009). Intervention with flaxseed and borage oil supplements modulates skin condition in women. British Journal of Nutrition, 101(3), 440-445.
Takwale, A., Tan, E., Agarwal, S., Barclay, G., Ahmed, I., Hotchkiss, K., . . . Williams, H. C. (2003). Efficacy and tolerability of borage oil in adults and children with atopic eczema: randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel-group trial. BMJ (Clinical Research Ed.), 327(7428), 1385.
Little, C., & Parsons, T. (2003). Herbal therapy for treating rheumatoid arthritis. The Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, 2003(1), CD002948.
Rett, B. S., & Whelan, J. (2001). Increasing dietary linoleic acid does not increase tissue arachidonic acid content in adults consuming Western-type diets: a systematic review. Nutrition & Metabolism, 8, 36.
Tollesson, A., & Frithz, A. (1993). Borage oil is an effective new treatment for infantile seborrhoeic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 129(1), 95.
De Spirt, S., Sies, H., Tronnier, H., & Heinrich, U. (2009). An encapsulated fruit and vegetable juice concentrate increases skin microcirculation in healthy women. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 22(1), 2-8.
Foster RH, Hardy G, Alany RG. Borage oil in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Nutrition. 2010 Jul-Aug;26(7-8):708-18.
Bahmer FA, Schäfer J. Die Behandlung der atopischen Dermatitis mit Borretschsamen-Ol (Glandol)--eine zeitreihenanalytische Studie [Treatment of atopic dermatitis with borage seed oil (Glandol)--a time series analytic study]. Kinderarztl Prax. 1992 Oct;60(7):199-202. German.
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In today's world, we're constantly bombarded with information about the latest skincare trends and miracle products. It's easy to get lost in all the hype, but one thing is for sure: oil cleansing has stood the test of time as an effective method for maintaining healthy skin.
Are you trying to figure out what oil to use for oil cleansing? With so many options available, how do you know which oil is right for your unique needs? That's where we come in - we've done extensive research on various oils and their properties to help you find the perfect match.
Oil cleansing works by dissolving excess sebum (the natural oil our skin produces) along with dirt, stubborn makeup, and other impurities that can clog pores and cause breakouts. This process allows for a deep cleanse without stripping away essential moisture from your skin - something that traditional cleansers may not be able to offer.
In this article, we'll discuss different types of oils based on their scientific properties and benefits, allowing you to make an informed decision on which one will work best for your specific skin type and concerns. So let's dive in!
The oil cleansing method is a popular skincare routine that involves using cleansing oils to remove dirt, makeup, and impurities from the skin.
This method relies on the principle of 'like dissolves like,' meaning that oil can effectively dissolve excess sebum, makeup, and other debris present on the skin's surface without stripping it of its natural moisture barrier.
Oil cleansing has gained popularity in recent years due to its gentleness on the skin compared to traditional cleansers, which may contain harsh surfactants. It's also especially effective at removing oil-soluble material like sunscreen and makeup, so it's a great approach.
Cleansing oils are typically formulated with a blend of plant-based oils such as olive, jojoba, castor or sunflower.
These oils have emollient properties that help soften and nourish the skin while simultaneously breaking down unwanted, oil-soluble substances.
To use a facial cleansing oil, simply massages a small amount onto dry skin for about 30 seconds to a minute before gently wiping off with a warm damp cloth or rinsing with water.
This process helps ensure the thorough removal of all traces of makeup and grime while leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated.
The oil cleansing technique not only removes dirt, makeup, and impurities but also helps to balance natural oil production and protect the skin's moisture barrier - both of which can help promote a clear complexion.
The major advantage of facial cleansing oils is their ability to dissolve excess sebum and other pore-clogging debris without stripping away essential lipids responsible for maintaining your moisture barrier and preventing water loss. This makes them particularly suitable for all skin types - even those with oily or acne-prone complexions. For some people using oils seems counterintuitive, but it really is one way to help unclog pores.
Since most makeup is oil-soluble and waterproof makeup like waterproof mascara is so hard to remove, choosing to clean your face with oil is a healthy alternative to harsh soaps.
The 'like dissolves like' concept makes oil cleansing tricky for some people. The fact you're using an oil means that water will not simply wash it away. If you use a face cloth with warm water, the majority of the excess oil will be removed. For most people, this will leave their skin feeling soft, moisturized, and supple.
However, for some people, the skin will feel too oily or just not clean enough. This is especially true for people who have skin that already tends to be oily. This could result in more pore-clogging for some people - or just a less enjoyable experience for those who like their face to feel more "washed" at the end.
The simple solution to this problem is to do a 2-step cleanse. Add in a traditional cleanser after the first oil cleansing step. This will rinse away more of the cleansing oil and leave you with that cleaner, more "washed" feeling.
But be careful!
If you use too harsh a cleanser, you will lose the main benefit of oil cleansing by stripping your face of all the important lipids. It's still best to stick with a gentle or lotion-based cleanser so that you have the right balance. Cleansers that are designed for sensitive or dry skin often strike the right balance in removing oil but not being harsh or damaging to your skin barrier.
Years ago, when I embarked on my natural skincare journey, I never expected there'd be so much to learn and know about something as simple as carrier oils.
Through my journey of reading, testing, and learning about face oils, I've come to be an expert in this class of skincare ingredients. It can be very simple for sure, but the nuances make it possible to fine-tune your options so they're best suited to your own skin type and concerns.
While you can use any oil for the oil cleansing method, we've developed the bareLUXE Top 10 list. Each of these oils has its own claim-to-fame for cleansing, whether it be cost-effectiveness or luxurious and astringent or protective properties.
With no further fanfare, here's our list of best cleansing oils:
Castor Oil: Castor oil is a powerful cleansing agent thanks to its high ricinoleic acid content (85-95%). This unique monounsaturated fatty acid enables the oil to penetrate deeply into the pores, effectively dissolving and removing impurities. In addition, castor oil exhibits mild astringent properties, helping to tighten the skin and remove excess oils. This makes it particularly beneficial for oily and combination skin types as a deep cleansing oil. This is a very cost-effective oil to use.
Grapeseed Oil: Grapeseed oil is a popular light cleansing oil, particularly well-suited for oily and acne-prone skin types. Its high linoleic acid content (70-76%) helps to balance the skin's natural oils without clogging pores. Moreover, grapeseed oil acts as a mild astringent and toner due to its polyphenol content, contributing to tighter, toned skin.
Sunflower Seed Oil: Sunflower seed oil is rich in linoleic acid (59%), oleic acid (30%), and stearic acid (6%). Its fatty acid composition helps balance sebum production while maintaining the skin's barrier function. Although sunflower seed oil does not have notable astringent or toning properties, its cleansing abilities and cost-effectiveness make it a suitable choice. This is another very gentle cleansing oil option for people with sensitive or irritable skin.
Sweet Almond Oil: Sweet almond oil, with its high oleic acid (62-86%) and linoleic acid (20-30%) content, is beneficial for skin health. This mild oil is suitable for sensitive skin types and effectively dissolves excess sebum and impurities. While not specifically astringent or toning, sweet almond oil's gentle cleansing properties make it an excellent choice for the oil cleansing method. It also adds to the luxury of your cleansing product because of its delicate aroma.
Sour Cherry Oil: Sour cherry oil is rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, and antioxidants. Its fatty acid profile aids in the dissolution of excess sebum and impurities, providing effective cleansing. While not particularly astringent or toning, sour cherry oil's antioxidants contribute to overall skin health and brightness. This is another oil that is reasonably priced to use and also smells great.
Baobab Oil: Baobab oil contains high levels of oleic acid (30-40%), linoleic acid (24-34%), and palmitic acid (18-30%). Its fatty acid composition helps to cleanse the face by dissolving impurities and excess sebum. Although baobab oil does not have significant astringent or toning properties, its moisturizing and cleansing abilities make it very useful. It has a light and nutty aroma and a very luxurious skin feel.
Hibiscus Oil: While hibiscus oil is not commonly used for its cleansing properties, it is rich in antioxidants, particularly anthocyanins, which can help protect and nourish the skin. Its unique composition may provide some toning benefits, but it is not considered one of the astringent oils. This is a luxury addition often chosen for its subtle aroma and delicate texture. The aroma is why I love it because adding fragrance has so many potential downsides.
Passionfruit Oil: Passionfruit oil, also known as maracuja oil, is high in linoleic acid (77%), making it an effective cleanser for oily and acne-prone skin types. This light oil helps to dissolve impurities and balance sebum production. Passionfruit oil does not possess notable astringent or toning properties but is valued for its cleansing abilities. This is another one of my favourites due to it's aroma!
Hazelnut Oil: Hazelnut oil is a versatile option for the oil cleansing method, thanks to its high concentration of tannins, which impart strong astringent properties. These properties help to tighten the skin, reduce pore size, and balance oil production. Hazelnut oil also contains oleic acid (75-85%) and linoleic acid (9-13%), which contribute to its cleansing properties.
Jojoba Oil: Jojoba oil, which is technically a liquid wax ester and not a true oil, is often praised for its compatibility with the skin's natural sebum. Its molecular structure and composition are similar to human sebum, primarily composed of triglycerides and wax monoesters. Regarding cleansing, jojoba oil's unique structure offers some notable benefits. Its waxy nature effectively dissolves sebum and impurities that have hardened and lodged within pores. As a result, it can unclog pores and remove dirt and makeup, making it an excellent choice for an affordable cleansing oil.
This oil has some potential; there's no reason not to continue using it if it's been working for you. However, it's not one of our favourite cleansing oils.
Coconut oil has a high percentage of lauric acid (45-53%), a medium-chain fatty acid known for its antimicrobial properties, which may help manage acne-causing bacteria on the skin. However, coconut oil is also relatively high on the comedogenic scale, meaning it can clog pores and cause breakouts in some individuals. Its thick texture may not be preferred by everyone, but it effectively removes makeup and impurities.
Medium-Chain Triglycerides (MCT) or Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (CCT) oil is derived from coconut oil, but it's composed of different fatty acids. MCT/CCT oil is primarily composed of caprylic acid and capric acid, which are less likely to clog pores than lauric acid, the primary fatty acid in coconut oil. This makes MCT/CCT oil a better choice for those who are prone to clogged pores or breakouts.
To be completely frank, you do not need a fancy oil cleanser. Any lightweight, nourishing oil will do. You might even have something right now in your kitchen that you could try!
All cleansers, whether they be oil or otherwise, get washed down the drain.
If you were to use any of the ones listed above, you'll have great results, and it will cost mere pennies per wash.
But, like with all skincare products, you can significantly amp up the costs and the luxury factor. A quick Google search and I was able to find oil cleansing products that were over $110/3 oz. Many were 100% oil-based and included multiple exotic or scented essential oils. Some contained additional ingredients like emulsifiers, fragrances, colourants, or non-oil ingredients to create a layered bi-phasic look. Some were more or less focused on vegan and organic oils. Others were very fancy looking based on the luxury status of the brand.
The financial impact of oil cleansing can vary greatly depending on the type of oil and brand chosen. As more people become invested in their cleansing routine, there is a growing market for various oils catered to different skin types and concerns. It's crucial to consider both your budget and desired outcome when choosing the best oil for cleansing.
When a beauty brand develops a natural or botanical cleansing oil, they work on a careful formulation that removes it from the realm of a DIY facial oil. Various additives will add to the effectiveness and luxury of these types of products.
Citrus essential oils, such as lemon, grapefruit, and bergamot, are often used in minimal quantities to enhance oil blends for their astringent and toning properties. However, they are photosensitizing and should be used cautiously, especially when the skin is exposed to sunlight. While not traditional cleansing agents, they can enhance the oil cleansing method's overall effectiveness when used appropriately. The photosensitization risks are much lower since the cleansing oil gets washed away and isn't left on the skin. This is why adding essential oils to cleansing products is less of an issue than for leave-on products.
Terpenes and terpenoids are the primary constituents of essential oils, and they can have a variety of effects on the skin, including cleansing. For instance, limonene, found in high concentrations in citrus essential oils, has antimicrobial properties that can help to cleanse the skin.
Phenols are another group of compounds found in essential oils, such as thymol in thyme oil or eugenol in clove oil. Phenols are known for their antiseptic and antibacterial properties, making them useful for cleansing.
Willow Bark Extract: Willow bark extract is often used in skincare due to its salicylic acid content, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Salicylic acid is oil-soluble and can penetrate into the pores to exfoliate from within, making it effective at unclogging pores and reducing acne. However, the concentration of salicylic acid in willow bark extract can vary and is generally much lower than in products that contain pure salicylic acid. This is actually why we like it - less is more!
Green Tea Extract: While green tea itself is water-soluble, the beneficial polyphenols (including the well-studied epigallocatechin gallate, or EGCG) can be extracted into oil. Green tea extract can provide antioxidant benefits, protect the skin from damage, and has shown the potential to reduce sebum production.
Enzymes: Proteolytic enzymes such as bromelain from pineapples and papaya are not specifically oil-soluble but can be incorporated into an oil cleanser if the formulation processes are correct.
Plant-based oils are the major winners in the oil-cleansing world.
Silicones are synthetic polymers widely used in cosmetic formulations. However, silicones are not traditionally used in the oil cleansing method. While they don't penetrate the skin or clog pores due to their large molecular size, they don't offer the same nourishing benefits as plant oils. There are also concerns about environmental bioaccumulation, so silicones are best avoided in oil cleansers.
Mineral oils derived from petroleum can effectively dissolve and remove sebum and makeup. Mineral oil isn't an antioxidant cleanser or particularly nourishing, but the main concern we have is the impact that the petroleum industry has on the environment, so mineral oil gets a hard pass from us. With all the amazing phytochemicals found in a natural cleansing oil, why even consider petrol?
Emulsifiers are additives that help mix oil and water, leading to a product that can more easily be rinsed off with water.
They are found in some oil-based cleansers to help wash away the excess oil. Emulsifiers can make oil cleansing more convenient and accessible, especially for those who don't like the feel of pure oils on their skin.
These types of self-emulsifying oil cleansers are a middle step between a pure oil cleanse, and a formal 2-step cleanse with a separate cleanser (see below). If you find oil cleansing leaves a greasy residue, but is easily dried out and don't need a full-on 2-step to cleanse with a surfactant, then try a gentle, self-emulsifying oil cleanser to see if it's the right balance for your skin.
In a one-step oil cleanse, you simply massage an appropriate cleansing oil onto dry skin and remove it by using a soft cloth and warm water. This method effectively removes makeup, dirt, and sebum from the surface of your skin.
Since oil isn't soluble in water and there are no emulsifiers in a pure oil cleanser, the mechanical force of the cloth and the heat of the water are responsible for removing the oil and debris. This will leave some oil behind (which is actually the whole point).
In contrast, a two-step oil cleanse involves first using a dedicated cleansing oil or balm followed by a traditional, water-based cleanser. This approach is particularly suitable for those who wear very heavy makeup or have oily skin as it ensures a more thorough removal of the excess oil.
The risk of a 2-step cleanse is the same as general cleansing with water-based products - overwashing, over-exfoliating, stripping your natural oils, and leaving the skin too depleted. Once skin barrier damage occurs, the pH balance of your acid mantle becomes disrupted, and the healing phase can take a while.
To determine which method best suits your needs, consider factors such as your skin type, daily routine, and personal preferences before committing to either one- or two-step processes.
As we just discussed above, some people find the hybrid approach (using a self-emulsifying oil cleanser) as the right balance between too oily and too squeaky clean.
Scientifically speaking, oil cleansing can be beneficial for acne-prone skin as it helps dissolve excess sebum and impurities without stripping the skin of its natural oils. This balance assists in preventing the overproduction of sebum, which can result in less acne overall.
When selecting an oil cleanser for acne-prone skin, opt for non-comedogenic oils such as sunflower seed oil or hemp seed oil that won't clog pores or exacerbate existing breakouts. If your skin is quite oily, you will likely benefit most from a gentle, 2-step process.
If you suffer from a medical skin condition, it's always a good idea to discuss changes with your dermatologist. With that said, the oil cleansing approach is one of the most gentle and protective ways to remove impurities while leaving the skin protected. It results in easy makeup removal and soft skin. If you're building a beauty routine for sensitive skin, including oil cleansing is key. The gentleness and lack of stripping makes oil cleansing important for natural anti-aging routines as well.
Definitely stay away from fragrance, most essential oils, and other potentially irritating additives if your skin is sensitive.
It's best to use a kitchen scale and measure your ingredients in grams rather than millilitres or ounces. That way, you can scale a recipe easily if needed. Targeting a 100g batch for your test run is easy because it all adds up to 100% - plus, you can usually buy sample sizes of oils in the 30-60ml range from your local natural ingredient supplier.
Here is a cost-effective as well as actually effective DIY recipe for an at-home oil cleanser:
10g Hazelnut oil
You can add 1-2 drops of your favourite essential oil if you know you aren't prone to skin reactions. Combined with the passionfruit, this will make your cleansing oil smell lovely.
If you want to experiment with adding natural emulsifiers that might help the oil rinse away a bit easier, just decrease the grapeseed oil by 5-10 grams and replace it with a plant-based, liquid, oil-soluble emulsifier. While this goes beyond the scope of this article into the world of formulation, a good place to start would be to experiment with Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, and lecithin. All 3 are plant-derived and should integrate with liquid oils.
Oil cleansing is a gentle, natural, and effective way to remove makeup and impurities without stripping your skin of its natural protective lipid barrier. Just make sure you're choosing the right oil for your skin type and following proper moisturizing steps.
Remember that everyone's skin is different, so it may take some trial and error to find what works best for you. Performing a 2-step cleanse is great for many people, but don't choose too harsh a soap; otherwise, you'll lose the benefits of the oil cleansing portion.
Give this method a try and see if it makes a positive impact on your complexion!
By combining a natural face scrub with a self-emulsifying oil cleansing balm, bareLUXE elevates your beauty ritual to the next level.
Check our our award-winning Crystal Infused LUXE Polishing Balm now.
References
Chen W, He M, Xie L, Li L. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen:Water, cleanser or cleansing oil? J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Jan;19(1):180-184. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12995. Epub 2019 Jun 3. PMID: 31157512.
Walters RM, Mao G, Gunn ET, Hornby S. Cleansing formulations that respect skin barrier integrity. Dermatol Res Pract. 2012;2012:495917. doi: 10.1155/2012/495917. Epub 2012 Aug 13. PMID: 22927835; PMCID: PMC3425021.
Mukhopadhyay P. Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders. Indian J Dermatol. 2011 Jan;56(1):2-6. doi: 10.4103/0019-5154.77542. PMID: 21572782; PMCID: PMC3088928.
Hosokawa K, Taima H, Kikuchi M, Tsuda H, Numano K, Takagi Y. Rubbing the skin when removing makeup cosmetics is a major factor that worsens skin conditions in atopic dermatitis patients. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jun;20(6):1915-1922. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13777. Epub 2020 Oct 26. PMID: 33040474.
]]>This extraordinary oil is extracted from the seeds of the majestic African baobab tree – a symbol of resilience, strength, and longevity. Packed with powerful nutrients, this eco-friendly ingredient can help unlock your skin's potential.
This article continues our comprehensive series on the best face oils. Keep reading to learn more about baobab and the great benefits of using baobab for skin and hair care.
Baobab tree oil has a rich history rooted in the ancient African continent, where it has been used for centuries by Indigenous communities as an integral part of their daily routines. Derived from the seeds of Adansonia trees – also known as the 'Tree of Life' – this precious elixir boasts regenerative and healing properties that have stood the test of time.
The baobab tree is an iconic symbol of Africa's landscape, often called the "tree of life" due to its ability to store water in its trunk and branches during dry seasons. In African folklore, the baobab tree is considered sacred and believed to possess supernatural powers. The oil extracted from its seeds has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and rituals for various purposes, including wound healing, treating skin infections, relieving inflammation, and as a natural moisturizer.
The baobab fruit contains a powdery pulp and several seeds encased within a hard shell.
Once the ripe fruit falls from the tree, local harvesters gather it. This sustainable harvesting method allows the tree to continue its life cycle, spanning thousands of years.
Following the harvest, the fruit is broken open; the seeds are separated from the pulp, cleaned, and left to dry in the sun. This natural drying process helps retain the nutritional content of the seeds and reduces the need for additional energy inputs, contributing to the sustainability of the process.
Once dry, the seeds are cold-pressed to extract the oil. Cold-pressing is a mechanical process that applies pressure without using heat. This technique ensures the maximum retention of nutrients, as heat can degrade some beneficial compounds.
The resulting baobab fruit oil is a golden-yellow liquid rich in nutrients that can be used directly on the skin or incorporated into skincare products. The oil is usually filtered to remove any remaining seed particles, and then it's ready for use. The process from tree to oil is mainly manual, preserving the traditional methods and providing income to local communities.
Baobab oil has a rich phytochemical and fatty acid composition, making it particularly beneficial for skin health.
The oil is predominantly composed of monounsaturated and saturated fatty acids. The two primary fatty acids in baobab oil are oleic and linoleic acids. Oleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, typically constitutes 30-40% of the fatty acid content. This component is known for its moisturizing and regenerative properties. Linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid, makes up around 24-34% of the total fatty acids, and it plays a key role in maintaining the skin's lipid barrier and promoting cell regeneration.
In addition to these major fatty acids, baobab oil also contains palmitic acid (around 18-30%) and stearic acid (around 2-10%), both of which are saturated fatty acids that contribute to the oil's stability and shelf-life.
The oil is rich in tocopherols, a class of vitamin E compounds known for their antioxidant properties. The primary tocopherol in baobab oil is gamma-tocopherol, which can neutralize harmful free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative damage.
Beyond this, baobab oil features several phytosterols, including beta-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. These compounds are structurally similar to cholesterol and help to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce inflammation, and aid in skin repair.
Lastly, baobab oil contains many sterols, such as cycloartenol and lupeol, which are associated with various skin benefits, including anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties.
Because of the composition described above, there are many benefits to using baobab oil on your face as a part of your daily skincare ritual. There are four key categories where the skin benefits of baobab oil can be seen:
Potent Antioxidant Protection: Baobab oil is packed with vitamins A and E, along with omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acids – all key players in neutralizing harmful pollutants and defending your skin from oxidative stress. Its sustainability-focused extraction process ensures that no nutrients are lost or wasted, so you can enjoy maximum antioxidant benefits.
Barrier Function Enhancement: By reinforcing the skin's natural lipid barrier, baobab oil helps retain hydration while preventing irritants from penetrating deeper layers.
Soothing Irritation & Inflammation: For those who suffer from sensitivities or redness due to environmental factors like sun exposure or air pollution, applying baobab oil can calm inflamed areas while promoting healthy cell regeneration.
Anti-Aging effects. Baobab oil is a treasure trove of essential fatty acids that help maintain the integrity of your skin's cell membrane. This improves hydration, plumpness, and elasticity. Baobab oil's vitamin-rich profile protects your skin and actively works to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen production. This combination of antioxidant protection and collagen stimulation results in firmer, smoother, and more radiant-looking skin. With improved moisture retention and resilience against external aggressors like pollution or UV rays comes a visible reduction of age-related concerns such as dryness, sagging, or dullness.
Yes.
The high content of fatty acids, mainly oleic and linoleic acids, can help to moisturize the scalp and strengthen hair strands, reducing dryness and improving texture. Antioxidants can help to preserve the integrity of the hair and prevent damage that can lead to breakage and split ends.
The oil's anti-inflammatory properties can soothe a dry, irritated scalp and may help to reduce dandruff. Furthermore, studies suggest that phytosterols can stimulate hair follicles, potentially promoting hair growth.
Moreover, the oil's emollient properties can help to detangle hair, reducing breakage during combing or brushing. This makes it a beneficial ingredient in conditioners and hair masks.
On a scale of 0 to 5, with 0 being non-comedogenic and 5 being highly comedogenic, baobab oil is generally rated a 2. This means it has a relatively low likelihood of clogging pores.
Baobab oil is rich in linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid associated with reducing acne.
As for skin types best suited to baobab oil, it's generally well-tolerated by most. Its rich fatty acid content makes it a good option for dry skin and mature skin, as it can help to moisturize, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
For sensitive skin, baobab oil's anti-inflammatory properties can help to soothe irritation and reduce redness. Its antioxidant properties can benefit all skin types by protecting against environmental stressors that cause premature aging.
Absolutely.
Oil cleansing is another one of the many uses and benefits for this seed oil and many other oils too.
Baobab oil is an excellent choice for a cleansing oil due to its unique fatty acid composition and emollient properties. It can clean the pores without stripping the skin of its natural oils, which can often be the case with harsh, detergent-based cleansers. It leaves the skin feeling soft and supple rather than tight or dry.
In fact, as a bareLUXE favourite, Baobab oil is an essential constituent of our CoreComplex Reveal oil blend and is included in our cleansing products and our natural face scrub.
Treating a specific medical condition should be guided by the supervision and prescribed recommendations of a dermatologist or other qualified healthcare practitioner. It's important to remember that conditions like eczema can increase the chance you could react to some ingredients because the damaged skin barrier doesn't protect you from allergens.
Still, natural plant oils are highly nourishing and protective and can augment your treatment plan as well as help your skin heal. Talk to your doctor if you're worried.
Baobab oil production presents a unique intersection of sustainability and humanitarian considerations. The baobab tree has a great ability to store water in arid conditions and provide sustenance during dry seasons. However, these trees, some of which are thousands of years old, are under threat from climate change and land-use changes.
In terms of sustainability, the harvesting and production of baobab oil are often carried out using traditional methods that have a low environmental impact. The fruit is collected only after it falls from the tree naturally, ensuring the tree isn't damaged during the process. Also, the trees are not cut down to produce the oil, which is extracted from the seeds within the fruit.
Moreover, the processing of baobab oil is energy-efficient. After the seeds are extracted and cleaned, they are sun-dried, which requires no additional energy input. The oil extraction process is mechanical, typically cold pressing, which doesn't involve heat or chemical solvents that could harm the environment.
From a humanitarian perspective, producing baobab oil can provide important economic opportunities for local communities. The harvesting and processing of the fruit and seeds are labour-intensive processes often carried out by local people. By purchasing baobab oil sourced from these communities, consumers support local economies and contribute to poverty alleviation.
However, it's important to ensure that the trade in baobab oil is fair and beneficial to these communities. Some organizations and companies work to ensure fair trade principles are upheld, providing fair wages to harvesters and investing in local community development.
As for baobab tree conservation, the commercial value of baobab oil can actually provide an incentive to protect these trees. If the trees are seen as a valuable resource that can provide a sustainable income for local people, they are less likely to be cut down for other uses, such as timber, or to clear land for agriculture.
Baobab oil benefits can be experienced for both the skin and hair. There are so many potential applications where baobab oil for face care has an important role. The reason baobab oil has so many amazing skin benefits is from the omega fatty acids and phytochemical composition that makes it so nourishing.
When sourced and produced responsibly, baobab oil can contribute to both environmental sustainability and social well-being. It's an excellent example of how a natural resource can be utilized in a way that benefits people and the planet alike.
References
Braca A, Sinisgalli C, De Leo M, Muscatello B, Cioni PL, Milella L, Ostuni A, Giani S, Sanogo R. Phytochemical Profile, Antioxidant and Antidiabetic Activities of Adansonia digitata L. (Baobab) from Mali, as a Source of Health-Promoting Compounds. Molecules. 2018 Nov 27;23(12):3104.
Ayanlowo O, -Adeife OC, Ilomuanya M, Ebie C, Adegbulu A, Ezeanyache O, Odiase O, Ikebudu V, Akanbi B. African oils in dermatology. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Mar;35(3):e14968.
Michalak M, Pierzak M, Kręcisz B, Suliga E. Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review. Nutrients. 2021 Jan 12;13(1):203.
Msalilwa UL, Makule EE, Munishi LK, Ndakidemi PA. Physicochemical Properties, Fatty Acid Composition, and the Effect of Heating on the Reduction of Cyclopropenoid Fatty Acids on Baobab (Adansonia digitata L.) Crude Seed Oil. J Lipids. 2020 Dec 14;2020:6691298.
Komane, B. M., Vermaak, I., Kamatou, G. P. P., Summers, B., & Viljoen, A. M.. (2017). Beauty in Baobab: a pilot study of the safety and efficacy of Adansonia digitata seed oil. Revista Brasileira De Farmacognosia, 27(1), 1–8.
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Jojoba oil, a gem in the skincare world, has been making waves for its incredible benefits and sustainable practices. But what exactly makes this golden elixir so magical?
Let us take you on a journey to unveil the science behind this remarkable natural resource and how it can transform your skin.
Jojoba oil is brimming with nourishing properties and its environmentally friendly nature aligns perfectly with our commitment to sustainability.
This article is part of our series on the best face oils and jojoba is one not to miss!
Jojoba oil has its roots in the arid regions of Northern Mexico and the Southwestern United States, where indigenous communities have used it for centuries.
The secret to this golden elixir lies within the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis), which thrives in harsh environments due to its unique ability to retain moisture. Despite its harsh growing conditions, the plant produces seeds rich in a unique, waxy oil. This oil, unlike most plant oils, is incredibly stable and long-lasting.
Historically, Indigenous people used jojoba oil for treating sores and wounds due to its antibacterial properties. Additionally, the oil was used as a food supplement during times of scarcity, and its seeds were ground into a coffee-like beverage.
In modern times, jojoba oil's medicinal benefits are attributed to its high antioxidants and fatty acids content. It's used topically to soothe various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. Its hypoallergenic properties make it a suitable moisturizer for sensitive skin. Research also points to its potential anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects.
Jojoba is a wax, not an oil!
Contrary to common belief, jojoba oil isn't technically an oil. Most plant-derived oils are triglycerides. However, jojoba molecules are not glycerol-based. Instead, they are long straight-chain wax esters. This makes its structure more similar to human sebum, the skin's natural oil, than other plant oils.
This wax-like molecular structure contributes to stability and resistance to oxidation, which is why jojoba oil has a longer shelf life than other vegetable oils. Moreover, its similarity to sebum allows it to absorb quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy residue. As a result, it helps balance the skin's oil production, making it beneficial for both dry and oily skin types.
The primary constituents of jojoba oil are long-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols, including eicosenoic acid, docosenoic acid, and oleic acid.
The primary fatty alcohols in jojoba oil, corresponding to their fatty acid counterparts, are eicosenol and docosenol, which are 20- and 22-carbon chain alcohols, respectively. These fatty alcohols, along with the long-chain fatty acids, form the wax esters that give jojoba oil its unique properties.
Unlike short-chain, drying alcohols like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol, which can dry out the skin and disrupt the skin barrier, the long-chain fatty alcohols in jojoba oil are beneficial for skin health. They have emollient properties, meaning they can soften and smooth the skin.
Indeed, one of the unique aspects of jojoba oil is that it doesn't contain linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid often found in other plant-based oils. The absence of linoleic acid doesn't detract from jojoba oil's skincare benefits. In fact, its unique composition is one of the reasons why jojoba oil is so stable, has a long shelf life, and is less likely to cause skin irritation compared to other oils.
Beyond its unique fatty acid profile, jojoba oil is rich in a variety of phytochemicals. These include natural forms of vitamin E, which acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Other beneficial compounds include phytosterols, which have anti-inflammatory properties, and squalene, a compound with potent antioxidant and anticancer properties.
Jojoba oil closely resembles human sebum – our skin's natural oil. This unique feature effectively penetrates the skin barrier without clogging pores or causing breakouts.
Its rich composition includes essential fatty acids, vitamin E, antioxidants, and minerals which work together synergistically to nourish and hydrate your precious skin.
When you think about the term "wax," you might think that jojoba would be too occlusive. While it does have occlusive properties, the similarities to your own sebum make it especially suited to moisturizing skin in a manner similar to your own body's mechanisms.
Due to the chemical structure and composition, jojoba oil benefits are pronounced. Here are a few to expect:
GENERAL SKIN HEALTH
In addition to its incredible benefits for skin, jojoba oil also works wonders for hair care and scalp health. Its unique composition of long-chain fatty acids and high-quality nutrients make it a top choice for promoting healthy, strong, and shiny locks.
Here are four key reasons why incorporating jojoba oil into your hair care regimen can help elevate both its appearance and health:
Ecological Considerations
Jojoba plants are native to arid desert regions of North America, particularly Arizona, southern California, and northern Mexico. They are hardy and drought-resistant, able to thrive in harsh environments with minimal water. This makes jojoba an environmentally friendly crop from an irrigation standpoint.
Jojoba plants also have deep root systems, which help them utilize underground water sources and prevent soil erosion. In addition, jojoba plants can help improve soil fertility by adding organic matter.
Sustainability Considerations
Jojoba oil production is generally considered sustainable as the plants can grow in arid, non-arable land where not many other crops can survive. This means it doesn't compete with food crops for land resources.
Moreover, jojoba plants are perennials, producing seeds for many years once they are established, contributing to the crop's sustainability. The plant also has a relatively long productive life span, with some reports suggesting it can continue producing seeds for up to 100 years or more.
However, like any crop, jojoba cultivation and oil production must be managed responsibly to avoid overexploitation. Practices like overharvesting or improper processing can negatively impact the environment and the sustainability of the crop.
Another sustainability concern is the potential impact of climate change on jojoba's natural habitats. Rising temperatures and changing precipitation patterns could affect the plant's growth and seed production in the future.
Lastly, due to the high demand for jojoba oil in the cosmetics industry, it's important to source it from suppliers who adhere to ethical and sustainable farming practices, ensuring the long-term viability of the crop and the well-being of the communities involved in its cultivation and processing.
Jojoba oil is highly beneficial for all skin types.
It will keep the skin calm and comfortable and feel supple. It absorbs into the skin well, and the oil's many benefits come from its unique chemical structure.
Jojoba oil's waxy properties make it extra helpful in moisturizing dry skin.
Its ability to balance skin's natural oil production, in addition to its antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, means jojoba oil can be used for people with acne-prone or oily skin.
Jojoba oil is generally well-tolerated, and allergies are rare. Any new product could cause irritation or reactions, which is why patch testing is always recommended.
Carrier oil use is highly beneficial for your face. However, visible results aren't generally dramatic unless paired with more active ingredients, as in the case of oil serums.
When you start using facial oils, instant improvements in moisturization and texture will be noticed. Other changes are gradual and will occur over 6-12 weeks. Stay patient and give your skin time to adjust.
As with any natural ingredient, individual reactions can vary, and some users might experience allergic reactions, such as redness, itching, or swelling.
It's essential to perform a patch test before incorporating jojoba oil into your daily skincare routine.
Absolutely!
Jojoba oil can work wonders in synergy with other skincare products, enhancing their benefits and providing a nourishing base for your skin. There aren't any specifically identified reactions or interactions with other ingredients.
It's called liquid gold for a reason!
Incorporating jojoba oil into your skincare routine can potentially offer numerous benefits for various skin types.
Using pure jojoba oil on the face directly at full strength is fine, but having it be a component of a more elaborate facial oil serum will push the visible results further. Regardless, ensuring this nourishing liquid wax is part of your skincare routine will leave the health of your skin and hair thankful.
Its properties as a soothing, moisturizing, and barrier boosting ingredient earned Jojoba oil a top spot in the bareLUXE bare Essential skin barrier oil serum.
References
Gad HA, Roberts A, Hamzi SH, Gad HA, Touiss I, Altyar AE, Kensara OA, Ashour ML. Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses, and Toxicity. Polymers (Basel). 2021 May 24;13(11):1711.
Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70.
Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Ghassemi MR, Kazerouni A, Rafeie E, Jamshydian N. Jojoba in dermatology: a succinct review. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2013 Dec;148(6):687-91.
Al-Obaidi JR, Halabi MF, AlKhalifah NS, Asanar S, Al-Soqeer AA, Attia MF. A review on plant importance, biotechnological aspects, and cultivation challenges of jojoba plant. Biol Res. 2017 Aug 24;50(1):25.
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If you're seeking an eco-friendly solution that transforms your skin and supports sustainable practices, look no further!
Grapeseed oil for skin care is a multitasking marvel that offers science-backed benefits for all skin types and concerns – from combating acne to reducing signs of aging.
This in-depth article is part of our ongoing series about choosing and using a face oil for your skin type and goals. So keep reading to discover why grapeseed oil deserves a spot high on our list of favourites.
Grapeseed oil is pressed from the seeds of grapes (Vitis vinifera) and is well-regarded for its nutritional profile. The journey of grapeseed oil begins in vineyards, where grapes are carefully nurtured and grown to produce some of the finest wines.
As a sustainability-focused brand, we love it when we find an upcycled or zero-waste ingredient! Grapeseed oil is cold-pressed and extracted from the leftover grape seeds that remain after the juice or winemaking process.
By incorporating grapeseed or other zero-waste oils into your daily skincare routine, you're not only embarking on a journey towards achieving healthy, radiant skin but also playing an active role in preserving our planet for future generations.
Grapeseed oil and grapeseed extract, both derived from grape seeds, have distinct compositions and applications in skincare due to their unique extraction processes.
Grapeseed oil, obtained through cold pressing or solvent extraction, is rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E, providing nourishment, anti-inflammatory benefits, and antioxidant protection when applied topically.
Conversely, grapeseed extract, resulting from grinding and often water or alcohol extraction, is richer in proanthocyanidins and different antioxidants. However, its water-soluble nature makes it an entirely different ingredient than the oil we're talking about here.
Grapeseed oil contains a significant amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, and monounsaturated and saturated fats. The percentage composition can vary slightly based on the extraction process and grape variety, but the typical composition is as follows:
Fatty Acid Composition:
Phytochemical Composition:
Grapeseed oil also contains several important phytochemicals, the most noteworthy being Vitamin E, phytosterols (beta-sitosterol), squalene, other phenolic compounds being the most common like gallic acid, catechin, and epicatechin.
The fatty acid and phytochemical composition described above is responsible for the skin benefits of grapeseed oil.
Rich in antioxidants such as vitamin E and polyphenols, grapeseed oil works diligently to neutralize free radicals and strengthen the skin barrier.
Like sunflower seed oil, grapeseed often gets a bad rap for being a passive, dilution oil - this is far from the truth. While it doesn't possess many outstanding properties like some specialized oils, the fatty acid profile and gentle nature of grape seed oil make it particularly well-suited to irritable, damaged, and stressed skin types. Furthermore, its lightweight texture allows it to be easily absorbed by the skin without leaving any greasy residue – perfect for incorporating into your daily skincare routine.
Using grapeseed oil on your face should reveal the following potential benefits:
Grapeseed oil is very low (0-1) on the comedogenic scale, meaning it has a minimal likelihood of clogging pores.
This low comedogenicity is due to its high linoleic acid content, a fatty acid beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin types.
Linoleic acid soothes inflammation and helps balance sebum production. Therefore, grapeseed oil is generally suitable for acne-prone skin.
However, individual reactions can vary, and it's always recommended to patch-test any new skincare product before full application.
Grapeseed oil is often derived from grape seeds discarded during wine and juice-making processes. Using byproducts of other manufacturing processes in this manner improves the sustainability profile and makes grapeseed oil a zero-waste, upcycled ingredient.
The sustainability of grape farming and wine production varies greatly, influenced by farming methods, geographic location, and scale of operations.
Some vineyards implement sustainable practices like integrated pest management, organic farming, and water-efficient irrigation. Similarly, wineries can promote sustainability by reducing water and energy use, recycling waste, and employing renewable energy sources.
However, challenges like high water use, potential pesticide runoff, soil degradation, and carbon emissions persist. As a result, the wine industry's sustainability movement is growing, with many seeking certification for their efforts.
Grapeseed oil, a byproduct of the winemaking process, has garnered attention for its notable benefits in skincare. Rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E, this lightweight oil offers powerful antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from free radical damage. It also has anti-inflammatory effects, which can help soothe acne-prone skin. Its low comedogenicity makes it suitable for all skin types, including oily skin, as it moisturizes without clogging pores.
Grapeseed is an oil that people can't go wrong trying if they're new to the world of face oils. I have made it onto our lists of both the best face oils for acne as well as the best face oils for sensitive skin.
If you're shopping, Grapeseed oil is prominently featured in our bare Essential Elevated Face Oil, a skin barrier oil designed for sensitive and irritable skin.
Garavaglia J, Markoski MM, Oliveira A, Marcadenti A. Grape Seed Oil Compounds: Biological and Chemical Actions for Health. Nutr Metab Insights. 2016 Aug 16;9:59-64.
Hemmati AA, Foroozan M, Houshmand G, Moosavi ZB, Bahadoram M, Maram NS. The topical effect of grape seed extract 2% cream on surgery wound healing. Glob J Health Sci. 2014 Oct 29;7(3):52-8.
Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70.
Moalla Rekik D, Ben Khedir S, Ksouda Moalla K, Kammoun NG, Rebai T, Sahnoun Z. Evaluation of Wound Healing Properties of Grape Seed, Sesame, and Fenugreek Oils. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:7965689.
Shawahna R. Effects of grapeseed oil (Vitis vinifera L.) loaded dermo-cosmetic nanoemulgel on biophysical parameters of facial skin: A split-face, blinded, placebo-controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Nov;21(11):5730-5738.
]]>What are you shopping for - a face oil or serum? Do you even know the difference? Is a face oil the same as an oil serum? What is the difference between oils and serums?
All these words are marketing terms. While they aren't meant to intentionally confuse you, it makes shopping for an effective product difficult if you can't wade past the words and actually understand what you're buying.
A serum is a lightweight, fast-absorbing liquid that delivers a high concentration of active ingredients directly into the skin.
These ingredients might be water soluble like peptides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamins, and botanical extracts. The formulation is made with ingredients usually small in molecular size for deeper skin penetration. This maked serums effective for targeting specific skin concerns like wrinkles, dark spots, or dehydration.
The benefits of using a serum are significant and could include anti aging, improved dark spots, enhanced collagen production, improved skin tone, and improved acne - it all depends on the active ingredients in the serum.
This is where marketing terms can get confusing and there has been some controversy.
Before you can decide what type of serum you're shopping for, you need to understand what skincare brands mean when they label something as a "serum".
bareLUXE Skincare specializes in face oils and want to help consumers understand that face oils can be serums too.
The TL:DR is that the term "serum" is a marketing label used to communicate to consumers that a product contains highly active ingredients that target a specific result.
Though serums are traditionally water-based, face oils with active ingredients are serums too! Oil serums are not just a skincare trend, they should become part of your permanent daily ritual.
The reason it's so important to understand that the term serum means different things to different brands is so you can spot hyped up marketing and not waste your money.
Here are a few key definitions and distinctions:
Simple face oils and oil serums, while similar, have distinct differences.
Think of the difference between a simple lotion, cream, and traditional serum - the lotion and cream will deliver some simple benefits and mainstay ingredients, but the serum is powerful and targeted towards a specific ingredient or skin concern.
Simple face oils primarily serve to moisturize and protect the skin, with their composition being just a blend of various carrier oils. Carrier oils are nourishing and wonderful, but they are passive when it comes to results.
On the other hand, oil serums deliver concentrated, oil-soluble, active ingredients, just like traditional serums, but in an oil base.
An oil serum differs from a traditional serum based on how it is formulated.
While traditional serums are water-based (and may or may not integrate oils with an emulsifier), oil serums are oils and do not contain water.
The lipid content of oil serums allows for a different absorption route, interacting with the skin's lipid layer for deeper penetration of oil-soluble active ingredients.
There is no specific disadvantage to using a serum that contains water, emulsifiers and preservatives. It will be effective and safe if formulated correctly.
With that said, oil serums are preferred by many shoppers. Face oils are generally simpler and closer to nature. Oil serums are also better able to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin where the active ingredients can get more work done.
Choosing an oil serum over a traditional emulsified serum will have many benefits for people with all skin types. You would expect a smooth, silky skin feeling. Oil serums have many antioxidant properties to fight free radicals and inflammation.
One significant benefit of oil serums over traditional serums is their ability to deeply moisturize and nourish the skin, thanks to their lipid content. They are particularly beneficial for dry skin types as they replenish the skin's natural oil content and prevent trans-epidermal water loss. Furthermore, oil serums can better deliver oil-soluble vitamins and active ingredients through enhanced penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.
If your shopping preferences include staying as close to nature as possible, then oil serums are going to be a better choice for you because they can remain free from things like emulsifiers, geling and thickening agents (which are often microplastics), and preservatives.
Despite their benefits, oil serums have some potential drawbacks. People with oily or acne-prone skin might find oil serums for face products too heavy or occlusive.
It's also important to note that, while traditional serums can be 100% oil-free or contain oil with emulsifiers, oil serums cannot contain water-soluble ingredients, so there are some limitations as to what actives can be used.
Choosing between a traditional serum and an oil serum comes down to your specific skin needs and preferences. If your primary goal is to deliver potent, water-soluble active ingredients like niacinamide or peptides, a traditional serum might be more beneficial.
On the other hand, if you seek deep nourishment and hydration alongside the delivery of oil-soluble actives, an oil serum could be your ideal choice.
In some instances, like with ingredients such as Bakuchiol or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (oil-soluble Vitamin C), the activity level and penetration is better when used in an oil-based format.
Lastly, if your focus is mainly on skin protection and remaining as close to nature as possible, simple facial oils could suffice.
Always consider your skin type, sensitivity, and specific skin concerns when making your decision.
If you're shopping for oil serums, check out bareLUXE Skincare's award-winning Bakuchiol Serum or our Vitamin C Oil for targeted results in an oil-based delivery system.
References:
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We're all on a quest to find the perfect skincare routine that suits our skin type and aligns with our values and preferences. Amongst the available options, organic face oils have claimed their spot as an essential beauty item for many individuals.
But the question remains: are these elixirs worth the extra hype they receive?
In my experience as an expert in face oils, I'll lay my biases on the line now: I prefer organic ingredients and always choose them over their non-organic counterparts when available. However, in the quest to produce effective, results-based skincare products, I've decided not to "chase" a label.
What I mean by this is that I'm not willing to drop the percentages of active ingredients in my formulas just to meet rigid (and costly) certification standards like 100% or 95% organic ingredients.
Some of the best, most potent, active botanicals can never be certified organic because of the science and manufacturing processes needed to make them - I'm not willing to pass on using them to ensure I can use a "certified organic" logo on my packaging.
Organic carrier oils are sourced from certified organic farms that use specific techniques and meet set criteria. Organic certification is a rigorous process that ensures the plants are grown and the oil is processed without using particular types of chemicals or banned methods.
The benefits of organic carrier oils depend on the specific oil. They may generally be higher in antioxidants and other beneficial compounds. They are also not subjected to different processes like bleaching and refinement, which may protect the delicate phytochemicals from degradation.
These benefits are difficult to prove conclusively, but there is some scientific data to support increased antioxidant and phenolic capacity in foods that are farmed by organic standards.
There is sometimes an image of natural skincare with fields of flowers and plants handpicked for their powerful properties. This romantic image can be true, especially regarding the farm-to-face movement. Some luxury and niche natural brands are able to literally farm and produce their own carrier oils.
This is the ultimate in supply chain management and freshness!
Imagine being able to grow a field of lavender flowers and produce your own lavender oil for your own products.
Unfortunately, this isn't a reality for most skincare brands or products for obvious reasons. Most carrier oils are mass-produced. The critical difference lies in the farming practices used.
Organic certification sets a high standard for production methods.
The USDA and CFIA are the primary certifiers in North America. Rules and regulations are precise and include things like being unable to use specific pesticides or fertilizers on the field for a minimum of 3 years, living conditions for animals, genetic engineering and modification not being permitted, and explicit handling practices (i.e. no irradiation), and others.
As a science-minded formulator who values both efficacy and sustainability, weighing all aspects of decision-making regarding ingredients is essential.
First and foremost, when you consider any carrier oil, all of them are natural. Deciding between organic and non-organic has nothing to do with the distinction between natural skincare products and chemical or synthetic ingredients.
Rosehip seed oil and organic rosehip seed oil are essentially identical. The nuances lay within the specific phytochemical compounds that can be detected and measured and have beneficial effects when applied to your skin.
The distinction between these two types of natural face oils lies primarily in how they are produced and processed – factors that ultimately impact their quality and potential benefits.
Organic oils are derived from plants grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). Thus, by choosing organic face oils over non-organic alternatives, we may provide our skin with a richer array of beneficial compounds that work synergistically to nourish and protect our complexion.
Another potential benefit is the differing level of care and attention paid to oil production in general. To maintain organic certification, farmers must adhere to rigid standards that are reviewed and enforced.
This sets the bar higher.
This level of accountability ensures a brand invests in high-quality materials backed by ethical practices while fostering trust between consumers and manufacturers alike.
Green beauty and clean beauty are skincare movements that focus on ingredient origin, sustainability, and the potential effects on the health and wellness of the users. Unfortunately, media hype, inaccurate information, anti-science messaging, and fear-based marketing are prevalent in the industry.
The primary disadvantage to choosing organic over non-organic is the cost to the consumer. Rigid certification practices and maintenance of certification are expensive, so producers pass that on to consumers. However, if budget is a consideration, many excellent options will work wonders for your complexion - organic or not.
Consumer preferences matter a lot in this area. For example, some people would rather have 100% organic ingredients, regardless if there's a trade-off with results. Others prioritize stability and proven results above all else.
By carefully examining each product's formulation alongside its claims, consumers can make informed decisions about what best suits their unique needs – ensuring optimal outcomes for their skin's health while remaining true to their core values.
Taking the rosehip seed oil example from above, I checked my favourite supplier. Their non-organic, cosmetic-grade rosehip seed oil is $75/kg and available in stock. The organic version is $190/kg and is out of stock. That is a 2.5x price difference plus a supply chain issue.
Digging deeper, both products have plenty of information available to confirm their authenticity - safety data sheet, certificate of compositional analysis, country of origin, etc. They also have nearly identical fatty acid profiles.
If you took these two oils and did a test 50:50 on your face (organic on one side and non-organic on the other side), it is doubtful that you will notice a difference.
Bottom line: There is a clear difference in production, but if cost is a factor for you, don't think that using non-organic face oils is suddenly going to be harmful or ineffective. Potential advantages exist, but it isn't very likely the impact on an individual basis is genuinely significant.
Not all products claiming to be 'organic' truly adhere to the strict standards set by regulatory bodies.
The USDA has stringent certification standards for cosmetics requiring at least 95% of the product's agricultural ingredients to be organically produced to bear their logo on the packaging. Additionally, the word organic can be used on the primary display panel of the packaging. Anything less than 95% and the labelling requirements get very specific.
By familiarizing yourself with these guidelines and maintaining skepticism towards ambiguous claims on labels, you can ensure that your pursuit in selecting high-quality organic face oils is well-informed and successful.
There are many certification organizations, some with more or less rigid certification, monitoring, and maintenance requirements. USDA organic is the gold standard that sets the stage for others. Many other important organizations, like ECOCERT, also exist.
The certification process for organic labelling can be expensive and time-consuming. This can be difficult for small businesses, especially if the return on investment is low.
A second issue, which is more important from my perspective, is the inability to tailor your product formulation specifically if you want to use certain active ingredients at specific percentages.
If an organic version of a particular ingredient is not available, then the brand would need to make a decision to either change ingredients or just go without the certification.
An example is squalane which can be made from organic base materials, but the final product won't bear the certified organic logo because it doesn't officially meet the criteria (due to the way squalane is fractionated, processed, and hydrogenated). That means if you want to make an organic facial oil that contains squalane, you'd have to be sure not to exceed 5%.
Similarly, Bakuchiol is an excellent active ingredient that won't be able to be certified due to the production processes necessary to create it. Many other ingredients fit this designation, so if you limit your formula to a maximum of 5% non-organic ingredients, you could easily limit the effectiveness of your product - all to be awarded the use of a logo.
In the skincare world, this is known as "label appeal" - adding or subtracting ingredients in order to achieve a specific "look" to a label.
I recommend looking for certifications from reputable organizations such as USDA Organic or ECOCERT. However, keep in mind that some brands may choose not to obtain these logos due to cost constraints while still maintaining high-quality standards.
Be cautious of buzzwords like 'natural' or 'eco-friendly,' which can be misleading; focus on transparency, ethical sourcing practices, and third-party evaluations.
Brands that list specific percentages (i.e. 86% organic ingredients) are being transparent and likely choose to use as many as possible without compromising the effectiveness or percentages of their more active ingredients.
Don't hesitate to contact the company directly if you have questions about their ingredients or processes – a truly committed brand will be more than happy to address your concerns and help you achieve skin mastery through informed choices.
Organically farmed ingredients are less refined and may contain more phytochemicals and antioxidants. Choosing organically certified ingredients is certainly my preference, as is using them on my own skin.
Is it worth the hype to seek out specific, rigorous organic certification? That depends on the goal of the product.
If the product is designed for consumers who choose only the most natural ingredients, even at the cost of reduced effectiveness, then going through the rigorous certification steps makes sense for the brand.
However, if the maximization of active ingredients and specific additives that can never be available in an organic form is the goal, then forgoing the certification and maximizing the balance between ingredient origin and effectiveness makes much more sense.
Ultimately, finding the right balance between organic ingredients and overall formula effectiveness should be the primary goal when choosing facial oils.
Read more about getting started in the world of face oils with our comprehensive beginners guide to Face Oil.
References
Cruz-Carrión Á, Ruiz de Azua MJ, Muguerza B, Mulero M, Bravo FI, Arola-Arnal A, Suarez M. Organic vs. Non-Organic Plant-Based Foods-A Comparative Study on Phenolic Content and Antioxidant Capacity. Plants (Basel). 2023 Jan 1;12(1):183.
Katidi A, Pavlopoulou A, Vlassopoulos A, Kapsokefalou M. The Nutritional Composition of Natural and Organic Branded Food Products: A Cross-Sectional Analysis of the Greek Foodscape. Nutrients. 2022 Feb 14;14(4):808.
López-Yerena A, Lozano-Castellón J, Olmo-Cunillera A, Tresserra-Rimbau A, Quifer-Rada P, Jiménez B, Pérez M, Vallverdú-Queralt A. Effects of Organic and Conventional Growing Systems on the Phenolic Profile of Extra-Virgin Olive Oil. Molecules. 2019 May 23;24(10):1986.
Rahman SME, Mele MA, Lee YT, Islam MZ. Consumer Preference, Quality, and Safety of Organic and Conventional Fresh Fruits, Vegetables, and Cereals. Foods. 2021 Jan 6;10(1):105.
Urban K, Giesey R, Delost G. A Guide to Informed Skincare: The Meaning of Clean, Natural, Organic, Vegan, and Cruelty-Free. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022 Sep 1;21(9):1012-1013.
Dini I, Laneri S. The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations. Molecules. 2021 Jun 26;26(13):3921.
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